What did you do today non-detailing related?

[Tasmania]

I especially hate that sort of so-called "tradesmen". The do the "job" but don't actually "finish" the job. In your case, the mess they've left behind. And because skilled tradesman are in demand, so they have no incentive to be thorough because in their eyes, they're doing you a favour.



From someone who's been there and done that, the sooner you break free of this lopsided arrangement, the better you'll be. Stop letting them take advantage of your kindness and generosity. I know you are doing the right thing, but it's time to do the right thing for you, not the users of you.

Both my brother's tell me the same thing, They've got me hook line and Sinker I'm trying Deyon I really am even when they were there the lawns would get about 13 inches high before he would cut them.

Come this spring I'm going to bite my lip and say they will have to do the work instead of me doing mine and there place.

They do have a gardener the stuff that you do but his giving up on them
doesn't answer the phone or txt message.

 

[Big DaveBig Dave is verified member.]

Having two other brothers i was taught to look after my thing's and respect stuff, I've never seen anything like this before I know there lazy but it's just a shit show at the moment next door.

And when we discussed in December it could be April they move back in i was like that's so far away but it's gone in a blink of an eye 5 month nothing done until today and maybe 2 weeks where the cleaning guy's brought in fans and put up plastic drop sheets.

So maybe June they move back 7 month's, my neighbours know I'm getting frustrated and annoyed just wish they could me.

Put it this Dave if it was us and we said can you mow our lawns feed the cat and chickens......a firm no would be the answer.

Three times in the last year or so I've had conversations with retired guys complaining about doing their lawns, it's getting too hard for them, and their family won't come and help out, or the guy they get to do it doesn't mow it to their standard. I've managed to hold my tongue in each case, I'm no longer the volunteering type. Remember, no good deed goes unpunished.

 

[Tasmania]

Three times in the last year or so I've had conversations with retired guys complaining about doing their lawns, it's getting too hard for them, and their family won't come and help out, or the guy they get to do it doesn't mow it to their standard. I've managed to hold my tongue in each case, I'm no longer the volunteering type. Remember, no good deed goes unpunished.

I thought some good KARMA might finally come my way that window on my mums VW Amarok, WHAT A SHIT SHOW they tinted the window outside of the car before installing it.

And a week passed before I even had a look because I didn't want to get angry over the Easter period with family etc, etc

Had a look at it BLEW MY TOP scratches all over the bloody tint damage to the mental outside strip "HOW CAN YOU TINT LIKE THIS" you would think how STUPID must you be to pick up that piece of glass and go *Looks fine to me*

And when i leave a negative Google review they then want to fix the problem, This is what happens when the original owner's sell up after 35 years and add to that a small town with zero f*** giving it's just a job mentality.

This is why I've been MIA can't catch a break FML

 

[DFB]

I thought some good KARMA might finally come my way that window on my mums VW Amarok, WHAT A SHIT SHOW they tinted the window outside of the car before installing it.

And a week passed before I even had a look because I didn't want to get angry over the Easter period with family etc, etc

Had a look at it BLEW MY TOP scratches all over the bloody tint damage to the mental outside strip "HOW CAN YOU TINT LIKE THIS" you would think how STUPID must you be to pick up that piece of glass and go *Looks fine to me*

And when i leave a negative Google review they then want to fix the problem, This is what happens when the original owner's sell up after 35 years and add to that a small town with zero f*** giving it's just a job mentality.

This is why I've been MIA can't catch a break FML

I was wondering where you were at.

 

[DFB]

Some parts have begun arriving for the Rover Craftsman, namely the most important one, the lower oil seal. The one on it would be the original from 1986 and was leaking so badly that it had bathed the blade disk in oil.



Before removing the disk, I had syphoned the oil and fuel from the engine.

I didn't want to drop the oil pan to dig out the old seal, that would have required more work and considering its not leaking, I wanted to leave it alone. Either way, the blade disk and crankshaft adaptor needed to be removed. The disk was simple, one large 3/8 bolt and three 1/4 bolts. As I knew it would, the adaptor was frozen with rust. With a 3-leg puller attached, it wouldn't budge so I had to use the impact to buzz it off. The shear key was also rusted in place, which I needed a punch tap it free. I then removed the rust from the crankshaft with steel wool.

