Just a question on washing old cars. I have a 1980 camaro that is all original, I bought it off my uncle who has always washed it with soap and water using the hose. I read an article that was written by mike and he recommended using a waterless wash on old cars so your not introducing water which could lead to rust. Do most of you guys use waterless washes on your car? What's the best product out there I have seen the pinnacle with the carnauba wax in it. Is there a difference between waterless wash and rinseless wash? I do have some optimum no rinse wash that I have used on the car with just mixing it in a bucket with water and soaking the microfiber towels and then wiping down the panels and drying with my weave towel. I am just looking for something safe for the car and would like to prevent scratches, the car is never really dirty since I only drive it on nice days, just some bugs on the front and some light dust. What do you guys with older cars recommend? Thanks
Washing Old Cars
- Thread starter Corey06
- Start date
ronkh57
New member
- Aug 20, 2009
- 3,392
- 0
Sorry, this is a tougher question........
I normally use my *judgement*.
Lets wait till Mike P chimes in.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
Correct.
It is a professional courtesy and a sign of respect to avoid introducing lots of water, running water into antiques, classics and custom cars.
Anyone that has ever restored a car or customized a classic car or muscle car knows that in most cases, the most expensive part of the build can be removing rusted body panels and floors and replacing them with new sheetmetal. It's also very time consuming. So the right thing to do is not be the source of the problem for other people and their cars.
If you watched season 1 or season 2 of our TV show you'll see that we worked on a LOT of very high end cars, often inside museums, man caves and collections and not only can we NOT drag a water hose and bucket into these venues to wash the cars they were of the type of cars you simply don't wash. You use a waterless wash.
Yes.
I personally prefer a waterless wash as compared to a rinseless wash but that's because I don't like the water mess on the floor when doing the vertical sides and I can avoid this using a waterless wash.
The options you listed are all good options.
I'm not a fan of putting any type of wax in a waterless wash simply because normally when I'm using a waterless wash it's to clean a car BEFORE I machine polish it and thus a wax in the wash is a waste of time and of no use.
There should be two types of waterless washes and rinseless washes,
1: Products for prep washing
2: Products for maintenance washing
Make sense?
I use the Pinnacle Waterless Wash with Carnauba a lot even though I would prefer it didn't have the Carnauba but it really doesn't seem to have any negative affect, I just don't need it.
Griot's makes a great spray wash as does most recognized brands in the industry with the originator of this category being Optimum Polymer Technologies.
Watch this video, it covers everything related to washing a car and I think it will answer most if not all your questions...
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
These all came out very well.
Mature videos, no crap or zaniness', no goofing off, just pure straight information to help you do things right the first time.
9 Video Playlist - New Autogeek Car Detailing How-To Videos
Everything from inside and outside, top to bottom and A to Z
Mature videos, no crap or zaniness', no goofing off, just pure straight information to help you do things right the first time.
9 Video Playlist - New Autogeek Car Detailing How-To Videos
Everything from inside and outside, top to bottom and A to Z
- Thread starter
- #7
Mike I have a couple quick questions for you. I read your thread about polishing an old car with single stage paint, its a very good write up. I would assume my car has a single stage paint since I know that paint is original. I think the paint is in pretty good shape still I have no idea how thick it is or anything, but it doesn't really look oxidized. I just don't know how I should go about doing any paint correction, I do have a porter cable but have never used it, do have a few different pads but not sure which to use with which product. I picked up a couple bottles of the #7 glaze so I was going to wash the car, clay bar it and then put #7 glaze on and let it sit for 24 hours and then buff off. The car is white so its hard to really see swirl marks unless its in the right light but it doesn't look bad, would I be best to just apply a wax after the #7 or is there a super safe way to correct the paint without having to fear burning through since I don't know how much good paint is really left since its original 1980 paint? Also on the front bumper and the rear spoiler they are plastic and I have noticed the paint has like little weird lines in it almost looks like fine cracks, would this be a spot I would want to avoid touching as it could make things worse? Also when applying the #7 glaze is it safe to put on the decals or should I also avoid those? I don't know if its worth trying to do any paint corrections, maybe just wash clay bar use the glaze and apply some wax.