Water Temp?

[Garb68]

Good day.
As an official “newbee” to this area I’d like to get opinions. What roll does water temp play when doing a Wash? I plan on doing a DP Rinseless wash, Pinnacle Clay Bar, then Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba wax. Should I just use what comes out of the hose? Should I let the water warm up to room temp? Would washing with a warmer water help or hurt? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Zelfiris]

Good day.
As an official “newbee” to this area I’d like to get opinions. What roll does water temp play when doing a Wash? I plan on doing a DP Rinseless wash, Pinnacle Clay Bar, then Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba wax. Should I just use what comes out of the hose? Should I let the water warm up to room temp? Would washing with a warmer water help or hurt? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I like to use room temperature, sometimes luke warm water (or hotter for winter rinseless wash). You won't have any problems using 'cold' water from your hose.

What you should consider is where you are washing your car and applying wax. Try to do it in the shade and out of direct sunlight. You want to be able to wipe off the DP rinseless solution before it dries on your paint

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Warm or even warmer water, (I don't know about "hot" water), definitely can help soften and loosen oily films like road grime.

Think about it this way, if you had been working all day on an old Ford truck removing the start motor, chances are your hands would be stained with black, oily residue that's been accumulating under the car and on the motor for years.

Washing your hands with warm water and a good soap will certainly do a much better job of getting your hands clean than washing your hands with cold water.

When I detailed cars in Oregon during the winter I would fill a wash bucket with warm water but that was mostly to keep my hand from freezing while washing a car in very cold temperatures.

If you're going to do a full correction to the paint then whatever temp the groundwater is for where you're washing the car should be fine. I mean millions if not billions of cars have been washed using ambient temperature water.

I'm a strong proponent of getting a car as clean as possible before a detail session and have documented that on this forum, at the same time after the initial wash, the follow-up procedures are going to take over.

Iron X
Claying
Nanoskin products
Compounding and/or polishing
Using a one-step cleaner/wax

Make sense?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Here's a write-up showing the aggressive approach to washing a car, which I also cover in my how-to book. This is how I like to wash a car before buffing out the paint if the paint has been neglected.

The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car


If washing a car I've already buffed out then I use the gentle approach. That's covered in my book also.

 

[Garb68]

What you should consider is where you are washing your car and applying wax. Try to do it in the shade and out of direct sunlight. You want to be able to wipe off the DP rinseless solution before it dries on your paint

Thank you for your sound advise Zelfiris. I absolutely intend to wash and wax my truck in my garage. I've been reading Mike's Posts and watching his videos, so I'm going to practice what he, and other experts like you, are preaching. Believe me.

 

[Garb68]

Warm or even warmer water, (I don't know about "hot" water), definitely can help soften and loosen oily films like road grime.

Think about it this way, if you had been working all day on an old Ford truck removing the start motor, chances are your hands would be stained with black, oily residue that's been accumulating under the car and on the motor for years.

Washing your hands with warm water and a good soap will certainly do a much better job of getting your hands clean than washing your hands with cold water.

When I detailed cars in Oregon during the winter I would fill a wash bucket with warm water but that was mostly to keep my hand from freezing while washing a car in very cold temperatures.

If you're going to do a full correction to the paint then whatever temp the groundwater is for where you're washing the car should be fine. I mean millions if not billions of cars have been washed using ambient temperature water.

I'm a strong proponent of getting a car as clean as possible before a detail session and have documented that on this forum, at the same time after the initial wash, the follow-up procedures are going to take over.

Iron X
Claying
Nanoskin products
Compounding and/or polishing
Using a one-step cleaner/wax

Make sense?

It all makes perfect sense Mike. And I absolutely appreciate you taking time out of your busy day to answer my question.
Here's what I'll be detailing: