Waterless Car Wash - How to safely clean you car without a hose & bucket

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Waterless Car Wash - How to safely clean you car without a hose & bucket


Washing your car using a hose and bucket is the traditional way to remove the dirt and road grim to get your car clean and shiny. The ability to have running water flushing off loosened dirt along with the soap suds offers lots of lubricity to help prevent any of the dirt or other abrasive particles from potentially scratching the paint.

The problem is that use the traditional method of a water hose and bucket is not always an option for everyone with a dirty car. It's also not the best way to wash a classic car like in the pictures below.


Different types of waterless car washes
Some waterless car washes focus primarily on cleaning while some focus on cleaning while at the same time adding some gloss and protection.

If you're going to detail a car that has been neglected so the paint has swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation, then a good choice for a car in this condition would be a cleaning only waterless car wash as there's no benefit to adding gloss and protection to a car you're getting ready to buff out.

If you've already detailed your car and the exterior in ins excellent condition with a fresh coat of wax, then using a waterless wash that adds gloss and a little protection is a good option as it will work better on paint in this condition.



The key to success
The key to using a waterless car wash successfully is to follow these three tips,

1. Use plenty of product - Plenty of product means lots of lubrication.

2. Use plenty of clean, microfiber towels - Plenty of towels means less chance of cross-contamination. That is by switching to a clean towel often you reduce the potential to rub dirt removed off one panel only to rub it over the next body panel.

3. Use good technique - Good technique is to fold your microfiber towel 4-ways to give you 8 clean sides to wipe with and after making one pass over a section of a panel with one side of the towel, turn to a clean side for the next pass. Continue doing this till you've used up all 8 sides and then switch to a clean fresh towel.


Cleaning classic cars using a waterless wash

As a practice, I never use a hose and bucket to wash a classic or antique car like this restored 1955 Ford Crown Victoria. The reason why is because you don't want to introduce water into places you cannot reach to dry where it can potentially cause rust. Rust is one of the worst types of destruction to classic and antique cars and removing rust can be quite costly. So a good best practice if you detail cars for money is to only use a waterless wash when cleaning restored antique and classic cars.


Using a Waterless Wash with Carnauba to clean a 1955 Ford Crown Victoria
(restored)

I detailed this car in February of 2013, when the car first arrived the paint was filled with swirls and scratches...

Rupes side by side detail - 1955 Crown Victoria

Swirls in the paint

It's been 10 months since I've seen this car and next month it's going up for sale at a classic car auction in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

The owner asked me to spruce it up for the auction to help get the highest price possible. Since I had already buffed this car out and applied a coat of wax, except for being dusty and having some light road grime it was still in great shape.

This is a perfect candidate car for a waterless wash that adds gloss and protection.

Tip: Have plenty of clean, dry plus microfiber towels on hand...

Tip: Fold your microfiber towels 4-ways to give you 8 dedicated sides to wipe with...

Gather the leading edges of the folded microfiber towel and lightly lift them upward as you make a single pass over a section of paint.

Start at the top and work your way down and around the car saving the lowest panels of the car and fender lips for last

Lay down a heavy spray of waterless wash to provide plenty of cleaning agents plus lubrication...

Pinnacle Crystal Shine Waterless Wash can also be used on glass as well as chrome and stainless steel trim.

Save time...
In less time than it would take you to drag out the hose, buckets, wash mitts, drying chamois etc. you can get your car clean while leaving behind a Carnauba wax glossy protected finish.

On Autogeek.net

Pinnacle Liquid Crystal Waterless Wash with Carnauba 32 oz

Pinnacle Liquid Crystal Waterless Wash with Carnauba 64 oz

Pinnacle Liquid Crystal Waterless Wash with Carnauba 128 oz.

Gold Plush Jr. Microfiber Towels 3 Pack

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

How many microfiber polishing cloths do I need to detail my car?


Often times the question comes up,

"How many microfiber polishing cloths do I need to detail my car?"

Usually this is from the perspective of detailing a car, as in a single Saturday detailing session.


I would just interject that another consideration is,

How many microfiber towels to make a SMALL wash load?


It's best to not wash microfiber with other types of materials, including cotton towels or a load of work jeans or t-shirts. So ideally you want to only wash microfiber towels with similar microfiber towels in a dedicated microfiber towel wash load.

Thinking about how many microfibers you need from this perspective, you want enough microfiber polishing cloths to run at least a small load through your washer and dryer.

Something about making a wash and dry load with only 4 items always seems kind of wasteful.

So instead of stocking up on enough microfiber polishing cloths for a single detailing session, stock up on enough microfiber polishing cloths to at a minimum make a small wash load.

How many microfiber towels do you need to clean a car using a waterless car wash?

