wet sand or not to wet sand

Royaldetail

Royaldetail

New member
Joined
Dec 9, 2011
Messages
56
Reaction score
0
what steps would you do
DSC00954.jpg
[/IMG]
DSC00956.jpg
[/IMG]
DSC00935.jpg

DSC00933.jpg

DSC00931.jpg
:buffing::buffing:
 
Flash Gordon said:
Why don't you try washing it first :/
Click to expand...

Just don't leave the rocks in the wash mitt like the last guy did!!

In all seriousness, the golden rule is always and will always be "start with the least aggressive method and move up". You've got bad oxidation there so I would start at a mid way point with M105 and a yellow B & S pad, but in all honesty, you'll probably end up using a wool pad to truly cut into that mess. I'd also make sure you knew exactly how much paint you were working with too. The only thing worse than how it looks now would be striking through the clear!!! If you use wool, clean your pad every 2nd pass or so, as it'll be full of crap that you'll be removing. You've got a big job there. But, it'll look amazing when you're done. The transformation is potentially incredible here.
 
richy said:
I'd also make sure you knew exactly how much paint you were working with too. The only thing worse than how it looks now would be striking through the clear!!!
Click to expand...

I don't need a gauge to tell you that F150's clear/paint is super thin

I good wash, clay and polish would have that thing looking like a diffent truck. I would skip the sandpaper at this point in time
 
the crazy thing is the vehicle has been washed unfortunately the paint on this truck is horrible it's like this all over. If he wants me to do the paint correction Ill post so after pic thanks for getting back to me
 
Royaldetail said:
the crazy thing is the vehicle has been washed unfortunately the paint on this truck is horrible it's like this all over. If he wants me to do the paint correction Ill post so after pic thanks for getting back to me
Click to expand...

Wash really really well. Get as much of the loose dirt off as possible.

As for restoring the paint, like mentioned, you're going to want to start with a compound but don't mess or risk your reputation trying to sand something like this, the paint is too thin, the risk is to high and I'm guessing the reward won't be worth it.

How are you doing your work?

Hand or machine? If by machine which machine?


If you ever use projects like this to build your reputation then read this article first as this looks like a great candidate for what I always call Extreme Makeovers.


The power in the after shots is created in the before shots

In my life I've had the good fortune to work on a lot of cool cars and with a lot of cool people for which I'm always very thankful for. I've also had the good fortune to work on a lot of very neglected cars, some special interest and some not but to the owner it was alway important and when it's important to the owner then it's important to me.

One of the things I've learned when doing dramatic extreme makeovers, whether on oxidized single stage paints or swirled-out clear coats, is the importance of capturing great before shots.

One of the biggest problems with capturing a great before shot is someone, not understanding the value in the before shot and all it's ugliness, will take some kind of paint polishing product and make a clean, shiny spot in an otherwise really neglected and ugly panel like the hood or the trunk-lid. These types of panels make the best before and after shots because they are usually large, they are usually in the worst shape, you can look down on them, or in this case take an overhead shot of them, and the hood is specifically the panel that gets the most attention from car enthusiasts.

So over the years when I've discussed doing future extreme makeovers on project cars with the owners I've always stressed the importance of not touching the paint till AFTER we get the before shots.

It's just so uncanny that if you don't bring this topic up, then sometime before you arrive at the car's location or the car is brought to your location, someone and their good intentions will do you the favor of rubbing something smack dab in the middle of the hood and make a shiny spot and ruin the before pictures.

Anyway, a couple of years ago while scheduling an Extreme Makeover, I wrote this little sentence that I think states the concept very clearly and wanted to post it in it's own thread with a time stamp for others to learn from and hopefully explain the "why" behind the idea...

So here it is and you can quote me on this,


"If you ever do an extreme makeover on a car or some other project, remember the power in the after shots is created in the before shots"


So do your best to get GREAT before shots before bringing your hand or your polisher down onto the paint and making a shiny spot. And try to educate the owner if there's going to be time passing before the project is scheduled to also not take any action until after the before shots area captured. Just as a precaution. Better safe than sorry.


Often times I'll see a great write-up on a spectacular and dramatic before and after project and the detailer will say something like,

"Sorry I didn't get any before pictures"

This happens all the time. It's happened to me because I didn't have a camera handy or the batteries were dead.

So just a note to anyone reading this, if you ever do an extreme makeover on something cool or special interest, remember, the power is in the before pictures, so make plans to capture them before buffing on the car.

Here's an example,

I met this gentleman at our local Autozone and mentioned to him that his car was a great candidate for an extreme makeover; explained the process and gave him my phone number and in our conversation I let him know the importance of not making a shiny spot on the hood.

I figured like most people he'll never call. A few months later this guy calls me and reminds me of the car and asks if I still want to use it for an extreme makeover? Let's me know he's going to take his Dad along for an upcoming car cruise and car show.

I asked him,

Have you worked on it at all?

He said no

So I said, bring it on over and we'll buff it out till it shines like a diamond, which he did. Anyway, it's just a nice old Ford and it was fun to polish out. I was just happy he didn't rub some kind of compound in the middle of the hood in the months between when I met him at Autozone and the day he brought it over.

He purchased this 1960 Ford Ranchero off eBay in running condition for $900.00 and has been tinkering on it in his spare time while using it as a daily driver back and forth to the cement plant where he works. So the paint sits out in the Mojave Desert sun and bakes with a coating of all kinds of dust from the cement plant landing on it.

Before
1960Ranchero01.jpg


One half covered and taped-off
1960Ranchero02.jpg


Before and after results
1960Ranchero03.jpg


After
1960Ranchero06.jpg





:)
 
For this job I will be doing it in side a shop, for the tools I wash thinking about useing the flex 3401 and Meg da and I have a pretty big collection of compounds and polishes lol and pads. I Should have a test spot picture come soon as soon as he agrees to the price haha thanks to everyone for your comments
:iagree::buffing:
 
Look at the first picture I took of the oxidized finish. That's why I'm talking about in this article.


The power in the after shots is created in the before shots



Most people either,
  • Don't take good before shots
  • Take the before shot AFTER they or someone else has buffed a section of the panel which ruins the overall "effect" of the before shot.
Something to think about...



:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top