Wax

hawaiian

Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2011
Messages
58
Reaction score
0
Mike, I have a Toyota 4 Runner, color is silver titanium. Need advice for wax that would have wet look, deep gloss and durability.
 
Nice CaneJeep ! With what products do you maintain the matt black !
 
Depends on what you want to spend. As said above any of the Dodo waxes work great, especially Supernatural. CG E-Zyme Natura and Swissvax Concorso are especially deadly on this color.
 
Silver is not a very finicky color. I prefer to use a wax that makes the metallic pop rather then go for light color dark color car waxes. CG E-Zyme if you can get it (They only make it during the warmer months) You may have to wait a bit to get it directly from them. It's out there. CG 50/50 is a good wax not over the top expensive. I really like P21s on metallics. Do your research and you will find something. The most important things when it comes to making metallics pop is polishing. Then the wax helps it glow, shimmer and protect. You don't have to spend a fortune to get a really good wax.
 
Do your research and you will find something. The most important things when it comes to making metallics pop is polishing. Then the wax helps it glow, shimmer and protect. You don't have to spend a fortune to get a really good wax.

+1 I totally agree. This is important in making any color pop.

If seeking durability and glass like glossiness, perhaps a coating is in order.

For example: CQuartz UK(Silica based and will last up to 2 years with proper maintence ).

picture.php


picture.php
 
Cane jeep great job on your Mustang thank's for photo's.
 
Mike, I have a Toyota 4 Runner, color is silver titanium. Need advice for wax that would have wet look, deep gloss and durability.


The secret to creating a wet look with depth and gloss is to first remove any above surface bonded contaminants, that is things like tree sap mist, overspray, industrial pollution, etc. Next is to remove as many below surface defects as possible, things like swirls and scratches.

Get the paint smooth and defect free. Once you do this any premium quality wax, sealant or coating will take your results over the top...

See this article,

Gloss starts first with a smooth surface...



This is the definition of a high gloss finish!
54Ford50.jpg



:xyxthumbs:
 
Here's something I wrote on making metallic flake POP!!!!!!!!


Making the Metallic Flake Pop! - Popping versus Muting



One of the goals everyone has that owns a car with a metallic finish is to figure out how to make the metalflake pop.

Pop Definition
By the word "pop", people mean make the pretty, reflective shiny flakes in the basecoat easy to see through the clear coat.
Because the majority of all cars with a metallic paint job have a clear coat over them, there's no way to physically affect the actual metallic flakes under the clear layer of paint. So to get the metallic flake to POP you want to do two thing, the first is the most important.
  1. Maximize the clarity of the clear coat
  2. Maximize the smoothness of the clear coat
Maximize the clarity of the clear coat
The way you maximize the clarity of a clear coat finish is you remove as many of the topical and sub-surface defects as possible without compromising or abrading through the clear layer finish.

This is done through a combination of the below,
  • Wetsanding to remove defects and orange peel
  • Compounding to remove deeper below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots
  • Polishing to either refine the results from the compounding step or remove shallow below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots where a true compound isn't needed.
Maximize the smoothness of the clear coat
The way you maximize the smoothness of the clear coat finish is by removing any above surface bonded contaminants as possible and if you have enough paint on the car, then to remove as much orange peel or surface texture like mottling as possible without compromising or abrading through the clear layer finish.

Keep in mind, anytime you wetsand paint, which removes paint, you're then going to have to compound and polish the paint and both of these procedure will also remove paint, so it's vitally important that you are working on a custom paint job or you have the experience, skill and confidence to carefully wetsand a factory finish.

Maximizing the smoothness is done through a combination of the below,
  • Claying the paint or using a product like the Speedy Surface Prep Towel to remove above surface bonded contaminants
  • Wetsanding or dampsanding to remove orange peel, surface texture, mottling
  • Compounding to remove and/or level surface imperfections
  • Polishing to either refine the results from the compounding step or remove shallow below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots where a true compound isn't needed.
Obviously, between the two different goals of maximizing clarity and smoothness there are some overlapping procedures that you can do and which procedures you use will always be determined by the paint itself and your skill level.

Wetsanding paint should be reserved for custom paint jobs where the top coat of clear paint is purposefully sprayed on thicker by the painter because he knows the paint will be wetsanded. Wetsanding can be used by professionals and serious enthusiasts for factory paint jobs if and when the desire is strong enough to overcome the hardness and thinness factors that make sanding factory paint risky.

