Water activated Spray sealants

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SixZee

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Hello folks,

I have Klasse twins applied to the car. I perform rinseless washes with Wolfgang Uber once in 2 weeks and spray on Klasse Act's Frankendetailer (1oz sealant - 3 oz rinseless wash in a gallon of water). So far, it seems to be working out. I could be wrong but the car does attract a lot of dust, otherwise seems fine.

I am prepping for winter. Since I can't function outside in cold, I must be done with all detailing by the end of Oct.

I have been looking water activated spray sealants to top off Klasse twins I have on the car. I found, there is 303 Sealant and Prima Hydro Seal Paint Sealant. Is there anything else that I have not noticed? What experiences folks have with these, with regards to durability?

Thanks in advance.
 
SixZee said:
Hello folks,

I have Klasse twins applied to the car. I perform rinseless washes with Wolfgang Uber once in 2 weeks and spray on Klasse Act's Frankendetailer (1oz sealant - 3 oz rinseless wash in a gallon of water). So far, it seems to be working out. I could be wrong but the car does attract a lot of dust, otherwise seems fine.

I am prepping for winter. Since I can't function outside in cold, I must be done with all detailing by the end of Oct.

I have been looking water activated spray sealants to top off Klasse twins I have on the car. I found, there is 303 Sealant and Prima Hydro Seal Paint Sealant. Is there anything else that I have not noticed? What experiences folks have with these, with regards to durability?

Thanks in advance.
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McKees makes a Hydro spray on and so does Car Pro's Hydro2o.
 
I've never used one of these products on the normal painted surfaces, but I've used DP's Hydro Wet Seal on my wheels. It seems to last about two weeks on my wheels depending on weather and how much I've used them. I think the real key to the water activated sealants is their ease of use and not the durability.

The Klasse twins should easily get you six months of durability. If you're worried about making it through the winter I'd hit the car with a more durable spray paint sealant or throw another coat of Klasse SG on it some time in October.
 
Here's my take, with a spray and rinse product you still have to dry the car. So you are really washing, rinsing spraying and drying. It's really no more effort to wash, rinse, dry and then use a spray and wipe sealant. I don't really see any time savings, just different steps.
 
DUBL0WS6 said:
Here's my take, with a spray and rinse product you still have to dry the car. So you are really washing, rinsing spraying and drying. It's really no more effort to wash, rinse, dry and then use a spray and wipe sealant. I don't really see any time savings, just different steps.
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I normally take the same stance as you with these types of products, it’s an added step in a way and doesn’t really seem to speed up the overall process. Great for wheels though as they quickly seal up all the nooks and crannies and keep things pretty clean for a month or two.

I’m assuming most of us will use a drying aid or maybe blow the water off if we have, A)some form of LSP we’re looking to boost and is B) hydrophobic enough to either “flood dry” the car or blow it off.

There is one caveat to them though and I’m glad I brought my Gyeon WetCoat with me today. I was working on a minivan that had ZERO protection and of course that equals large pools of water that stick to the surface, horizontal and even vertical.

I needed to speed up the overall process because time is money and trying to dry this much water is a waste of time! Out came the WetCoat and created a slick, hydrophobic protected surface! There was now about a third of the amount of water to dry and all it took was about 5 minutes.

This is the 2 birds 1 stone method I like about products like this, they speed up the wash and wax express details. Especially for a first time customer where there is no LSP to aid us in drying the vehicle.
 
SixZee said:
Hello folks,

I have Klasse twins applied to the car.

I have been looking water activated spray sealants to top off Klasse twins I have on the car. Is there anything else that I have not noticed? What experiences folks have with these, with regards to durability?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Hey SixZee, the Klasse Twins are quite durable, have you used them through a winter yet? How’d they hold up?

To answer your questions though, as has been pointed out they’re more for ease of use and not durability. Most companies say 3 months, but I don’t think I’ve gotten over 6 weeks before the sheeting was all but gone. Nice tight beading is generally gone by a months time.

My concern would be their ability to bond to Klasse. It’s my understanding that most Si02 products and these water activated ones not withstanding, require a more bare/naked surface or to be applied on top of “like products” aka other Si02 products.
 
DMiglio said:
Hey SixZee, the Klasse Twins are quite durable, have you used them through a winter yet? How’d they hold up?
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Yes, I have. This is my second winter. I didn't wash the car at all last winter so I have no idea how long it did the job, but when I washed in May, it was pretty much gone. Maybe it was my technique or prep that was not optimal.
So this year, I read a lot, took advice from Klasse Act, and applied again. I plan to be more diligent this year and try to wash (at least hose it down) at least once a month if not more. Due to my Reynaud's, I just can not function outside very well in the bitter cold. And thats the reason I am looking for such short cuts for the winter.
 
SixZee said:
Yes, I have. This is my second winter. I didn't wash the car at all last winter so I have no idea how long it did the job, but when I washed in May, it was pretty much gone. Maybe it was my technique or prep that was not optimal.
So this year, I read a lot, took advice from Klasse Act, and applied again. I plan to be more diligent this year and try to wash (at least hose it down) at least once a month if not more. Due to my Reynaud's, I just can not function outside very well in the bitter cold. And thats the reason I am looking for such short cuts for the winter.
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Is running the car through a touch-screen every 2 weeks an option When you say you went through an entire winter without washing it at all could explain why it was gone by May, I mean your talking a half a year at that point.

