Water Spots in Clear Coat of 2003 Subaru WRX -- method to try and remove?

TROLL

TROLL

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Hey guys, I'm a novice detailer but have been fortunate enough to attend some of Mike Phillip's Thursday night detailing classes at Autogeek so I've learned the basics.
I have a 2003 Subaru WRX and the hood, roof, and trunk have water spots that are actually in the clear coat. Years ago I had a detailer try to get them out without luck, but I had a chance to show it to Mike (a few years back at least) and he said he thought I could still successfully correct the paint. I don't remember what he had recommended (I seem to remember wet sanding but I'm not 100%) so hopefully Mike sees this post, and hopefully some others can chime in with input as well.

I tried my 7424XP with an orange pad and Meguiars M105 tonight and it did not make a substantial difference. This is the most aggressive combo I own currently. Any suggestions on a different approach? Hopefully it is possible to get this out without going all the way through the clear coat.

I have a video uploading to try and show the spots on the hood -- I'll post that here as soon as its online.

Thanks!
Bryan
 
Check OPTIMUM POLYMER TECHNOLOGY...MINERAL DEPOSIT REMOVER.

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thank you -- my water spots are definitely type 2 spots that are etched in the clear. I read the thread you linked to (and the threads that linked to) and it seems like the orange pad and M105 isn't a bad way to go to take a stab at it, I wasn't clear if something more aggressive was recommended if needed or not. In a situation like this does it make sense to go to a pro who can measure the thickness of the clear before I keep going over and over this stuff?

note: the hood is aftermarket and therefore has aftermarket paint, the roof and trunk are factory paint. I hear Subaru factory paint is very soft. The hood will eventually need to be repainted for other reasons, and the roof possibly as well.
 
Ok I just went outside and spent an hour testing some more on the trunk -- it always takes longer the first time but I'm trying to learn the process by testing and checking.
I don't think the trunk looked quite as bad but there are still plenty of water spots there -- I put the PC up to 6 speed and applied more pressure with the orange pad and M105. I did 8 passes and checked and saw an improvement, then I did 4 more passes. They are not all gone, but it a fair bit better. I'm just going to leave it like this for now. I'm happy that its improving and maybe I'll have a pro look at it before I try to go any further.

After the Orange/M105 I went to a Black/M205 and finished the trunk. I have Klasse sealant but came back inside now for breakfast, some AC, and to read the best way to apply this. Figure I'll finish the trunk now and then move on to other panels later since I don't have much more time right now.
 
Another question that I'll try posting here before starting a new thread -- is it realistic to polish an entire car with a 5.5" pad size? I have some tighter areas that I can't seem to access very well. Wondering if it makes sense to get something like a 3" backing plate and pads to use with the same 7424 polisher and if that might help out to get into the few tighter areas.
 
TROLL said:
Another question that I'll try posting here before starting a new thread -- is it realistic to polish an entire car with a 5.5" pad size? I have some tighter areas that I can't seem to access very well. Wondering if it makes sense to get something like a 3" backing plate and pads to use with the same 7424 polisher and if that might help out to get into the few tighter areas.
Click to expand...


There is a saying Mike Phillips uses "rung with what you brung." Is it possible, yes. You have to use some technique, skill, angle and know not to hit the edge of the backing plate on the paint or get spatter and spill. But yes, it's possible.

With that said, there is a tool for every job, 3" backing plates for tight areas, or Rupes iBird Nano for even tighter spots. Or upgrade to a Rupes MKII or G15 and keep your PC with a 3" backing plat so you don't waste time changing plates.
 
Yeah, that makes sense... I just found that on my hood there are some pretty hard raised edges and a small valley between them and I didn't feel comfortable getting in there. Or for example a thin strip under the hood latch of my Wrangler which doesn't allow a 5.5" pad to get in there.

Here's a photo of the hood of my Subaru where with the 2 raised areas and the channel between that lead down to the vent. I just avoided this area for now.

ts006main.jpg
 
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