The oil on the carboard was what drained out with the seal STILL in place and the sump drained. Note the customary string wound around the shaft.



From here, I decided to remove the engine from the mower to improve access, its only three bolts and would make the trickiest part of this job much easier.



I've pulled seals before, done by driving a timber screw into the seal and levering out with a set of pliers. I'm not a fan of doing it that way, scratch the crankshaft and you've just destroyed an engine. A little online research and I came across this tool from Lisle, which at $34 I thought was quite a reasonable price, they are normally $70 at full retail. From what I can see, they were designed for camshaft seals.

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B000FPYW4K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&psc=1





These are super easy to use, simply hook the "blade" under the lip of the seal, position the lever arm, then apply downward pressure, the seal then pops free without damage to the shaft or journal. I was dreading this part, but the tool made it a breeze, no grazed knuckles, no obscene language required.

After making sure to clean everything down, I put some oil on the new seal, Breaks & Scrappem part number 495-002, then gently tapped it home. The blade boss and key were reinstalled with a little anti-sleaze, the engine then went back on the frame, followed by the blade carrier after it was cleaned of all the oil. 600ml of Penrite SAE30 (I think it had 10W30 in it), fuel, and a test fire. Success.

Next, I replaced the broken handle locks with some aftermarket replacements. While I was at it, buffed the chrome up with steel wool, which also removed the paint overspray. I would have liked the chunkier OEM type, but they are long obsolete.





The final step was to replace the leaking fuel cap. I scored a bunch of NOS fuel caps last year, so it would be rude not to gift it a new one. These were always supplied unpainted like this.





I've also done my best to remove the paint overspray from the engine and chassis, needed some Eulex to cut through it.

Still on the to-do list -

- Replace the generic throttle controller with a Rover type, I hate those "universal" ones.

- Replace the starter grip, the one on it is from an early Victa.

- Head job and decoke, need a head gasket before I do that. Will replace the spark plug afterwards.

- Wheels, of which I've ordered some brand-new ones with new hub caps. Will also do the axle bushing while I'm there.

- I think I'm going to replace the blade carrier and the mounting hardware, I'm not completely happy with their condition, better safe than sorry. New blades at the same time as well.

- New governor spring and air filter screw from NOS. I think someone has had a fiddle with the current spring, and the screw is all marked up and rusting.

- The catcher mesh needs repairing, of which I just use plastic gutter guard.

- I might also be getting a NOS muffler, not needed by why not.

Is it worth doing all this? With the exception of the oil seal, probably not. But that's not going to stop me.

 

[DFB]

Got rained out today, so I decided to repair the catcher mesh on the Craftsman. Being plastic and 40 years old, it had broken in a few places but was still attached to the catcher itself.



Looking at the period parts diagram, there were two versions of this mesh insert, A03228 was plastic, and A03517 was steel. Which you got would depend on trim level, Craftsman was clearly a lower end model owing to the basic single loop handle, screw type handle locks, smaller wheels, and............plastic catcher mesh. Of course, these parts are NLA, hence me repairing what I already have.

I've done this repair before, of which was aided by a roll of plastic gutter guard. There are several types sold at Bunning's, but this particular one has a smaller mesh size to prevent clippings from passing through.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/jack-180mm-x-8m-super-gutter-guard_p3040589



Two strips were cut to equal length, then joined together with cable ties to form the depth. From there, I stitch this patch piece onto the existing mesh. Not the proper repair I'd like, but the best I can do without searching for another catcher.................which would also likely need such a repair.





You can see all the oil splatter in the catcher, blown in there from the leaking crank seal.



With 76cm of mesh and 10 zip ties, all up the cost of this repair was about $2.50.