That depends upon how dirty the car is as well as the size of the vehicle to be cleaned.

A good rule of thumb for an average size car is 12 average size microfiber towels makes for a good small wash load in most washing machines. So use 12 as a target number to shoot for when building up your supply for microfiber polishing towels.

 

[ZeroSP]

Great tips, especially on the number of towels needed. Just have to make sure it is really good cloth like the Gold Plush.

 

[GenesisCoupe]

Nice write up! I actually just washed my Genesis in my works garage and noticed that CG Ecosmart RU is not friendly on windows. Leaves a heavy streak.

 

[Slimsadie]

Great write up. I am always a little scared to waterless wash but have had zero problems. It is actually fun

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Great tips, especially on the number of towels needed. Just have to make sure it is really good cloth like the Gold Plush.

I agree. It's vitally important the you use clean, soft towels when doing a waterless wash.

Nice write up! I actually just washed my Genesis in my works garage and noticed that CG Ecosmart RU is not friendly on windows. Leaves a heavy streak.

Pinnacle Crystal Shine works well on any smooth, hard surface.

Great write up. I am always a little scared to waterless wash but have had zero problems. It is actually fun

I rarely do a traditional wash or a rinseless wash, almost all my washing is waterless washing. Unless I'm going to decontaminate the paint with something like Iron X and then I do a traditional was as the Iron X needs to be rinsed off the car.

 

[swanicyouth]

Nice write up! I actually just washed my Genesis in my works garage and noticed that CG Ecosmart RU is not friendly on windows. Leaves a heavy streak.

Me thinks EcoSmart RTU is best used @ 1:1. There is some mention of this someplace in the CG's universe. My experience with waterless washing is that paint will mar easier and faster if you exclusively do waterless washes. This likely isn't an issue if your polishing the paint afterwards, or the paint is light in color or all jacked up - but on dark/black cars, I have noticed and have since moved away from the practice. I don't think the waterless wash product or technique is what causes this per se, but that fact that your not pre-rinsing abrasives off the paint.

However, as counter productive as it sounds, hosing the grit and abrasive dirt off the paint, followed by using copious amounts of waterless wash to clean the car afterwards is faster than the 2BM with equally good results on non-filth encrusted cars. Using DI water to mix your waterless product and as a final rinse means water spots aren't an issue if your working outside.

Just what I've experienced.

 

[HateSwirls]

A lot of towels?
Do you use the Gerry Dean method?
Seems popular.


Not only do I use a bucket but I also spray the WW unto the paint, it gives me added lube. :dblthumb2:

Give it a try I think you'll love it:dblthumb2:

 

[HateSwirls]

What's the major difference between a WW and RW?
Pretty much same steps.

 

[PiPUK]

Mike,

Much of the time the vehicles which our products are used on are really quite heavild soiled. That means traffic films and often mud whjch, of course, has pretty big abrasive particles. My experience and applying basic scientific ideas tells me that waterless and rinseless washes are a recipe for damage - if you are going to touch the paint, you need those bits of grit away first. Others seem to trawl on. What is your view? Would you still be willing to use waterless on a vehicle with significant levels of particulate soiling?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Mike,

Much of the time the vehicles which our products are used on are really quite heavily soiled. That means traffic films and often mud which, of course, has pretty big abrasive particles.

My experience and applying basic scientific ideas tells me that waterless and rinseless washes are a recipe for damage - if you are going to touch the paint, you need those bits of grit away first.

If you read enough of my posts on this forum I think you'll find I talk about the topic of "touching" paint more than anyone. If fact I almost always talk/type about the idea that anything that "touches" you're car's paint must be of the highest quality you can obtain.

Even talk about "touching"' your paint in my how-to books. The reason why as you understand is because anytime anything touches a delicate, scratch-sensitive clearcoat the POTENTIAL exists for the paint to be scratched.

So "yes" I'm well aware of the issue surrounding the idea of "touching" your car's paint. In fact, wrote a few new articles on this subject just recently.

Others seem to trawl on. What is your view?

Good question. I've expressed my view probably dozens of times but here goes again... For transportation cars, like you're basic new car out in the parking lot, washing is the best option using a traditional car wash approach with running water out of a water hose to flush and even blast loose dirt off a car before washing the car with any other type of media. (wash mitt, sponge, brush).

That said, in any video I've made, class I've taught or article I've written I always start it just like I started this article, not the text in red...

Washing your car using a hose and bucket is the traditional way to remove the dirt and road grim to get your car clean and shiny. The ability to have running water flushing off loosened dirt along with the soap suds offers lots of lubricity to help prevent any of the dirt or other abrasive particles from potentially scratching the paint.

