Wetsanding the only solution? '92 Corvette w/paint inperfections

[mrgto]

So above is the rear deck on a 1992 Corvette. This is a 13K mile original car that was used as the basis for the NCRS judging manual for 1992 Corvette's. It's been garaged it's whole life but somewhere along the way the paint has many defects in it.

I'm not sure if they're under the clear coat or over it. I tried to polish out some but it seems they're probably under or in the clear coat. My guess is if that is correct then the only way to get them out is to sand the car down and repaint. Those defects are only apparent under florescent lighting. I'll try to get a better picture later on today when I'm over at my parents house.

Then there is this little devil. I think some hand cleaner got spilled onto the paint and it burned through. This is a 1966 427/425hp roadster corvette Duntov winner. Guessing the paint would have to be sanded down and touched up.

 

[Flash Gordon]

If you can't pick it off with your fingernail, then it is below the surface of your clear coat

Sounds like you have some great cars. I would be very careful about who you hire to do this. You may be better off just forgetting the whole thing

 

[mrgto]

Flash, if it's under the clear then nothing can be done about it anyway so it would stay that way.

The blue '66 has other issues on the front of the car as well. It was a show car and is now a driver.

Not mine but my old man's. He's been very fortunate with the cars he's found over the years.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

http://s181.photobucket.com/user/mrgto455/media/20130719_120639_zpsf26b1049.jpg.html

So above is the rear deck on a 1992 Corvette. This is a 13K mile original car that was used as the basis for the NCRS judging manual for 1992 Corvette's. It's been garaged it's whole life but somewhere along the way the paint has many defects in it.

I'm not sure if they're under the clear coat or over it. I tried to polish out some but it seems they're probably under or in the clear coat. My guess is if that is correct then the only way to get them out is to sand the car down and repaint. Those defects are only apparent under florescent lighting. I'll try to get a better picture later on today when I'm over at my parents house.

You're thinking is correct, if the defects are under the clear layer of paint then you cannot fix or remove them without repainting.

You can only "affect" what's on the top surface layer.

Also, I've buffed out a few original paint Corvettes from these years and the paint is as hard as nails just like current Corvettes.

Then there is this little devil. I think some hand cleaner got spilled onto the paint and it burned through. This is a 1966 427/425hp roadster corvette Duntov winner.

Guessing the paint would have to be sanded down and touched up.

http://s181.photobucket.com/user/mrgto455/media/20130719_114041_zpsbb7c4e4e.jpg.html

If that's the original single stage paint then sanding or compounding will probably hit into the actual flake and create a lighter looking spot where you work.

Again you are correct in that to properly fix it you will probably have to repaint.

If it were mine, I would be tempted to maybe lightly sand with a little 3M #5000 and then hit it with a little compound or polish, (good stuff), especially if you are going to repaint at some point no matter what. (can't hurt to try)


Nice couple of plastic fantastics you have there... I've been the guest speaker for the NCRS 3 times in my life and in my how-to book there's a few pictures of when I worked on an all original 1980 Corvette, the first year with a factory clear coat. This was at the National NCRS meet in Boston a few years ago. Actually worked on a LOT of Corvettes that weekend, just didn't have anyone to take pictures.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

...my how-to book there's a few pictures of when I worked on an all original 1980 Corvette, the first year with a factory clear coat.

I had no idea they were using BC/CC then, was that the first production use as far as you know? I know more pedestrian GM cars started CC in the mid-80's, I think Chrysler might have beat them to it by a year or two.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I had no idea they were using BC/CC then, was that the first production use as far as you know? I know more pedestrian GM cars started CC in the mid-80's, I think Chrysler might have beat them to it by a year or two.

The story is on pages 7-8 in the first edition of my how-to book and 5-6 in the section edition of my how-to book.


Corvette led the way for domestic car production. I've had a lot of fun over the years and met a lot of people in this industry, that's for sure...

 

[FUNX650]

in my how-to book there's a few pictures of when I worked on an all original 1980 Corvette, the first year with a factory clear coat.

I had no idea they were using BC/CC then, was that the first production use as far as you know?

The 1981 Corvette was the first model year that was built in two locations:
-St Louis, MO............production ended: August 1, 1981.
-Bowling Green, Ky....production started: June 1, 1981.

Paint systems:
-St Louis, MO...Mainly SS lacquer...with the exception of a limited run of 100 two-tones
that were painted with Bowling Green, Ky.'s enamel/clear-coat paint system.
(These were offered first to GM employees and their families...before any sales to the general populace.)
These two-tones are: Silver/Dark Blue; Silver/Charcoal; Beige/Dark Bronze; Autumn Red/Dark Claret.

NOTE:There is also only one 1981 St. Louis built 'primer-only' known of, and its paint code was:"SPEC".


-Bowling Green, KY....Enamel-basecoats with clear-coat top-coats.


As is the case for many OEM's:
I'm sure there were Corvette "painting-anomalies" that have occurred along the way.



