What did you do today, in regards to detailing?

I just bought this to try it on my truck. I cant wait to use it. I just read about the Koch Chemie S0.02, have you used that before? It looks impressive.
I liked soo2 but imo it doesn’t warrant the 30+ dollar price tag. It seems a middle of the pack. It had decent slickness, decent water behavior. If you have it use it, if not, I think there are other better products. Put another way it stayed on my shelf after 2 applications.
 
I liked soo2 but imo it doesn’t warrant the 30+ dollar price tag. It seems a middle of the pack. It had decent slickness, decent water behavior. If you have it use it, if not, I think there are other better products. Put another way it stayed on my shelf after 2 applications.
Thank you for this! It seems like so many products out there are over hyped and marketed better than they perform.

It is hard to weed the bad ones out nowadays.

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And a good amount of car fires in NJ
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And a good amount of car fires in NJ
Many years ago I worked on the same crew with a guy who had a car that he thought was a lemon, and was unsatisfied with what the dealer was doing with it. One day we're out on the job and he looks at his watch and says "well, my car should be gone now". And he told us he had paid someone to set it on fire.
 
Thank you for this! It seems like so many products out there are over hyped and marketed better than they perform.

It is hard to weed the bad ones out nowadays.

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I dont think Soo2 is overhyped, i think its just an old formula that has been superseded by better stuff. I bought my bottle in like 2022.
 
I just bought this to try it on my truck. I cant wait to use it. I just read about the Koch Chemie S0.02, have you used that before? It looks impressive.

I have used both Perfect Finish Sealant and S0.02. Actually, I won the bottle of S0.02 and was sent a bottle of PFS to test.

S0.02 - This is a polymer spray sealant, which means it's super easy to apply. I actually really like it because of the high gloss and slickness, and the ease of application. In comparison to some spray sealants, you really don't need to put much effort into the wipe on/off, it flashes off to a streak free finish. From what I understand, the longevity isn't exceptional, but in my opinion, the ease of application balances the equation. For example, it can be used on a near-dry surface after a wash, almost like a drying aid-type of application. Naturally, don't use it all the time like that, rather it shows how flexible S0.02.

On this Range Rover, the paint was HAMMERED! Full of swirls created by car wash brooms. I gave the car a decon wash, then blew it down and applied S0.02. The gloss, slickness and saturation hides how trashed the paint is. All from a spray and wipe product.

Having won the bottle, I had nothing to loose................but I would absolutely buy it again.







Perfect Finish Sealant - This is much more modern sealant, if a little unconventional in the modern era. It doesn't atomize, so technically it's not a spray sealant. Instead, its more of a lotion that is applied with foam/microfiber applicator, or even a D/A machine. This would be the same way you'd apply a traditional liquid wax or sealant, which I don't really like it for that reason. Actually, that type of application is probably why PFS lasts longer as you are laying down something more substantial than a simply spray and wipe product. I've put it on a customers car that sits outdoors 24/7 and have been extremely impressed how long it hung in there.

The other thing I noticed was how it filled minor defects. The badge on this Subaru was jacked up, well PFS completely hid the swirls on the badge, and the rest of the car too. It also brought out the metallic, which can be hard to highlight on white paint.







The real question here is if you want a spray sealant or a liquid sealant. I prefer S0.02 because it's easier to apply and has a warmer level of gloss, something that comes back to its older polymer formulation. New isn't always immediately better.
 
are they inside safe? That is why I like the reflect, it can applied to the inside glass to prevent fogging / dirt (works marginally well in that regard but better than nothing)

I wouldn't use either on window tint film, but otherwise fine for interior work. I really like Reflect, its more versatile, smells nice, super slick and less (no) streaking issues that plague some of these glass cleaners. I'd rate Reflect alongside Opti-Coat Glass Clean & Protect.



I'd also check out ADS Hero mixed at 128:1 as well. This won't have the same flash-off as a traditional IPA-based glass cleaner, but still impressive in that regard. According to Bradley, Hero is safe for interior use, including window tint. It also gives a slick finish, and won't degrade existing coatings/sealants with frequent use. I'd also look at Koch Chemie RRW at 128:1 and Carpro ECH20 at 100:1...............both work really well as glass cleaners.





 
I have used both Perfect Finish Sealant and S0.02. Actually, I won the bottle of S0.02 and was sent a bottle of PFS to test.

S0.02 - This is a polymer spray sealant, which means it's super easy to apply. I actually really like it because of the high gloss and slickness, and the ease of application. In comparison to some spray sealants, you really don't need to put much effort into the wipe on/off, it flashes off to a streak free finish. From what I understand, the longevity isn't exceptional, but in my opinion, the ease of application balances the equation. For example, it can be used on a near-dry surface after a wash, almost like a drying aid-type of application. Naturally, don't use it all the time like that, rather it shows how flexible S0.02.

On this Range Rover, the paint was HAMMERED! Full of swirls created by car wash brooms. I gave the car a decon wash, then blew it down and applied S0.02. The gloss, slickness and saturation hides how trashed the paint is. All from a spray and wipe product.

Having won the bottle, I had nothing to loose................but I would absolutely buy it again.







Perfect Finish Sealant - This is much more modern sealant, if a little unconventional in the modern era. It doesn't atomize, so technically it's not a spray sealant. Instead, its more of a lotion that is applied with foam/microfiber applicator, or even a D/A machine. This would be the same way you'd apply a traditional liquid wax or sealant, which I don't really like it for that reason. Actually, that type of application is probably why PFS lasts longer as you are laying down something more substantial than a simply spray and wipe product. I've put it on a customers car that sits outdoors 24/7 and have been extremely impressed how long it hung in there.