Because of your condition outside washing isn't an option during the winter but a touch free every other week or so should be enough to remove the salt/muck from your cars paint and thus helping along the durability of KSG. Others have suggested, along with myself, to get as many layers as possible on before the weather gets too cold and this helps ALOT

There's nothing wrong with the spray on, hose off products but it needs to be about 60 degrees minimum to apply these or it could get messy. Do you have an option to rent a garage spot hourly in the winter to give it a good wash and apply FD to the car?

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Klasse Act said:
Is running the car through a touch-screen every 2 weeks an option When you say you went through an entire winter without washing it at all could explain why it was gone by May, I mean your talking a half a year at that point.

Because of your condition outside washing isn't an option during the winter but a touch-free every other week or so should be enough to remove the salt/muck from your cars paint and thus helping along the durability of KSG. Others have suggested, along with myself, to get as many layers as possible on before the weather gets too cold and this helps ALOT

There's nothing wrong with the spray on, hose off products but it needs to be about 60 degrees minimum to apply these or it could get messy. Do you have an option to rent a garage spot hourly in the winter to give it a good wash and apply FD to the car?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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Trust me when I say this, there is not a single touchless wash nearby me (Westchester county, NY). Coin-op is about 20 minutes' drive off my way. I have never seen renting a garage spot either. A friend had a garage but he moved last year so I am pretty much stuck (that was the sole reason of not washing as I didn't want to go through scrubby tower).

I wouldn't be able to tell you why it wore off. As I said, my technique probably wasn't optimum. But this year I took great care while application. I 'think' this year's application is far better. As you and other folks suggested, I will apply a couple of coats of KSG before the end of Oct and see how it goes. But thinking of the worst first, I am looking for a backup plan.
 
DUBL0WS6 said:
Here's my take, with a spray and rinse product you still have to dry the car. So you are really washing, rinsing spraying and drying. It's really no more effort to wash, rinse, dry and then use a spray and wipe sealant. I don't really see any time savings, just different steps.
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The only benefit I give to spray and rinse vs spray drying aid is that for folks who are less mobile, bad back or whatever else; the spray and rinse allows protection to get in all the nooks and crannies and a very simple wipe off afterward with no streaking (I’ve not had a streaking problem anyways). With a drying aid I feel there is more possibility of streaking on lower areas if you don’t get down there and dry well. After spray and rinse, the water is already in good beading condition, it should only take a lazy effort to get those final drops off the bottom and you’re not having to work any product until completely dry to avoid the streaks.

Maybe I’m separating the pepper from the fly poo. And I rarely use spray and rinse on paint. But something I would switch back to if my back chronically starts to ache.
 
I have used Sonax Spray and Seal and I like the product. It is definitely easy to use and it lasts for about a month. A negative comment on the product is that it leaves a noticeable film on darker colored vehicles. I only use it on my silver vehicles.
 
I just bought a bottle of 303 Touchless sealant and will apply it before I go to the Dragon, hard water protection

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SixZee said:
Hello folks,

I have Klasse twins applied to the car. I perform rinseless washes with Wolfgang Uber once in 2 weeks and spray on Klasse Act's Frankendetailer (1oz sealant - 3 oz rinseless wash in a gallon of water). So far, it seems to be working out. I could be wrong but the car does attract a lot of dust, otherwise seems fine.

I am prepping for winter. Since I can't function outside in cold, I must be done with all detailing by the end of Oct.

I have been looking water activated spray sealants to top off Klasse twins I have on the car. I found, there is 303 Sealant and Prima Hydro Seal Paint Sealant. Is there anything else that I have not noticed? What experiences folks have with these, with regards to durability?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
I've had a great experience with the 303 Touchless Sealant.

It's what I use on my Emerald (cheapest) Package.

It saves me a ton of time as I can quickly apply it after rinsing the car off.

I think its great protection and a good price as well.

We just had a bunch of rain recently so the Jeep is pretty dirty. I don't know if you can tell but it seems to be holding up pretty good.

I also think it leaves behind a nice shine.

I don't know what conditions you'll be putting your vehicle through but it should last you through the winter in my opinion.

I reccomend a few good sprays on each pannel and rinse upwards so it spreads the product out good.

Then go around the whole car as you rinse and make sure each pannel has the water beading characteristics that you desire.

If you notice a pannel isn't quite up to par add a spray or to the rinse in an upwards direction as described before.

Iike to use the shower setting on my nozzle.

Hope this helps
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Buy the big bottle, it's an even better value

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I have little different take on this, as I mostly do rinseless washes. I use a non-AG water activated spray sealant, and if a client wants a 'wash & wax' this is what they get. I wash the panel, then spray the sealant, spread it with a damp MF towel, and dry the little bit of moisture that is left with a PFM towel.
This goes very quickly, is not really an extra step (my standard is to spritz the panel with detail spray after the damp wipe), and saves a little time since I can dress the trim with this product too.
 
I just finished up my bottle of 303 Touchless Sealant this late morning. Last week I used enough on the rims, beads like crazy and seemingly adds a nice shimmer to the rims too. So today the car just needed a foam and rinse and while wet I hit the rims again and then said "what the heck" and I did the rest of the car too. I had great beading before application so it's just an extra layer of protection which is good because I'm heading down to Tennessee in 11 days for my yearly Tail or the Dragon run.

Now it's been a while since I've used this on my paint and when drying the car the slickness is O M GI know there's alot of these products out there but if you haven't used 303 Touchless Sealant yet, give it a try and you'll be glad you did, I GUARANTEE IT

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