What dilution of ONR for pre-soak?

Aeromotive

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Hi all,

Planning to use ONR as a pre-soak (with a manual pump sprayer) before using the "Garry Dean" method... what's the preferred dilution ratio?

Thanks.
 
I always use the normal dilution for any kind of presoak, but I'm in the minority. I think I'm probably also in the minority in saying that presoak never really seems to do much for me.
 
I used to presoak @ 1:16. Now I just do a quick hose rinse then pull into the garage and do the rinseless wash
 
ONR quick detail spray is 8oz per gallon however that doesnt mean you have to do that dilution ratio.

Onr is 1oz per 2 gallon so you can make a gallon of water and add half a oz for a pre soak mix.

Me personally i would add 1oz per gallon and you can have a designated pre soak spray.
 
Thanks... so I guess there's no real consensus.

Another question : does anybody here pre-soak the entire car before washing instead of one or two panel(s) at a time?
 
Thanks... so I guess there's no real consensus.

Another question : does anybody here pre-soak the entire car before washing instead of one or two panel(s) at a time?

If I do a car thats got a lot of road film I spray a panel at a time with happy bug 1:9 diluted (nanoskin) and let it work for a minute or two depending on temps then I spray it down with ONR diluted 1/2 oz per gallon in a pump garden pressure sprayer until the ONR is running down the panel then do the "garry dean" way you are talking about. I also use the ONR in the sprayer to rinse wheels after cleaning them. It works well
 
Thanks... so I guess there's no real consensus.

Another question : does anybody here pre-soak the entire car before washing instead of one or two panel(s) at a time?

I presoak the entire car when it's "cool" outside because it won't evaporate off. If it's hot, you're better off doing a few panels at a time so it doesn't dry up before you get to them. If you're in direct sunlight then you might need to do one panel at a time.
 
I just find presoaking with a pump sprayer doesn't really take anything off, it seems like a waste of time.
 
I just find presoaking with a pump sprayer doesn't really take anything off, it seems like a waste of time.

I like to think it helps loosen the dirts bond and rinses 'some' grime off.
I use the guesstimate oz per gallon method depending how much dirt is on the car. D114 in a gallon pump sprayer all goes on the car for my pre-soak.
This is done in a garage.

No disrespect Setec, but do you just wipe dry paint with the rinseless Micros?
 
No disrespect Setec, but do you just wipe dry paint with the rinseless Micros?

It's not dry, it's lubricated with rinseless wash. You guys should listen to yourselves, one of the posters in this thread says he does two different presoaks before he washes...why not three? Or four?

In the old days I would only do rinseless during the winter when it was just above freezing and using a hose was impractical and would leave too much water on the driveway which would freeze later. I used to use the pump-up sprayer and go around the car to spray the salt and crap off the side of the car...the only thing was nothing would really come off. A pressure washer or a sharp stream from a hose is a different story, and I'm sure you can rinse off some dust or pollen with a pump-up sprayer.

Maybe this is heresy, but if I drive my car stuff is going to happen. I'm going to get rock chips, bird crap, the car is going to get dirty and then have to be washed. The only way I'm going to keep it perfect is keeping it in the garage...and even then I had an electrician knock something over into it, and I had a jack handle fall over and hit it.

So I'm going to wash it in a way that makes sense to me, because even if I do 4 presoaks I'm probably going to mar it in some microscopic amount because it has dirt on it and I'm going to be rubbing things against it to clean it. I'm not convinced that pre-soaking helps any...it seems like it should but my experience is that it doesn't. I decided a long time ago that actually trying to keep my car perfect was going to put me in a mental institution or on suicide watch, so I do the best I can and try not to go too crazy...and I don't have a black car.

And don't worry about disrespecting me, I'm not sure I have done anything to garner your respect other than post a lot of nonsense on this forum which is probably all wrong, anyway. I just listened to an Optimum podcast yesterday that said if you wash ur MF's in water over 140F it will fuse your towels. Then I researched how hot an electric dryer gets and it can get up to 400F or something, and since I always wash my MF's on hot and dry on high, my towels are all fused anyway, and now I know why I can't walk in my polyester leisure suit anymore because it's all fused together. So don't listen to me.
 
SA, while I agree some people take ridiculous cautions, you're also underestimating the abilities of modern products. There's plenty of videos testing the scratch resistance of all sorts of products, definitely of no rinse products. It's proven when done correctly they will leave no scratches.
 
Hi all,

Planning to use ONR as a pre-soak (with a manual pump sprayer) before using the "Garry Dean" method... what's the preferred dilution ratio?

Use whatever their recoomended wash ratio is. I have some ONR in the garage but I've switched over to Wolfgang Uber and haven't touched ONR Since.

I do complete a presoak and rinse of the entire vehicle, but in mid summer with very hot temps, I do the top first then each side seperately as the water tends to begin to evaporate quickly.

I use a powered sprayer shown below as it provides plenty of power to move dust and loose debris right off the surface. I also spray the sides in a left to right from top to bottom motion and work my way down once the water begins to roll to the floor/ground taking dust with it.

