Wetsanding -Trizact vs Abralon

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Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.

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Having fun on Friday!

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:)




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When I was going to do some damp sanding, I was looking at either Trizact, or Meg's UniGrit. Unfortunately, the UniGrit was already being phased out. The Trizact was a bit costly, so I looked at Abralon.

LOVE THEM. Their sanding discs are great. With their "air through" construction, I'd really like to invest in one of their extraction units (vaccum?).

I've only used Trizact by hand, and those are great, too.

Was working on this hood using Abralon discs... [no pic. the gallery isn't accepting the pic? or maybe 24hr processing?]
 
I just finished a full cut and buff on my DD, using trizact 1500/3000 3"/6" and I have to say that those discs are awesome. The cut life is unreal on the 3000. I used 1-2 1500 for each panel and 2 total 3000 on the entire vehicle. Very impressed. Obligatory "I will never wet-sand by hand again" comment.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Rsurfer said:
Which brand to you prefer?
Click to expand...

I like them both. Which brand and "style" I use depends on the project and the goal.

I cover this topic in the video.



JustJesus said:
When I was going to do some damp sanding, I was looking at either Trizact, or Meg's UniGrit. Unfortunately, the UniGrit was already being phased out.
Click to expand...

Yeah... too bad Meguiar's gets rid off cool products. :dunno:

I actually taught the first public wetsanding or damp sanding class when the Meguiar's Unigrit discs were introduced at Mobile Tech Expo back in 2010 when it was held in Clearwater Florida, my class was packed as everyone wanted to learn about these new sanding discs.

Pictures from Mobile Tech Expo 2010




JustJesus said:
The Trizact was a bit costly, so I looked at Abralon.
Click to expand...

Correct.

Trizact is approximately twice as much, maybe someone can do the math on a per-disc cost and post what the accurate cost comparison is, (I have a truck to buff out).


That said, the foam backing on the Trizact discs is dramatically thinner than that of the Mirka Abralon and it is this difference that I choose Trizact for my Scuff & Buff Wetsanding Technique for removing orange peel.

For the upcoming boat detailing class however, we'll be using Mirka Abralon due to the cost factor but also because for gel-coat sanding, foam backing thickness is a non-issue.

Can't wait for this video to get through editing, it has a TON of tips and techniques.


:)
 
I use both on a daily basis. While I love Mirka Abralon pads and buy the 1000 and 2000 abralon discs in 3" and 6" sizes. The Trizact 3000 and 5000 discs are completely worth the money IMO. I can do with one Trizact 3000 disc what would require 5 mirka abralon 3000 discs to achieve.

On the plus side, Mirka Abralon 1000 and 2000 grit discs are less likely to induce pigtails into the paint than trizact 1500. Also, Mirka pads are easy to rinse out once they become clogged with paint residue and they are a better option when working on contours IMO
 
subyfan said:
I just finished a full cut and buff on my DD, using trizact 1500/3000 3"/6" and I have to say that those discs are awesome. The cut life is unreal on the 3000. I used 1-2 1500 for each panel and 2 total 3000 on the entire vehicle. Very impressed. Obligatory "I will never wet-sand by hand again" comment.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Autogeekonline mobile app
Click to expand...

Do you have a before and after picture of the orange peel?

RSW
 
Hey Mike,

My thinking is that when it comes to cutting, whether with paper or compound, the point is to get a consistent scratch pattern at every step. So, If I'm starting with say, 1000 grit paper, every scratch from that abrasive should touch another scratch of the same depth, and the more overlap, pretty much the better. The same thing goes with abrasives in compounds, let's say someone wanted to make an existing compound more aggressive so they added some larger abrasive. If they don't add enough to create a consistent scratch pattern, then all you have is some deep cuts in an otherwise intact field.

When it comes to these two products, obviously, they both work but I would expect one of them, because it has less area of contact with the paint would require more total movement between the pad and the paint to get to a consistent scratch pattern.

When I colorsand, I do my best to cut down to such a fine and consistent scratch that when I polish, it looks like the paint was shot that way. I want my work to be invisible. I can neither confirm or deny that I was even there, including swirls, compound, sanding residue or anything else. At least that's the goal. I always make a point of doing a checkup a few days later to make sure.

RSW
 
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