Washing and Drying induced swirl marks

1fastTbird

1fastTbird

New member
Joined
May 23, 2013
Messages
199
Reaction score
0
OK. So I have done everything possible to prevent adding microfine scratches into my paint's surface and I cannot figure out how to prevent them. The vehicle is a torch red 2006 Ford Mustang.

I am using the two bucket method with grit guards and using a quality soap (XMT Gel Shampoo or Meguiars Gold Class) in the wash bucket with one ounce of ONR added to both buckets. I use two microfiber chenille wash mitts (one for higher panels, the other for lower,) Cobra Guzzler to dry. I wash all mitts, towels, etc throughly after each use.

When I use a spray wax after the wash, I use only new or like new, quality clean microfiber to apply and buff, and wash those separately after each use as well.

I cannot keep the paint free of new swirls/fine scratches. It seems like every time I touch the paint, I am adding new scratches. I do wash every other week or so as the car is a daily driver, but it is garaged when it is at home. I am note sure if it matters, but I use Wolfgang TSR, FG, and DGPS 3.0 as the polish/protection. Thanks to the recent sale, going forward I will top with DP Max Wax.


Do I just have to accept the fact that a frequently washed DD will only look "so" good and swirls are inevitable with bright red paint?
 
I think what you have is soft paint.

Have you thought about blow drying the car?

Also have you thought about adding a foam gun and use it for a pre soak to life away any loose heavy dirt prior to using your nuts in the car?
 
Yes, I have thought about both steps; I just wasn't certain that they were necessary. I guess if I am seeking swirl free paint, then I do need to take the extra time and process on my end to allow the paint the best chance of looking good.
 
I don't think it's feasible to keep a car clean and not add any scratches. Especially on a daily driver, even paint corrected vehicles to 90% or so often need a polish once a year or so, granted a finishing polish will usually do the trick.
 
Get a cr spotless and you dont have to worry about drying or touching your paint.
Or some carpro hydro

When I didnt have those 2 I used cg wolly mammoth or carpro dry me crazy mf drying towels

Sent from my SCH-I605 using AG Online
 
Tell me about it

I have a Honda and love and hate washing it

Seems like whatever is done there are a couple more swirls. I almost have to use the carpro wash mitt and blow dry it because the mf wash mitt and guzzler aren't soft enough
 
the only want to not get swirl marks is not touch it at all. which is impossible, so having a few swirls doesn't really bother me. since i detail it every year anyway.
 
Paint correct the whole car, then opti coat 2.0 it. Or use a blower, problem solved. Like the others said it's just your paint.
 
I think it is a unreal expectation on a DD.

That's the main reason I didn't do a 100% correction. The clear gets thinner every time.
 
I hear your pain.
I have issues with my black SS paint RAV , same as you. No matter what I do I get swirls.
All I do now Is do the best that I can and hope for the best.
I can't polish every three months so I just try and hide them with a glaze, if I see too many I buff it using m205 using a white pad.
Like you with a dark color just using a leaf blower isn't enough, it leave water streak and spots.
So I use the blower, let the car sit while then when mostly dry I use a QD and a soft towel, it's all I can do.
Suck I know.
 
MajinAl said:
Get a cr spotless and you dont have to worry about drying or touching your paint.
Or some carpro hydro

When I didnt have those 2 I used cg wolly mammoth or carpro dry me crazy mf drying towels

Sent from my SCH-I605 using AG Online
Click to expand...

Even with a CR Spotless you letting it air dry is risky because as the water hits the paint it picks up contaminants and dirt and can still water spot.

Gsrjake said:
Paint correct the whole car, then opti coat 2.0 it. Or use a blower, problem solved. Like the others said it's just your paint.
Click to expand...

Even with opti-coat it will still scratch, and washing it can still induce it, keeping a 100% swirl free finish is only possible if you don't touch your car and sit it in a car bubble or something crazy.
 
You have don't a lot, but there is some additional things that could be done/':

1. Polish to perfection and use OptiCoat.

2. Despite what's been said about the CR Spotless, my experience is that the paint dries nearly perfect and spot free. Glass can get some very easy to remove spots, but I think that's from the wash with regular water. I highly recommend a CR Spotless. I minimizes "paint touching"

3. Air Force or Master Blaster: will dry all the water in the cracks and the wheels, and can be used for touch free drying of paint.

4. Foam, dwell, rinse with a pressure washer. A hose won't cut it. Pressure washing removed visible dirt hose rinsing won't touch. Rinsing with a pressure washer after foaming removes almost all the dirt from the paint. I think this is the single most important thing you can do. You can even go a step further and coat the panel with a blanket of foam right before you touch it.

5. Switch shampoos. While the shampoos you listed are OK, I would switch to something a little heartier like Duragloss, Optimum, or Sonax.

