What did I do wrong here? (no gloss on paint)
- Thread starter abefroman
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #3
I guess my question is rather, is there any way to get this glossier?
6 coats of dupli-color black, sanded with 2000 grit
6 coats of dupli-color gloss
Here's a before and after photo:
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
- 16,860
- 1,181
Well, it's a little hard to tell from the picture. Does it feel smooth? Is it dull because you dry-sprayed? If it's rough and dry you'll need to sand and polish it. If it's real smooth...isn't the matte look in?
- Thread starter
- #5
Hehe, I like matte, the rest of the car is gloss though.
I wet sanded before the gloss, so its pretty smooth.
master detailer
New member
- Nov 9, 2010
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lol thats all over spray 6 coatswet sand it with 2500 lightly and hit it with a buffer and wool pad.spray lots of water to keep it cool cover all your windows
- Thread starter
- #8
It was about 8-10 inches, as the can stated, should I hold it closer?
heres the unofficial list of what you did wrong:
1) you didnt remove the hood and bumper prior to painting
2) if you wetsanded before painting i'm guessing you didnt use anything more aggressive than 1500 grit, should've used at least 800 to give the surface tooth.
3) you didnt block it correctly or at all, i can see the lack of symmetry in the pic. get a contour gauge.
4)you painted outside in the sun on a hot day. i know because of how the paint looks like sand paper.
5) you didnt say anything about using any primer, should have at least used a basic filler primer, preferebly self etching though.
6) duplicolor rattle cans are not compatible with your factory paint. you can get color matched cans from many body shop supply stores, they will be compatible and spray a lot nicer/more consistently.
7) using bondo in place of body work.
i'm not saying you can't do decent work with rattle cans, you can, it just has to be done right. do more research.
1) you didnt remove the hood and bumper prior to painting
2) if you wetsanded before painting i'm guessing you didnt use anything more aggressive than 1500 grit, should've used at least 800 to give the surface tooth.
3) you didnt block it correctly or at all, i can see the lack of symmetry in the pic. get a contour gauge.
4)you painted outside in the sun on a hot day. i know because of how the paint looks like sand paper.
5) you didnt say anything about using any primer, should have at least used a basic filler primer, preferebly self etching though.
6) duplicolor rattle cans are not compatible with your factory paint. you can get color matched cans from many body shop supply stores, they will be compatible and spray a lot nicer/more consistently.
7) using bondo in place of body work.
i'm not saying you can't do decent work with rattle cans, you can, it just has to be done right. do more research.
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks for the tips!
1) you didnt remove the hood and bumper prior to painting
>>True, I'm sure how much difference that would have made though
2) if you wetsanded before painting i'm guessing you didnt use anything more aggressive than 1500 grit, should've used at least 800 to give the surface tooth.
>>I used 1000
3) you didnt block it correctly or at all, i can see the lack of symmetry in the pic. get a contour gauge.
>>What's a contour gauge?
4)you painted outside in the sun on a hot day. i know because of how the paint looks like sand paper.
>>It was in the evening on a hot day
5) you didnt say anything about using any primer, should have at least used a basic filler primer, preferebly self etching though.
>>I used a grey primer (also duplicolor) over the areas I bondoed.
6) duplicolor rattle cans are not compatible with your factory paint. you can get color matched cans from many body shop supply stores, they will be compatible and spray a lot nicer/more consistently.
>>Odd, it said it was an exact match for my vehicle on the can
7) using bondo in place of body work.
>>Yes, the area that was rust through I should have used metal, its hard to from the after photo though.
1) you didnt remove the hood and bumper prior to painting
>>True, I'm sure how much difference that would have made though
2) if you wetsanded before painting i'm guessing you didnt use anything more aggressive than 1500 grit, should've used at least 800 to give the surface tooth.
>>I used 1000
3) you didnt block it correctly or at all, i can see the lack of symmetry in the pic. get a contour gauge.
>>What's a contour gauge?
4)you painted outside in the sun on a hot day. i know because of how the paint looks like sand paper.
>>It was in the evening on a hot day
5) you didnt say anything about using any primer, should have at least used a basic filler primer, preferebly self etching though.
>>I used a grey primer (also duplicolor) over the areas I bondoed.
6) duplicolor rattle cans are not compatible with your factory paint. you can get color matched cans from many body shop supply stores, they will be compatible and spray a lot nicer/more consistently.
>>Odd, it said it was an exact match for my vehicle on the can
7) using bondo in place of body work.
>>Yes, the area that was rust through I should have used metal, its hard to from the after photo though.
BlackHawk
New member
- Feb 8, 2013
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- 0
yea i agree with the above ^^ ive never heard of someone doing that...
- Thread starter
- #14
Oops, are you suppose to spray clear over the base and then sand the clear?
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
- 16,860
- 1,181
That's the way they do it at the factory, I'm not sure there's a problem with you sanding the rattle can base--I mean, it wasn't specifically basecoat, was it? It was just a can of Duplicolor touchup, right? I don't think they require that you top that with clear.
- Thread starter
- #17
Thanks, yep it wasn't the actual base, it was duplicolor, which comes out flat.
I think the problem was the clear was too far away so it was basically just spraying dust/over spray.
I putting the can 4-5 inches away this time (instead of the recommedned 8-10), and it seems to be making it glossy, although it got dark out before I could finish.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
- 16,860
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Well, at least you'll have plenty of clear on there to sand.
- Thread starter
- #19
What do I sand the clear with 2000? Sanding won't dull it at all?
Or should I just polish it?
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
- 16,860
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It kind of sounds like you should sand it. You could do 2000, but probably best to go up to 2500 or 3000 before polishing.