Wetsanded a little too much

johnny_abardi

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Hi everyone,

I've spent all this afternoon wetsanding back all my touchup areas applied to stone chips on the front of my daily driver (Applied last weekend). After removing the wetsanding marks with Meguiars Ultimate Compound, I noticed that a few areas I must have wetsanded too deep as it seems for lack of a better word, divoted.

Everything is ok with the paint color however, whilst compounding, I noticed the reflection isnt level, as if I've wetsanded too deep in a few spots, creating a 'divot' in the clearcoat. The only way I can really describe it is similar to hail damage.

Is there a way to level the clearcoat myself or is it going to be one of those 'respray or make do' situations?

I apologise for lack of photos but it's too dark to get a good picture.
 
Did you wetsanded your ride ! If you went too far then you ll need to have that section done by a pro painter .

If not , some will be able to help you out in here .
 
:welcome: To Autogeek Online! :props:

Wet sanding will level out all the high spots as long as they're about 0.0005 deep.

Paints today are "about" 0.001 to 0.0015 thick and you can sand right through a factory finish is no time at all. The only corrective action to restore the finish now is to repaint.....and add several extra clear coats for wet sanding...:props:
 
Saying you wet sanded a little too much is like saying a girl is a little bit pregnant. You need a repaint.
 
Thanks Bobby, did alot of research here before jumping in and now I'm hooked.

I think deep down I knew a respray was the only solution but was hoping to avoid that. It doesn't look like I've gone all the way through the clear as no color appeared when compounding so since it's the daily driver it's probably not worth doing.

I guess the only comfort for me is that it doesn't stand out as much as the dozens of stone chips that were touched up.
 
Short of a repaint, you won't be able to remove them unless you sand the surrounding areas down to the same level, which is a bad idea. I'm sure others may disagree, but one possible option you may have is trying to blend or soften the edges of the "divots" so that they are less visible. I can't say that I'd recommend it, but its an option...
 
Hi everyone,

I've spent all this afternoon wetsanding back all my touchup areas applied to stone chips on the front of my daily driver (Applied last weekend). After removing the wetsanding marks with Meguiars Ultimate Compound, I noticed that a few areas I must have wetsanded too deep as it seems for lack of a better word, divoted.

Everything is ok with the paint color however, whilst compounding, I noticed the reflection isnt level, as if I've wetsanded too deep in a few spots, creating a 'divot' in the clearcoat. The only way I can really describe it is similar to hail damage.

Is there a way to level the clearcoat myself or is it going to be one of those 'respray or make do' situations?

I apologise for lack of photos but it's too dark to get a good picture.

What grade of paper and what machine did you use? It might just be that you need a less aggresive paper or a stronger machine


Anyway for :Picture: ?
 
I was gonna say the same thing... try to finish up with a 3000 grit sandpaper. Depending on the grit you used, the compound might not be able to remove those scratches.
 
Uploaded some photos.

The issue isn't scratches after wetsanding but more the change in refraction properties on the surface of the paint.

I Wetsanded using 2000-grit paper adhered to the back of a pencil as the areas were small being stone chips. After wetsanding I compounded by hand using Ultimate Compound. (I know I need a DA polisher however funds are stretched thin at the moment so will have to wait till Christmas.)

Getting a closer look at it, I think the clearcoat I applied is much stronger than the factory clearcoat as it did take a bit of effort to level the clear I applied. This is where I'm thinking things started falling apart???

Full procedure was:

1/ Wax & Grease Remover
2/ Feathered edges
3/ Rust converter where through to metal.
4/ Wax and Grease Remover
5/ Primer Where necessary - Dry
6/ Color - Dry
7/ Color - Dry
8/ Clearcoat (Aerosol with touch up applicator brush)
9/ Clearcoat
10/ Wetsand clearcoat flush
11/ Compounded
12/ Final polish and wax yet to do.




Wetsanding defect - AutogeekOnline Gallery


Wetsanding defect2 - AutogeekOnline Gallery
 
My eyes must be getting bad. It looks fine to me

I think you just need a rotary polishing


*edit

I see one little dot below your finger. Is that what you're talking about?
 