I guess it can be as involved as your willing to get.
 
Thank you for your responses. I am going to pickup a foam gun next Spring. A pressure washer isn't in the cards, so I'll keep working on technique. I have a number of blowers and I'll start using air to do a majority of the drying as well.

Perhaps the best part is the empathy. For some reason misery loves company, haha.
 
A foam gun will help, however, I believe that the single most important step is a power washer. I know it sucks hearing that, I felt the same way until I decided to bite the bullet on a cheap electric one in search of paint perfection.

Foaming and pressure washing before your wash blows off 90-95% of the stuff that causes wash induced marring. All you're left with is a thin dirt film that a carpro merino wool mitt can easily take care of.

When drying, the least amount of touching possible is key. A cheap leaf blower, blot the water dry, then if you have the means, purchase a metro sidekick, around the car once more while blotting dry, and swirl free paint every time.

Of course you're going to get a wash induced swirl or scratch every now and then, that's life. This will just keep it looking good as long as possible.
 
Ryry11 said:
A foam gun will help, however, I believe that the single most important step is a power washer. I know it sucks hearing that, I felt the same way until I decided to bite the bullet on a cheap electric one in search of paint perfection.

Foaming and pressure washing before your wash blows off 90-95% of the stuff that causes wash induced marring. All you're left with is a thin dirt film that a carpro merino wool mitt can easily take care of.

When drying, the least amount of touching possible is key. A cheap leaf blower, blot the water dry, then if you have the means, purchase a metro sidekick, around the car once more while blotting dry, and swirl free paint every time.

Of course you're going to get a wash induced swirl or scratch every now and then, that's life. This will just keep it looking good as long as possible.
Click to expand...

Which pressure washer do you have and what kind of reliability/price does it have?
 
af90 said:
Which pressure washer do you have and what kind of reliability/price does it have?
Click to expand...

I have a black max 1700 psi from Sams club. It's electric, $139 out the door, does everything I need it to do.
 
af90 said:
Even with a CR Spotless you letting it air dry is risky because as the water hits the paint it picks up contaminants and dirt and can still water spot.
Click to expand...
If thats the case you can use a blower to help dry it. I have a side kick and my shop vac it to blow off excessive water.


Sent from my SCH-I605 using AG Online
 
Gsrjake said:
Paint correct the whole car, then opti coat 2.0 it. Or use a blower, problem solved. Like the others said it's just your paint.
Click to expand...

This exactly.... my other thought is try to use multiple FRESH CLEAN microfiber towels. As in one towel per panel, wash/wipe in straight lines and never use one side more than once. If you can't dry with a blower then dry with the same technique and use lots of detail spray as a barrier between the paint and MF towel. Don't ever use circular motions in the wash or drying process. And I think there is now an opticoat 3.0 on the street now. Either way, once you get the paint as corrected as possible, Opti should go a long way in preventing further scratches.
 
swanicyouth said:
You have don't a lot, but there is some additional things that could be done/':

1. Polish to perfection and use OptiCoat.

2. Despite what's been said about the CR Spotless, my experience is that the paint dries nearly perfect and spot free. Glass can get some very easy to remove spots, but I think that's from the wash with regular water. I highly recommend a CR Spotless. I minimizes "paint touching"

3. Air Force or Master Blaster: will dry all the water in the cracks and the wheels, and can be used for touch free drying of paint.

4. Foam, dwell, rinse with a pressure washer. A hose won't cut it. Pressure washing removed visible dirt hose rinsing won't touch. Rinsing with a pressure washer after foaming removes almost all the dirt from the paint. I think this is the single most important thing you can do. You can even go a step further and coat the panel with a blanket of foam right before you touch it.

5. Switch shampoos. While the shampoos you listed are OK, I would switch to something a little heartier like Duragloss, Optimum, or Sonax.

I guess it can be as involved as your willing to get.
Click to expand...

+1

MTM Foam lance, Pressure Washer, and a Master Blaster.
 
Yep, soft paint it is. :rolleyes:
The red on my G35 is so freaking soft you look at it funny and it swirls! :(

As has been said already;
  • blow dry - this is your single best improvement
  • foam gun FOR SURE (look up Butchers Foam Gun, same thing but half the price) This is the next best improvement
  • change soap/shampoo for better lubricity (and cleaning power) CG Honeydew, Megs D111 Shampoo Plus - D110 Hyper Wash, Duragloss 901/902
  • don't use waffle weave to dry
  • use drying agent/wax/sealant like DG951 or Megs D156 and a SOFT MF Towel for what little water is left
  • possibly OC or CQuartz - it will scratch too but better it than your paint
  • And yes, a DD is by default going to get swirls, especially when washed weekly
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top