Besides wetsanding though, the majority of us can safely do the following relatively safely,
  • Claying or using a product like the Speedy Surface Prep Towel to remove above surface bonded contaminants.
  • Compounding.
  • Polishing.
Making the metalflake pop!
Below are the results from the Test Spot I performed to an all original 1968 Firebird Convertible except that it has been repainted with a basecoat/clearcoat finish.

When the car arrived I inspected the paint and documented with video and hi res pictures that the clear layer was in fact filled with swirls and scratches and this was clouding the clear layer hiding the beauty and definition of the metallic flakes in the basecoat.

My Test Spot not only was used to prove my paint polishing system but to also show the owner what the paint could truly look like and in the process make the metallic flake pop.

If you have a metallic or metal flake paint job on your car, truck or suv, you can too can get the metallic finish to pop by evaluating the finish and then doing the practical and safe procedures appropriate to your car's finish and your skill level and maximize the clarity and smoothness of the clear coat.



For this project we used,
Optimum Hyper-Compound
Optimum Hyper-Polish
Optimum Car Wax
Lake Country 5" Hybrid Pads
Lake Country 5.5" Hydro-Tech Pads
Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher
Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher
Porter Cable 7424XP

Any quality compounds, polishes, pads and tools will create the same results.


Test Spot Results

I taped off a section in front of the 400 emblem on the air scoop and then buffed on each side of it.
FirebirdTestSpot001.jpg





Restoring clarity makes the metallic flake pop
The left side is the before side, the right side is the after side. Millions of fine swirls and scratches act to make the top clear layer of paint hazy and opaque, this hides the metallic flake in the basecoat.

FirebirdTestSpot002.jpg




In the below shots you can see by where the overhead florescent lights are reflecting on the paint where the paint is hazy and where the paint is clear.
FirebirdTestSpot003.jpg


FirebirdTestSpot004.jpg


FirebirdTestSpot005.jpg




Here's the high resolution pictures of the hazy, swirled-out paint before we duplicated the process used for the Test Spot.

1968Firebird004.jpg



1968Firebird012.jpg


1968Firebird013.jpg



1968Firebird017.jpg



Here's the high resolution pictures of the paint after we maximized clarity and smoothness. Now the metalflake in the basecoat pops!

1968Firebird018.jpg


1968Firebird025.jpg



1968Firebird021.jpg


1968Firebird033.jpg




So if you want to really make the flake in your car's finish pop, focus on maximizing clarity and smoothness to the top, clear coat layer of paint.

This can be done by hand but it's best done by machine.


You can find the full write-up, process and pictures in the below thread,

Video and Pictures: 1968 Firebird Detailing Class at AutogeekOnline.net


1968Firebird019.jpg



:)
 
Making the Metallic Flake Pop!

Here's another example of making the flake in a metalflake finish pop by maximizing clarity and smoothness...


Before
In these before shots, you can barely see that this is in fact a multi-color metalflake finish.

GoldCoastCorvetteClub020.jpg


GoldCoastCorvetteClub021.jpg


GoldCoastCorvetteClub022.jpg


GoldCoastCorvetteClub023.jpg





After
We put this paint through a claying, machine compounding and polishing process using the Optimum Hyper-Compound and Hyper-Polish like we used on the 1968 Firebird but instead of using Optimum Car Wax for the LSP we used Opti-Coat II

Now the flake POPS!

CanAmCorvette008.jpg


CanAmCorvette009.jpg


CanAmCorvette010.jpg


CanAmCorvette011.jpg


CanAmCorvette012.jpg


CanAmCorvette013.jpg


CanAmCorvette014.jpg





Again, all we did was maximize the clarity and gloss of the clear coat and we were able to make the metallic flake pop.


You can find the entire write-up, process and pictures for this 1977 Can Am Corvette here,

1977 Can Am Corvette - Modeled by Amy and Janna - Pictures and Video!


CanAmCorvette073.jpg
 
Mike, I have a Toyota 4 Runner, color is silver titanium. Need advice for wax that would have wet look, deep gloss and durability.

Great truck, mine is an '08 sport edition same color. I use WGDG sealant with megs D151 for maintenance.
 
Back
Top