Bob

Sources:
-Corvette Black Book; ppg. 82, 83.
-Long-time Corvette enthusiast friend of mine from Columbus, Ohio that owns two all-original 1981's:
A lacquer-SS from St. Louis; And a BC/CC from Bowling Green...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks for adding the above Bob...


All I know is I was at the NCRS National Meet, I taught a class for the event and afterwards one of the members who had his Corvette at the event, told me he purchased it new, was the only owner and had never had it re-painted.

I worked on it by hand and by machine in front of at least 30-40 people or more and the swirls and scratches came out easily by hand and machine and there was no pigment on my pads. The owner told me it was a basecoat/clearcoat finish. Maybe he was wrong or like you say, maybe it was a anomaly or even a transitional car.


I was just happy to have earned his trust.


I have a customer in West Palm Beach, he owns a 1979 Corvette with the original single stage enamel paint. I'm slated to do the #7 rub-out on this car for a new project.

 

[mrgto]

Mike, thanks. Sorry I missed you in Boston. My father is the business development mangager for the NCRS and he did a lot of work for that meet since it's in our back yard. I'm from 30 miles south of Boston.

Thanks for the advice. Here are a few pictures I snapped this morning when I was over there picking up my detailing materials.

 

[FUNX650]

Mike...

First:
I apologize for any misconceptions, if there were any, that is.
I was not trying to say you, the owner, or the folks at the NCRS were mistaken...
I was just wanting to add GM's "official" build-sheet information.

Secondly:
If only I had a couple of the transitional (Duntov) Corvette test mules...




Bob

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Mike, thanks. Sorry I missed you in Boston. My father is the business development mangager for the NCRS and he did a lot of work for that meet since it's in our back yard. I'm from 30 miles south of Boston.

Small world, maybe NCRS will have me back in the future...

Thanks for the advice. Here are a few pictures I snapped this morning when I was over there picking up my detailing materials.

What do you have for,

Compound?
Pad?
Tool?


In your pictures, the stain rings look like they will buff right out.

Like the one I see in this picture right below the light reflection at the top of the picture.

And compounding will help this one...

Run them on down to the show car garage and I'll give you a hand...

 

[mrgto]

Meg's Ultimate
Multiple kinds of pads(which is best-Orange/grey/white/blue) for compound?
Older PC for a tool.

Ya there are some water stains that will probably come out but the camera didn't pick up the other little imperfections under the clear.

The gas stain from the '66 looks like it might need a wet sand as compound didn't really touch it.

Yea, if I could get the old man to ship them down to ya I'm sure he would. He is on his way back home from the NCRS convention in Norfolk VA.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Meg's Ultimate

Multiple kinds of pads (which is best-Orange/grey/white/blue) for compound?

Older PC for a tool.

Without knowing the brand it's hard to tell you what each pad should be used for as there is no standard in the industry.

If you have Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish these will do the job.


Since you have a first generation PC, you need to mark your backing plate and make sure it's always rotating under pressure otherwise you're not doing anything...


Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation

Here's a quick video that show how and why to mark your backing plate to see and monitor pad rotation while doing any correction or polishing steps.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

The below video covers a TON of tips and techniques....


Video: How to remove shallow RIDS and how to machine apply both a paint sealant and a finishing wax

​

In this video, you'll see how to inspect and remove RIDS or Random Isolated Deeper Scratches using 4" Spot Repair Pads on a Porter Cable 7424XP DA Polisher.

How to remove shallow RIDS and how to machine
apply both a paint sealant and a finishing wax
[video=youtube_share;3xJH_MGgbLw&hd=1"]How to remove shallow RIDS and how to machine...[/video]​

This how-to video also covers,

• RIDS - Random Isolated Deeper Scratches
• Removing watches and any jewelery
• Using a DA Polisher without the handle
• Placing cord over shoulder
• Priming the pad on a DA Polisher
• Speed settings for removing isolated defects
• Downward pressure needed for removing isolated defects
• How to clean a pad on the fly
• Where and why to mark your backing plate with a black mark
• Rotating the body of the tool to keep the pad flat to a panel
• Why to allow the pad to stop spinning before lifting the pad off the paint
• How to swap backing plates from a 3.5" to a 5"
• Machine waxing using 5.5" Hydro-Tech Crimson Finishing pads with Menzerna Power Lock
• The "Kissing the Finish" Technique
• How to do the Swipe Test to check if a wax or paint sealant is dry
• How to remove dried paint sealant using a microfiber bonnet on a dry pad on a DA Polisher
• How to clean a microfiber bonnet on the fly with your fingernails
• How to apply a paste wax by machine - Souveran Paste Wax
• How to carefully wipe a WOWO wax off by hand using Microfiber Gloves and plush Microfiber Towels
• How and why to fold a microfiber towel 4-ways to wipe wax off
• How to break-open a coat of wax and then creep out to carefully wipe off a coating of wax
• How to do the "Final Wipe"