The other thing I noticed was how it filled minor defects. The badge on this Subaru was jacked up, well PFS completely hid the swirls on the badge, and the rest of the car too. It also brought out the metallic, which can be hard to highlight on white paint.







The real question here is if you want a spray sealant or a liquid sealant. I prefer S0.02 because it's easier to apply and has a warmer level of gloss, something that comes back to its older polymer formulation. New isn't always immediately better.
Thank you! I bought PFS for it's filling capabilities. I live in a construction zone so I want some of the light swirls filled until I have a chance to correct them. Lets see how it performs.

I will try S0.02 when I run out of some of my other spray Sealants.

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Would like to see pics of the completed unit, with capacity/working pressure/etc.
I will post pictures when completed. Finishing up a few final changes on the holder and I am still deciding if I am going to have it FDM or SLS 3D printed and what material to use.
 
I found out there is another "local" Detail supply place. about 2 hours drive from me. I decided over the weekend to apply a proper ceramic to the atlas since the c2v4 didnt take. (probably my fault). Went to the place called detailing world. after some of the hype from Brian at Apex, i expected a larger operation. My go to place has twice the inventory. basically not worth the drive / fuel to get there and back. They do have things I cant get from the go to place, like Gyeon and Car Pro, but the distance doesnt warrant it. Id rather order from autogeek using their coupon.

I did however pick up 50ml of Gyeon Mohs. I know there are some objectively better coatings out there, but mohs has been out long enough to see reviews after a year or two. ADS quartz v2 hasnt been on the market long enough to get that sort of data. I got the 50 ML to be sure I have enough for the whole car and a 2nd coat on the doors. My coatings always fail first on the lower door and the roof.

I also got a liter of Gyeon prep, ( I am going to use a LOT this time to be sure that coating takes) A fender liner brush, and some gyeon water spot remover.

Otherwise, i washed both cars. The atlas had crazy waterspots because apparently my water softener was injecting salt into the water :(.
I spent a good bit of time and my remaining ADS amplify to sort that out. I did a really thorough job on the wheels on both cars. Wheels are my least favorite thing to work on behind the interior windshield glass, so I tend to speed through it on normal washes. I grabbed a stool and spent about 5 minutes on each wheel, brush, rag, etc. On the atlas, I went back with Colonite slickr and dried the wheels and buffed to a shine. On the GTI i did the same but with C2 V4 from Gtechniq, its what i was using as a drying aid on the GTI. Finished the tires with Vonnix revox. They look great.

The atlas still has some salt haze, so I am going to use some distilled water to rinseless wash it later today. I really want to get some rinseless wash here before the end of the week but dont think i will manage. Trying to switch to a surfactant heavy blend like DIY or ADS.
 
I also got a liter of Gyeon prep, ( I am going to use a LOT this time to be sure that coating takes) A fender liner brush, and some gyeon water spot remover.

Not directed you, but something I've noticed over the years on the topic of prep sprays.

Many overestimate how effective prep sprays are. In that I mean people using a few light mists per panel, wiping immediately and assuming that's good enough. In reality, you need to be generous, allow to dwell for 15 - 30 seconds, then wiping. That gives the product time to break down contaminants such as polish oils, skin oils, chemical residues etc. It's also why dedicated prep-sprays are superior in that they have a more controlled evaporation rate, home made IPA blends flash too quickly to be effective and can swell the clear coat.

Just something to keep in mind when you are using these products.
 
I found out there is another "local" Detail supply place. about 2 hours drive from me.
Well you are more willing to take a chance than me. There is a very good detail supply business just across town from me. Probably 20 miles or maybe slightly less. That is too far for me to drive. I have purchased from them but got the items shipped. If I am in their area I would certainly stop in and pick up a few things but not going to make that drive just to get detailing products. 2 hours is way too far to drive for anything detailing related.
 
Well you are more willing to take a chance than me. There is a very good detail supply business just across town from me. Probably 20 miles or maybe slightly less. That is too far for me to drive. I have purchased from them but got the items shipped. If I am in their area I would certainly stop in and pick up a few things but not going to make that drive just to get detailing products. 2 hours is way too far to drive for anything detailing related.
It was something to do, my partner and I like to take road trips and this one fit well enough for the day. That said, I probably wont go back.
 
Not directed you, but something I've noticed over the years on the topic of prep sprays.

Many overestimate how effective prep sprays are. In that I mean people using a few light mists per panel, wiping immediately and assuming that's good enough. In reality, you need to be generous, allow to dwell for 15 - 30 seconds, then wiping. That gives the product time to break down contaminants such as polish oils, skin oils, chemical residues etc. It's also why dedicated prep-sprays are superior in that they have a more controlled evaporation rate, home made IPA blends flash too quickly to be effective and can swell the clear coat.

Just something to keep in mind when you are using these products.
Makes complete sense. Since I have the liter, I am going to go heavy on the application. I also tend to trust gyeon prep more than some of the others ive tried. Ive gotten streaking from Gtechnics and the ADS prep, but never gyeon.
 
Many overestimate how effective prep sprays are.
That's why I've been intrigued by the primer polishes, especially the ones that say you don't need to use a prep spray/panel wipe, and can coat immediately. I also always point out that Adam of Adam's Polishes, during a "wash and talk" video at TRC, said he didn't believe in panel wipes, that coatings have solvents in the already, which was certainly a unique viewpoint.
 
I make my own panel prep. Alcohol/Distilled water/ SLS ( Sodium Laurel Sulphate ) waaaaaaaay cheaper than buying it and easy to make. If you notice the ones that can be bought are basically alcohol with a lubricant and some smell good added.
 
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