Waxed Black & got faint stripes of different shade

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BlantonDetail

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Yesterday I waxed a black Lexus SC hartop convertible. What a sharp little car!
I clayed the whole thing, then used Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste wax by hand. After I let the wax dry and rubbed it off with a MF towel, I noticed these long, thick stripes on the paint, mostly on the hood and trunk, that I could see anyway. They were just slightly different in that the shade of black was almost an extremely dark maroon color, and I could only see the difference by looking at an angle, in a certain way. They were barely there, but it scared the heck out of me after I did the hood first, seeing how this is the nicest car I've done so far. I kept buffing at it with my towel, and the stripes eventually came out. I experimented with leaving the wax on for different lengths of time, but it seemed to always make that happen. Maybe it was a film that was hard to get off? Was this just a bad choice of wax for this black paint? I used this wax on a red VW Beetle last weekend, and it looked fine. Maybe I just couldn't tell as much because of the paint? I really want to get some Poorboy's Natty's or Collinite soon. Did I maybe do something wrong?
I didn't have my phone on me to take any pics... sorry :(
:help:
 
Those Meg's OTC waxes seem to have a habit of doing that (not that there aren't others that do it). IME it's usually that the wax is darkening the paint, and if your application is uneven, some of it gets darker than the rest. My best advice is to do a second application "to ensure even coverage" as it says on the bottle (at least I think it says that on the bottle).
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Those Meg's OTC waxes seem to have a habit of doing that (not that there aren't others that do it). IME it's usually that the wax is darkening the paint, and if your application is uneven, some of it gets darker than the rest. My best advice is to do a second application "to ensure even coverage" as it says on the bottle (at least I think it says that on the bottle).
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I see. I'd say my application is uneven. Obviously I do it in long strides, like Mike P says, instead of circles. Do you think it's the pressure I'm applying on the pad, the amount of product I have on the pad, or something else? With the cleaner wax, I usually put some pressure on the pad when I apply the wax and try to "work it" more. Do I do that with a non-cleaner wax, or just as light as I can for the thinnest coat possible? I know this is some serious noob stuff, asking about how to apply wax. The cars I've waxed so far have turned out really, really nice looking and my customers were very pleased, but I want to do it the right way.
 
IME with the Meg's OTC waxes, you need to work them in a bit. That's helps you get a thin layer, as well. But the application technique is way different than for, say, Klasse SG.

Don't get too worked up about this, you're hardly the first to experience this, and it happens with a lot of LSP's to one degree or another.
 
I agree with Setec. I've had the same issues with the Megs Gold class wax on an early 90's Benz. I ended up having to do 2 more coats of wax to ensure even coverage.

I've since put the Megs gold class on the back shelf and only use it for my lawn mower now....not that it's a bad wax cause it's not at all. But IMO there are better waxes out there. Plus I don't like how the Gold class can stain trim.
 
SeaJay's said:
I've since put the Megs gold class on the back shelf and only use it for my lawn mower now....not that it's a bad wax cause it's not at all. But IMO there are better waxes out there. Plus I don't like how the Gold class can stain trim.
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Yeah, I have several Meg's OTC waxes from the old days that have been demoted to use on the patio furniture, aluminum window cladding, etc. I was hoping to use up my Gold Class liquid from 2003 this year, but no such luck.
 
Also, you mention apply the wax by hand.

Waxing by hand can apply too much or not enough. Applying wax with a dual action polisher will almost guarantee full and even coverage thus minimizing or in many cases eliminating this phenomenon.
 
BobbyG said:
Also, you mention apply the wax by hand.

Waxing by hand can apply too much or not enough. Applying wax with a dual action polisher will almost guarantee full and even coverage thus minimizing or in many cases eliminating this phenomenon.
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Oo, I really want one! I could've had one by now from my detailing profits if my wife understood that my business finances are separate from our personal finances. Right now we owe my business around $400. I keep very accurate accounting records. She's a go on some things occasionally, like she was looking into print ad prices for me the other day when I came home. I think she's coming around on this detailing thing for me.

T
 
BobbyG said:
Also, you mention apply the wax by hand.
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What about applying wax by hand only, with no applicator? I seen the video on Dodo's website demonstrating waxing with your bare hand... Intriguing to me

T
 
BlantonDetail said:
What about applying wax by hand only, with no applicator? I seen the video on Dodo's website demonstrating waxing with your bare hand... Intriguing to me

T
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To be honest I tried it for about 1 minute and it seems to waste an awful lot of wax and didn't do nearly as well as with a foam pad. I'm not sure what the actual benefit's supposed to be.

Applying sealants and waxes using a dual action polisher is so easy and consistent I try NOT to do it any other way...But that's just me..
 
BobbyG said:
To be honest I tried it for about 1 minute and it seems to waste an awful lot of wax and didn't do nearly as well as with a foam pad. I'm not sure what the actual benefit's supposed to be.

Applying sealants and waxes using a dual action polisher is so easy and consistent I try NOT to do it any other way...But that's just me..
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Same here. After the first time I applied a wax or sealant with my PC I was hooked. It's much easier to apply and you are almost always guaranteed a thin even coat.
 
I use Megs Gold Class Carnauba Plus and I'm a big fan. I use a Flex, DA and by hand. I have had what you describe happen. You have to make sure that the wax is completely hazed or you will get areas that are dark. You really need to do a swipe test in an inconspicuous area before you take it off. Applying a second coat and letting it haze completely will remove the darker areas. The Gold Class Plus has additives that add to the richness and slickness of the paint. I don't think there is a better LSP for black paint. This is realy a great product that needs to be applied in a certain way.
 
Thanks a lot for the response!!
I'm always very humbled by you fine folks of this forum.
 
As as been said above...use a DA to apply!

It REALLLLLY helps to get that THIN and EVEN coating...

Bill
 
Have you tried following up with something like Ultimate Quick Wax to make sure everything was removed?
 
rwright said:
Have you tried following up with something like Ultimate Quick Wax to make sure everything was removed?
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If I may, that is not the issue with Gold Class +. It has to be allowed to totally haze before it is removed.
 
truckbutt said:
If I may, that is not the issue with Gold Class +. It has to be allowed to totally haze before it is removed.
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I understand but what I'm actually speaking of, sometimes after removing wax there can still be a slight amount of residue or oils left on the surface causing streaks. Following up with water, quick detailer, or quick wax type products can help clean up anything stubborn. It can be easier than just dry buffing per se.
 
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