Would you say that this is just to dangerous to do on factory clear coat?
Depends who is doing it. A scalpel in the hand's of a surgeon is a life saving tool... in the hands of a toddler...
But, as far as a general answer, in many cases sanding with P3000 or finer is actually less invasive to the paint than heavy compounding.
My car has always had orange peel in the factory paint. I swear I greatly improved it with just compound on part of 2 panels where it bothered me the most. I'm contemplating trying it on the doors with 3000 and or 5000?
There are two measurements that orange peel is generally categorized into: short-wave and long-wave texture. Short wave is a the very fine, almost sandy people-like appearance, where as long wave is the larger flowing "waves in a sea"... that might not affect the clarity of the paint but still presents a texture that most find unattractive. I have never seen the official "statistics" of what is considered short and long wave, but I have seen very expensive machines that measure both.
Lightly sanding with P3000 or P5000 foam-backed abrasive discs will generally smooth over the short-wave orange peel and increase clarity, but will likely have little reduction on long-wave texture.
If you really want to flatten the paint you will want to use a film or paper-backed abrasive. Usually these are only found in P2000 and coarser.
Most guys that want to really flatten panels will use a film or paper-backed abrasive by hand on a firm block to flatten the high points, then follow with a finer grit with a D.A. to refine the scratch and make it easier to polish out.
I wouldn't recommend trying to "flatten" factory paint though as it is usually too thin. However, if you have skill with a foam-backed P3000 and a D.A. sander you can usually make a nice improvement in the appearance of the paint without removing any more clear coat than you would by doing a heavy correction.
If you have zero experience sanding, I would recommend attending a class or practicing first.
Two points:
Sanding is easy, removing the sand marks can be difficult.
You can always take paint/clear coat off, you can't put it back on (without respraying)
Also I'm picking up my car from the bodyshop monday. After 30 days do you think I will definitely have to wet sand it or can compound sometimes be enough? What grit should I use if I do
If they do a good job sanding it and/or buffing it, you shouldn't have to do anything. However, if the paint is more than a few days old you can do whatever you want to it within reason.
Depending on the clear-coat, the underlying base, and the drying process, some paint systems are sanded and buffed as soon as they cool off from the oven. An example is PPG's 530, which is recommended to be cut and buffed 45 minutes after cooling down. Some clear coats dry much much slower. I have never seen anything that is not considered safe after a few days, but I would check with your shop.
I'm not afraid I wetsanded out a huge scratch in my hood when I first got the car and on on the shelf of the back bumper. I did it with a piece of 2000 that came in a scratch repair kit. That was 2 years ago right when I started detailing. It definitely worked. It took compound too but there is no trace of the hood scratch anymore.
Sanding a small scratch is world's apart from sanding an entire vehicle. I would recommend a starting point where you are afraid as it will be caution that prevents you from making too many mistakes.
Best of luck
Bodyshop don't seems to color sand around here, also when I asked for 3" and 5" disks they all told me that 6" was the only size avaialble and it came in boxes of 100