Wet Sanding

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58LesPaul

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What grit paper should I start with on this gelcoat? And what subsequent grits should I use? Is there a cheaper alternative to the 3M trizact disc's?




It doesn't look too bad but I can see that it needs to be leveled.

 
I would start maybe 1000.Least aggressive grit first .Never ever skimp on sandpaper you will learn the hardway.Sandpaper is everything cuts down additional labor and the end result finish product will look amazing.using inferior Sandpaper will sometime gouge the paint as the grit particles release from the paper.Your finally end project won't be as flawless when trying to save money.I've done that and payed my dues.Abralon sanding productsare a great match for that.personally 3m leaves pigtails but that's my experience with that product.just do it right the first time with the right products and you will be happy.
 
So 1000, 3000 then 5000? Will I need to use a rotary with wool pad after that or can I finish it with my GG6?
 
IF YOU CHOOSE ABALON I DON'T THINK THEY MAKE EVERY GRIT.YOU WILL HAVE TO USE A ROTARY THEN GO OVER THE WHOLE BOAT WITH A DA.I Think that's to much of a jump from 1000 straight to 3000.maybe 1000 2000 then start buffing.5000 is way to fine and I think you won't benefit from the extra step with 5000.Look into marine captain compound with carpro foam wool pad or the blue rupes pad.Abralon or mirka sand paper.wait for Mike to respond ,I do some boats but I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction.If there is a easier way to work.smarter and not harder Mike will have some great tips.
 
Here's my take...


I've seen so many people join this forum and MeguiarsOnline.com, (I used to run that forum), with a boat like yours and the problems was the clear layer over the large metallic flake was so deteriorated that you could see and FEEL the flake.

When a finish like this gets to the point you can feel the flake there's no fixing it.



In fact - In your other thread about improving gel-coat, in my post I asked,


Mike Phillips said:
Does the gel-coat have metallic flake in it?


If it does, is the surface so weathered you can actually feel the flake? (a very rough feel)
Click to expand...


You can see that post here,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ing/107816-improving-gelcoat.html#post1464642


So I've been there and done that and here's my advice...


Don't wetsand it and make the top clear layer any thinner than you have to or you'll accelerate the deterioration of the finish.


Your boat, your call but once it goes bad there's no fixing it outside of a complete strip and either re-gel-coat or paint over the gel-coat and that will likely lead to stress cracks in the paint job and delamination as the boat flexes in use.



:dunno:
 
Also...


After clicking on your forum nickname to bring up ALL your posts I see you double posted duplicate threads called

Improving gel-coat

One in Boat & Marine Craft Detailing and one in Auto Detailing 101


Customary and normal forum netiquette is to only make ONE post per topic as making two posts causes confusion.



I just merged your two identical threads into one. Here you go...


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/boat-marine-craft-detailing/107816-improving-gelcoat.html



:props:
 
And there you have it from a master detailer mike phillips.just leave it alone and wax it.
 
Thanks everyone! And Mike, the reason I reposted in Detailing 101 was because I wasn't getting many responses so I assumed more people would see it here.


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Mike Phillips said:
Here's my take...


I've seen so many people join this forum and MeguiarsOnline.com, (I used to run that forum), with a boat like yours and the problems was the clear layer over the large metallic flake was so deteriorated that you could see and FEEL the flake.

When a finish like this gets to the point you can feel the flake there's no fixing it.



In fact - In your other thread about improving gel-coat, in my post I asked,





You can see that post here,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ing/107816-improving-gelcoat.html#post1464642


So I've been there and done that and here's my advice...


Don't wetsand it and make the top clear layer any thinner than you have to or you'll accelerate the deterioration of the finish.


Your boat, your call but once it goes bad there's no fixing it outside of a complete strip and either re-gel-coat or paint over the gel-coat and that will likely lead to stress cracks in the paint job and delamination as the boat flexes in use.



:dunno:
Click to expand...

That is some great advice Mike. Gel coat is very different from Cars. I have many customers who think that anything can be fixed and to often I have to walk the fine line of getting the scratches our of Gel to delamination. Most boat builders only spray 4 coats of gel, and the more we wet sand, the less we have to work with. On top of it Gel is very hard and pour-us. From my experience it requires more aggressiveness to cut it vs clear coats.
 
58LesPaul said:
And Mike, the reason I reposted in Detailing 101 was because I wasn't getting many responses so I assumed more people would see it here.
Click to expand...

I understand... been doing the forum thing since the software was invented and released... even have an article on this...


Discussion Forums - A relatively "new" invention...




Just saying one thread for a single topic. Detailing 101 does get more viewers.

One think you can do is ***bump*** your own thread. Some forums don't like their members to bump threads but I don't see a problem with it.

Bumping a thread bumps it back onto the forum homepage under "Recent Threads" and that's where I LOOK for people asking for help. So don't ever shy away from bumping a thread.


:cheers:
 
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