The problem is that using the traditional method of a water hose and bucket is not always an option for everyone with a dirty car.

So "yeah" I understand washing with running water out of a water hose is optimal but what if it's not an option? How else can you get your car clean?


And as it relates to classics, antiques and streetrods here in the U.S.A. I'm try to avoid washing cars with running water because it's a bad idea to introduce water into places you cannot get to in order to dry the car to avoid rust.

As someone that has owned a number of classic car and truck, rust is an issue.

Once a person gets a car restored, assuming they've resolved any "rust issues", then it's my job to not re-introduce a rust issue.

Besides this "best practice" and in my opinion, "professional practice", in most cases that I can remember, for the type of cars I detail they are never ever really dirt because if you look through any of the write-ups for cars I detail they are almost always streetrods, classics and antiques with a few exotics thrown in for good measure.

I don't really like detailing transportation cars. That's just me though. That's not to say I don't do it. In the last month or so I've detailed a number of new cars, new as in brand new or a few years old. So I detail a wide spectrum of cars but my passion is for cars with body styles that endure the test of time. I also prefer cars with chrome and stainless steel trim versus plastic trim.

So in most cases I can get away with a waterless wash AND I practice what I preach, I lay down a LOT of product to hyper-lubricate the surface and use lots of towels. But this doesn't matter for every car because in most cases I'm going to do a major correction to the project car so any light scratches I instill are the least of my worries.

Now AFTER I buff out a car, like the car you see in this article, which I buffed out the first part of 2013, of course I am a lot more careful as I've already removed all the swirls and scratches. I actually pointed all this out in my article.


On the topic of how dirty is too dirty to safely use a rinseless wash or a waterless wash, I wrote this just about 4 years ago...

How dirty is too dirty to safely use a rinseless wash?



This is heavy dirt accumulation
This should be taken to a commercial Do-It-Yourself Car Wash and have the large chunks sprayed off with a strong blast of water.

Would you still be willing to use waterless on a vehicle with significant levels of particulate soiling?

For this hypothetical question and example, do I have access to running water from a water hose?

Or am I in a geographical location where there is no source of running water or there are government restrictions or laws barring me from washing a car using a source of flowing water.

Or am I in a location like a Condo or Apartment where I've signed a contract stating I won't wash my car on location.

Or is it winter and freezing outside and the hose is frozen so I don't have access to running water due to weather.

Or am I traveling and at a hotel or at a car show but there's now water hose to be found.

Or do I live in an area of extreme drought where again, the government or common sense has banned car washing?


I started my article out stating that for some people or some situations, using a water hose and a bucket is NOT always an option. For people in these situation they have two options.

1: Use an alternative method to get the car clean.

2. Leave the car dirty.


Great questions and I'm not being facetious in my answers, just drilling down deep as that is the nature of discussion forums.


:cheers:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

What's the major difference between a WW and RW?
Pretty much same steps.

A waterless wash is where you spray the wash solution onto the car's body panels and then wipe off the residue.

A rinseless wash is where you transfer wash solution from a bucket to the car using some type of wash media.

I prefer using a waterless wash. Kind of shows if read through enough our our Thursday Night projects and/or any car I detail on my own.


Pictures from Autogeek's car of the week projects



FWIW

 

[PiPUK]

This is heavy dirt accumulation
This should be taken to a commercial Do-It-Yourself Car Wash and have the large chunks sprayed off with a strong blast of water.

For this hypothetical question and example, do I have access to running water from a water hose?

Or am I in a geographical location where there is no source of running water or there are government restrictions or laws barring me from washing a car using a source of flowing water.

Or am I in a location like a Condo or Apartment where I've signed a contract stating I won't wash my car on location.

Or is it winter and freezing outside and the hose is frozen so I don't have access to running water due to weather.

Or am I traveling and at a hotel or at a car show but there's now water hose to be found.

Or do I live in an area of extreme drought where again, the government or common sense has banned car washing?


I started my article out stating that for some people or some situations, using a water hose and a bucket is NOT always an option. For people in these situation they have two options.

1: Use an alternative method to get the car clean.

2. Leave the car dirty.


Great questions and I'm not being facetious in my answers, just drilling down deep as that is the nature of discussion forums.


:cheers:

Thanks for your thoughts, Mike.

The picture you posted is surprisingly close to the pictures we often see posted on UK forums!

So, you have a significantly soiled vehicle. It is recent so rust is not a big concern. You can wash it whatever way you like, you have the hose available, waterless/rinseless or whatever. How would you tackle it? Would you feel comfortable if someone was to try the job with waterless/rinseless alone?

All the best

 

[beamerstrumpet]

A waterless wash is where you spray the wash solution onto the car's body panels and then wipe off the residue.