From experience of furniture repair looks like you didnt use a sanding block by hand or some kind of da with a foam interface. You applied too much pressure with your fingertips and created a divot.

If you have enough cc try leveling by sanding the divot and around the divot to blend it in or try to level it this time with a da or at least a sanding block

Sent from my SCH-I605 using AG Online
 
My eyes must be getting bad. It looks fine to me

I think you just need a rotary polishing


*edit

I see one little dot below your finger. Is that what you're talking about?

No it's the distortion to the tip of the finger, I put the finger there so you can see that right at the end of the finger, the effect it has on the refelction as it distorts the finger.

*edit: I think I can see why it's hard as it looks like my fingernail. I shamefully bite my nails so that's not a fingernail in the photo, that's the defect.*

From experience of furniture repair looks like you didnt use a sanding block by hand or some kind of da with a foam interface. You applied too much pressure with your fingertips and created a divot.

If you have enough cc try leveling by sanding the divot and around the divot to blend it in or try to level it this time with a da or at least a sanding block

Sent from my SCH-I605 using AG Online

I didn't use my fingers when wetsanding as I had the paper glued to the back of a pencil, I did use a small hand applicator though for the compounding. I read Mike's "Art of Detailing" and applied his technique here keeping level pressure instead of finger pressure. How much improvement would you expect is possible by going around the edges to try and blend it more?
 
No it's the distortion to the tip of the finger, I put the finger there so you can see that right at the end of the finger, the effect it has on the refelction as it distorts the finger.

*edit: I think I can see why it's hard as it looks like my fingernail. I shamefully bite my nails so that's not a fingernail in the photo, that's the defect.*



I didn't use my fingers when wetsanding as I had the paper glued to the back of a pencil, I did use a small hand applicator though for the compounding. I read Mike's "Art of Detailing" and applied his technique here keeping level pressure instead of finger pressure. How much improvement would you expect is possible by going around the edges to try and blend it more?

Like I said Idk how much cc you have and if you have a paint thickness gauge but I would try a 3 inch pad and try to level it out. If you feel confident that there's enough cc to play with


Sent from my SCH-I605 using AG Online
 
Do you have some 3000 with a foam interface and a 3 bp for your da?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using AG Online
 
Do you have some 3000 with a foam interface and a 3 bp for your da?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using AG Online

Only have 2000 but can get some 3000. I don't have a foam interface either as I've only been able to find solid plastic backing.

Don't yet have a DA as I'll have to wait till Christmas for that baby. I've only been using the meguiars and Lake Country CCS Hand Applicators
 
No it's the distortion to the tip of the finger, I put the finger there so you can see that right at the end of the finger, the effect it has on the refelction as it distorts the finger.

*edit: I think I can see why it's hard as it looks like my fingernail. I shamefully bite my nails so that's not a fingernail in the photo, that's the defect.*

Bite your nails or your finger tips off?

I wouldn't use a pencil eraser as a sanding block

Only have 2000 but can get some 3000. I don't have a foam interface either as I've only been able to find solid plastic backing.

Don't yet have a DA as I'll have to wait till Christmas for that baby. I've only been using the meguiars and Lake Country CCS Hand Applicators

I know it will be hard (kinda like not biting your fingernails) , but try not to mess with it anymore until you get a polisher

Where are you located? Maybe someone local could lend you a polisher or help you
 
Bite your nails or your finger tips off?

I wouldn't use a pencil eraser as a sanding block

Haha, just the nails.

Yeah I think that may have been too soft and conformed like a finger around the blob but went ahead with it as I thought would be stiffer than a foam block.

I know it will be hard (kinda like not biting your fingernails) , but try not to mess with it anymore until you get a polisher

Where are you located? Maybe someone local could lend you a polisher or help you

It took alot of restraint to hold back yesterday. Think I might need to take it to the smash repairer next door and see if I can get them to touch it up a bit as I know if I don't get it done soon, it will get the better of me.
 
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