The most frustrating thing about "restoring" old Rover's is finding online parts manuals, especially these alloy 18-inch and 20-inch models from the 80's and early 90's. Actually, this applies to any Rover before MTD ruined everything like the vultures they are. I've been having to piece information together from several sources and semi-educated guesses, which all takes considerable time. The engine manuals are easy as they were commonly used across the globe and have massive aftermarket and manufacturer backup. But anything specific to Rover is like trying to find a needle in a haystack. Frustrating, but also part of the appeal.

I also set up my wall of Taryl stickers..................

 

[Big DaveBig Dave is verified member.]

I tidied up the messiest corner of the garage. I got an email with $10 credit from one of our auto chain stores, so I went online to find something for as close to $10 that I didn't really need. But I actually found something useful. The messiest corner was so small I couldn't fit any shelves in it, so I sort of had stuff stacked up, and leaning against the wall, just plain messy, and spiders were living there. I found a very small metal shelf unit that fit with less than inch to spare, and has a weight rating of 30kg per shelf, enough for what I needed. Now I have sore fingers from hand tightening 60+ little nuts, but it does look better. Edit to add it was just under $25 full price so I got it for less than $15.

 

[DFB]

As parts continue to roll in for the Rover Craftsman, I keep chipping away at getting it up to spec.

At some stage, someone had put a new rope handle on the vertical-pull recoil. I know that because they used an old Victa 2-Stroke handle. So what you say, it does the job. No, to a detail orientated person, I wanted the Briggs original.



The old Victa handle is a single piece design made from hard plastic, the type Briggs used for these vertical pull engines was a two-piece type made of firm rubber. These are now NLA from Briggs, but you can still get them aftermarket, in my case the GA Spares example.

Briggs & Stratton - 280036, 280121 (NLA)
GA Spares - STR963
Stens - 140-053





To install, you need to take the handle apart, removing the white inner section from the handle. After cutting the old knot and burning a new end on the rope, feed the handle onto the rope, followed by the inner section. Tie a knot and pull it firmly into the recess of the inner section, then snap the two pieces back together.







That tiny little change was oddly satisfying!

Next, replacement of the front axle bushes. I always replace these on any new (old) mower I get as I've had previous grief in that department. But why not the rear bushes as well? Because of how the rear axle is fixed to the chassis, I've found they never need replacement. On domestic-grade mowers like this, the front axle is mounted using wire retainer clips, which in turn wear and fatigue over time. On professional-grade lawn mowers, each axle mounting is bolted to the chassis, in turn limiting wear caused by excessive flex.

In this case, the front end was feeling sloppy, which I attributed to worn out wheel bearings and the axles bushes. I've decided to put new wheels on the mower instead of just bearings, so for now I'm sorting the axles. I'm glad I did because they were quite worn, I also replaced the retainers as a precaution.

Bushes - A03450
Retainers - A03442



This is why aluminium chassis mowers are the superior machine. The axle recesses are far more durable than a pressed steel chassis, and in turn gives you a higher level of tolerance to worn out bushes. Go too far with a steel deck and it's off to the junk yard. Ask me how I know.





Those bushes worked wonders, they took out 95% of the slop.

From here, I'm now waiting for more parts. Actually, I've found various small engine parts suppliers to be very slow at processing orders. One in particular is pretty good, but they don't actually have a storefront to man like the others. However, because I'm ordering obscure parts for old machines, I'm having to get what I can where I can. Most of those are mower shops who have an online store as a side hustle. Frustrating because I could have finished the mower and be cutting grass by now. At the moment, I'm waiting on a new blade carrier and mounting bolts, I don't really trust the 40-year-old originals, and I want that sorted before I start using it.

 

[DFB]

Just came across this TV commercial from 1987. Have to laugh at them comparing an entry level Briggs & Stratton-powered lawn mower to a German perfection Porsche 911. For whatever reason, Australian-based companies (including the American-owned car manufacturers) always seem to make European comparisons rather than leaning into what made "our" products unique. European anything was (is?) considered superior.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

For whatever reason, Australian-based companies (including the American-owned car manufacturers) always seem to make European comparisons rather than leaning into what made "our" products unique. European anything was (is?) considered superior.