A rinseless wash is where you transfer wash solution from a bucket to the car using some type of wash media.

I prefer using a waterless wash. Kind of shows if read through enough our our Thursday Night projects and/or any car I detail on my own.


Pictures from Autogeek's car of the week projects



FWIW

Mike I have to say that watching your vids and seeing the pictures of what you do, not many of your projects are DD cars and kept out with out a garage. and even if they are, what I see posted are cars that come to you pretty clean. LOLOLOLOL
Its like my comment in the motorcycle section, The vid you did with the guy from S100 was on a bike that looked like it was only ridden in the sun on weekends. I am not knocking this at all, but showing how great the cleaner is on a dusty bike vice one that has been out on a 200 mile day or a full weekend of riding, that is a bike I want to see how quick it can be cleaned. Same with a Car. I do think a lot of us know when to break out a hose and 2 or 3 buckets, I just had to play the devils advocate.
I enjoy learning a lot from you. :xyxthumbs:

 

[Romans5.8]

Ford's Tuxedo Black paint is notoriously soft. I've washed mine using a waterless wash about a dozen times and despite twice now inspecting it carefully, I've been unable to find any micro-marring, scratches or swirls. I'm one of those mythical people without access to a free flowing source of water! So a waterless is a great solution for me, so far.

Like mike I use liberal amounts of product. Especially on heavily soiled areas (like quarter panels). This is a daily driver! First off, small isolated bits of dirt and grit just 'fall off' with the DP waterless wash solution, it's a very effective cleaner. It's also very slick. If I have big chunks of ice, grit, etc., I take it to the coin op. However, generally, if I wash it frequently and don't let the dirt accumulate- I don't need to. In less than the time it takes to drag the hose and buckets out my car is CLEAN and scratch free. On dirtier panels I do let the product 'sit' to break up dirt and grit, and it works.

Here's a video I did for my YouTube channel that I also posted elsewhere on AutoGeek. It's very 'remedial' because it was intended for my YouTube audience (I do motorcycle vlogging) who don't know a swirl from a squirrel, as Mike says. Skip ahead to about the 13 minute mark to watch me wash a soiled panel, and see how clean it comes out without scratches.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYqz6cHlSU0

As I said in my review of the product here on AGO, my technique wasn't perfect as I was trying to hold the camera (my phone) with one hand AND it was well below freezing. However, you get the idea.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks for your thoughts, Mike.

The picture you posted is surprisingly close to the pictures we often see posted on UK forums!

That was my first Monster Truck and that was me that got it stuck. Those are 44" Super Swampers and the mud is up the axles so it was pretty stuck.

So, you have a significantly soiled vehicle. It is recent so rust is not a big concern. You can wash it whatever way you like, you have the hose available, waterless/rinseless or whatever. How would you tackle it?

I would get the vehicle wet with water like it had been sitting in the rain in Oregon for a week. Then blast it with a strong spray of water to knock all the big stuff off and then wash it. If I had a pressure washer I would use it.

Would you feel comfortable if someone was to try the job with waterless/rinseless alone?

All the best

I think if someone tried to was a truck that is really dirt, that is visible dirt on the body panels and a person tries to wipe the dirt off with either a WW or RW then the potential exists for scratching to occur and likely will.


Sometimes you have to do what you have to do and move forward...

 

[Irishwoodchuck]

I have been using the pinnacle waterless wash and love it us it in a spray bottle.
Do have a question though, I am looking for a good water spot remover that I can use as a cleaner on the go in a spray bottle. I have the diamonide treatment on them but weather in the northeast has been a bit ruff so far.

 

[PiPUK]

That was my first Monster Truck and that was me that got it stuck. Those are 44" Super Swampers and the mud is up the axles so it was pretty stuck.





I would get the vehicle wet with water like it had been sitting in the rain in Oregon for a week. Then blast it with a strong spray of water to knock all the big stuff off and then wash it. If I had a pressure washer I would use it.





I think if someone tried to was a truck that is really dirt, that is visible dirt on the body panels and a person tries to wipe the dirt off with either a WW or RW then the potential exists for scratching to occur and likely will.


Sometimes you have to do what you have to do and move forward...

Thanks Mike. I am sure this is of no surprise to many people but you would be shocked how many people in the UK will batter away. In future, I will happily refer these guys over here, I know they have become experts after trying 4 products from one manufacturer, but hopefully your words will go a way to convince them!

 

[Caleb@ImpeccableImage]

Great write up. Thank you Mike!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

In future, I will happily refer these guys over here, I know they have become experts after trying 4 products from one manufacturer, but hopefully your words will go a way to convince them!

Sounds good... we're a friendly forum.... always open to new members from across the pond.


:xyxthumbs: