Washing/Detailing a Classic Car

[HAMBO]

Hi everyone,

Recently became the owner of a 1st gen Camaro (1967 SS/RS Convertible). Wanted to get peoples' input on two questions re: washing and detailing.

1) For regular maintenance washing, I saw Mike's great write up (link below) about using waterless wash rather than a 'regular' or 2bm wash to avoid rust problems. Seems like good advice, but normally I have only done waterless washing when the car has just a bit of dust on it. Just checking whether Waterless is always the best route to go when cleaning a classic?

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...illips/66215-how-wash-classic-muscle-car.html

2) The paint on the car now appears to be a two-stage paint, but has not been taken very good care of. Lots of swirls / waterspots to take out. Unfortunately I don't have a paint thickness gauge, so I'm a bit nervous to just break out the PC and start correcting. Other than for buying a paint thickness gauge (which I don't think I would ever use outside this specific application), any other tips, tricks or methods to determine whether there is enough clear coat left on the car to give it a good polish?

Thanks (and pic below)!

 

[2black1s]

The way I see it is like this...

If the defects in the paint are more than you can live with, then by all means polish to remove them. If they can't be removed by polishing, or if during the polishing you happen to go through the clear coat (which in most cases is highly unlikely), then you needed a new paint job anyway.

On one hand I understand the science and limitations behind these detailing tasks, but on the other hand I think many of us tend to overthink the process.

Bottom line - If the car needs polishing, polish it.

 

[Audios S6]

If the paint has substantial contamination, you may consider a rinseless wash in lieu of a waterless wash. If it's really rough, then a singe, careful traditional wash may be necessary.

Depending on where you are located, you may be able to find a member nearby that could help you measure the paint thickness.

If it's been resprayed, then there is a good chance you have some paint to work with. But even with a PTG, there will be some guessing as it's all but impossible to know what was done before and if the panels were taken down to bare metal and sprayed or if they were simply scuffed and sprayed.

 

[GSKR]

you won't remove a substantial amount of paint with a PC.Do some test spots on the hood or trunk and tape off any high body lines.Is it base coat clear or single stage.Need to know that for product choice and pads.

 

[GSKR]

Advanced pinnacle swirl remover followed by the pinnacle polish and sovereign liquid or paste would make that really pop.

 

[BillyJack]

First of all, very cool ride! It doesn't get any better in first gen Camaros than a RS/SS convertible!
I'm a disciple of Mike's teachings, as his advice brought my "survivor" El Camino from a faded mess to a trophy getter.
From experience, I do disagree a bit with his washing philosophy on classic cars. I do understand the principle-to avoid water penetration into all the areas you can't blow or wipe dry, but I'm confident enough in my rinseless technique that I have no fears about doing a rinseless wash, unless the car will not be driven at all.
I favor a Meguiar's or Blackfire MF mitt, squeezing it a bit so there's very little dripping, then taking two passes with each side, reversing direction so that both leading edges catch any dirt. I then shake it vigorously in the bucket to release the dirt. I then follow with a plush MF to absorb and break up any accumulation of solution and act as "insurance" for any missed spots, as this one's always damp, getting wrung out after each panel. Finally comes either a pass with a drying towel, or application of a spray wax drying aid.
When I'm all done, I've used about a quart of solution and have a damp mitt and two damp towels remaining, so how much was really left on the car to seep into the nooks and crannies? Again, this is for a garage queen that gets driven about 500 to 1,000 miles yearly. If it was a situation where the car never moves, I'd agree with Mike completely and go all waterless. But I've been following this routine for about 8 years now, since I first discovered ONR here and see no indications of harm due to rinseless washing.

Bill

 

[dcjredline]

So are you not believing Mike and his article hence asking us what we think about WW/RW? Id say Mike knows more than any 6 of us put together so why question it? To answer your question YES I wouldnt put water from a hose all over my 67 Camaro if I didnt have to. WW/RW would be the best as Mike has said.

 

[HAMBO]

So are you not believing Mike and his article hence asking us what we think about WW/RW? Id say Mike knows more than any 6 of us put together so why question it? To answer your question YES I wouldnt put water from a hose all over my 67 Camaro if I didnt have to. WW/RW would be the best as Mike has said.

Sorry, I should have clarified. Mike's advice is of course solid and based on more experience than any of us, and I have been following it. That article is however about 4-5 years old, and with all the new washing innovations that have been brought to market since then I was wondering whether there is a different approach / answer now.

 

[HAMBO]

First of all, very cool ride! It doesn't get any better in first gen Camaros than a RS/SS convertible!
I'm a disciple of Mike's teachings, as his advice brought my "survivor" El Camino from a faded mess to a trophy getter.
From experience, I do disagree a bit with his washing philosophy on classic cars. I do understand the principle-to avoid water penetration into all the areas you can't blow or wipe dry, but I'm confident enough in my rinseless technique that I have no fears about doing a rinseless wash, unless the car will not be driven at all.
I favor a Meguiar's or Blackfire MF mitt, squeezing it a bit so there's very little dripping, then taking two passes with each side, reversing direction so that both leading edges catch any dirt. I then shake it vigorously in the bucket to release the dirt. I then follow with a plush MF to absorb and break up any accumulation of solution and act as "insurance" for any missed spots, as this one's always damp, getting wrung out after each panel. Finally comes either a pass with a drying towel, or application of a spray wax drying aid.
When I'm all done, I've used about a quart of solution and have a damp mitt and two damp towels remaining, so how much was really left on the car to seep into the nooks and crannies? Again, this is for a garage queen that gets driven about 500 to 1,000 miles yearly. If it was a situation where the car never moves, I'd agree with Mike completely and go all waterless. But I've been following this routine for about 8 years now, since I first discovered ONR here and see no indications of harm due to rinseless washing.

Bill

Thanks! I was also considering the occasional rinseless for when things do get messy. I don't have a covered garage. I store the car nearby in a covered garage but take it out on the occasional weekend so it will spend a day or two outside getting some stuff on it that I wouldn't normally use a WW product for.