I'm sure I've told this story before, but I have a friend whose father worked for an NGO, and so he lived in various places overseas until Jr. High, when his father finished his foreign postings. When we got to driving age in high school, he expressed his amazement at our reverence in the US for Mercedes Benz as a luxury brand; "everywhere I lived overseas they used them as taxicabs".

We had the same thing here with imported beers...grass is always greener, etc.

 

[DFB]

I'm sure I've told this story before, but I have a friend whose father worked for an NGO, and so he lived in various places overseas until Jr. High, when his father finished his foreign postings. When we got to driving age in high school, he expressed his amazement at our reverence in the US for Mercedes Benz as a luxury brand; "everywhere I lived overseas they used them as taxicabs".

We had the same thing here with imported beers...grass is always greener, etc.

Same happens here with the Mustang. So many think they are getting some sort of high-end sports car, especially considering the prices Ford asks for them these days. But...........................they are a glorified rental car, and the quality reflects that.

 

[DFB]

This was a job I had planned for later in the week, but I just couldn't help myself.

The blade carrier and the four mounting bolts on the Craftsman were heavily corroded and not something I was confident trusting. The blades had been sharpened, but they are cheap enough that I decided to just replace them too and start from fresh.



So, for peace of mind, I went ahead and ordered a new blade carrier disk with a set of replacement mounting hardware. I had also put a few witness marks on the 3/8" central bolt when removing the boss from the crankshaft, and the three smaller bolts with spring washers have a habit of snapping in the boss, so replacing those was preventative. The kit includes a new woodruff key, but I wasn't removing the blade boss again to do that.

Rover Blade Disk - AO1022 or BLH264 (GA Spares)
Rover Blade Boss Repair Kit - BLH280 (GA Spares)
Rover Blade & Bolt Kit (4) - A03830 or BNC6336
Rover D-Washers (4) - AO1025 (From NOS)





While fiddly to align, I much prefer the design Rover went with on these carriers. Firstly, it prevents misalignment compared to the Victa design, which uses locating ears on the boss with a corresponding shape in the disk. On the Rover, run down the large 3/8" bolt into the crankshaft by hand, then align the disk using the small 1/4" bolts, the rattle all four tight. Secondly, you have a degree of redundancy. Both Honda and Bushranger use the same four bolt design.



I then turned my attention to the throttle. The previous owner had recently installed a universal throttle controller and cable. Apart from it not being the OE design, I just don't like those throttle controllers. If look at the image below, they have a mild ratcheting function, which in use makes the lever action stiff. So, replacing this was equal parts functionality and looks.

Rover Throttle Controller - A00950K
Rover 54" Cable - A03249, A03106 or CAC460



If you were wondering why I didn't just swap the cable over to a Rover throttle controller, well that's what I had planned on doing until I realized Rover-specific cables are different to most. Firstly, the universal cable has a pressed retailer so that it holds the cable snugly in the controller. The Rover controller can't accept that. Now, you could remove that retainer, but then there is another Rover quirk to contend with, and something I didn't even know about until now.

All throttle cables sold as being specific to Rover have what looks to be a manufacturing defect on one end, circled in red below. In essence, this is basically a few loops of the outer cable folded outward. Well, what looks to be poor workmanship is actually intentional. Those folded loops press into a recess within the controller housing and basically lock the cable in place, preventing it from coming adrift of the controller when in use.





With the correct length and throw of the new cable, and the specific Rover controller, this setup works so much smoother and well worth the time and effort getting this right. I always used to think those little Rover throttle controllers were cheap compared to what other companies went with, but I've since come to appreciate them. They are simple, smooth and easy to operate, not over designed for the sake of marketing prestige. You could probably say the same for mowers in general.

From here, I'm waiting on new wheels and a head gasket. Once I've pulled the head to de-carbon, I will replace the spark plug and retune the carb. At the moment, it's got a fair bit of hesitation going from idle to full throttle, which a retune should remedy. I also need to pull the blower shroud and inspect/clean the cylinder fins, checking the inlet manifold is tight while I'm in there (they back out over time). Then it will be ready to cut some grass!