Its not so much about trying to soak and 'break loose' bonded contaminants, it's about having plenty of solution on the car that it combines with the massive amount of liquid held by my 480gsm Eagle Edgeless towels to also flush away contaminants so I'm left with less of them on my car/towel as I work my way through the panel.

My Washer:



My Traditional Sprayer that see some use too:




One Nasty Dirty Van:



Here is the vehicle being pre-soaked:



She's 10yrs old and enjoys a Rinseless Wash but occasionally gets a traditional hose/bucket cleaning

 
SA, while I agree some people take ridiculous cautions, you're also underestimating the abilities of modern products. There's plenty of videos testing the scratch resistance of all sorts of products, definitely of no rinse products. It's proven when done correctly they will leave no scratches.

Agree 200%.

People are blown away when they see me at Cars and Coffee and hear that the vehicle is washed only using a modified Gary Dean method via a Rinseless system. When done properly there's little to no risk for scratches. IMO it's actually far safer than a traditional wash. To-date I've not found that my rinseless system has ever introduced marring into the paint. I do also feel a BIG part of that is that I keep both vehicles fully protected and well coated with quality products.
 
SA, while I agree some people take ridiculous cautions, you're also underestimating the abilities of modern products. There's plenty of videos testing the scratch resistance of all sorts of products, definitely of no rinse products. It's proven when done correctly they will leave no scratches.

I think maybe it's the others that are underestimating the abilities of modern products, I am using them as intended. I don't believe any of my bottles of rinseless (I think I have 6 if you count 2 different versions of regular ONR) say anything about presoaking. I've been using rinseless since 2004, before they even made ONR.
 
Touche Setec.

I do get a little carried away but it makes me sleep better. I stress but not all that much about it.
Hell, it's a 12-13 year old Gm car with a spoiler that didn't get enough paint on the edges.
I just did my first Gloss Coat application on it to try and glue it back together.
 
Touche Setec.

I do get a little carried away but it makes me sleep better. I stress but not all that much about it.
Hell, it's a 12-13 year old Gm car with a spoiler that didn't get enough paint on the edges.
I just did my first Gloss Coat application on it to try and glue it back together.

Hey, you can never be too careful, I'm just too old and tired to be that careful. If you listen to Dr. G or Yvan from Optimum, the way to use ONR is a single bucket, which I almost never do unless the car is really clean, although today I did a semi-mobile single bucket wash because I had to.
 
I'm probably going to mar it in some microscopic amount because it has dirt on it and I'm going to be rubbing things against it to clean it.

I think maybe it's the others that are underestimating the abilities of modern products, I am using them as intended. I don't believe any of my bottles of rinseless (I think I have 6 if you count 2 different versions of regular ONR) say anything about presoaking. I've been using rinseless since 2004, before they even made ONR.

I was just speaking about that quote directly. You are right about it being others, they were taking extra steps and all you said was you just follow the instructions, nothing extra added. Just wanted to clear up that there's plenty of evidence that no scratching will be done so long as it's done right.

6 months of only rinseless washes, on a protected paint*

Wash dilution*** ONR as pre-spray
 
For those who are still on the fence about rinseless/waterless washing.....

...and be sure to read the part about the car washed only by the above methods for over 15 months...and scratch free. Mike Stoops' words, not mine. Pretty impressive bit of information that fits right in with this discussion.




I have plenty of normal car soap on hand, but I'm so impressed by using good technique and quality rinseless methods that once my stash of soap is gone I may never buy normal car soap again. Until then, I've got enough to last a decade... and now that I'm going "suds-less" the car soap will likely eat through the containers before it all gets used. LOL!! :)
 
It's not dry, it's lubricated with rinseless wash. You guys should listen to yourselves, one of the posters in this thread says he does two different presoaks before he washes...why not three? Or four?

In the old days I would only do rinseless during the winter when it was just above freezing and using a hose was impractical and would leave too much water on the driveway which would freeze later. I used to use the pump-up sprayer and go around the car to spray the salt and crap off the side of the car...the only thing was nothing would really come off. A pressure washer or a sharp stream from a hose is a different story, and I'm sure you can rinse off some dust or pollen with a pump-up sprayer.

Maybe this is heresy, but if I drive my car stuff is going to happen. I'm going to get rock chips, bird crap, the car is going to get dirty and then have to be washed. The only way I'm going to keep it perfect is keeping it in the garage...and even then I had an electrician knock something over into it, and I had a jack handle fall over and hit it.

So I'm going to wash it in a way that makes sense to me, because even if I do 4 presoaks I'm probably going to mar it in some microscopic amount because it has dirt on it and I'm going to be rubbing things against it to clean it. I'm not convinced that pre-soaking helps any...it seems like it should but my experience is that it doesn't. I decided a long time ago that actually trying to keep my car perfect was going to put me in a mental institution or on suicide watch, so I do the best I can and try not to go too crazy...and I don't have a black car.

And don't worry about disrespecting me, I'm not sure I have done anything to garner your respect other than post a lot of nonsense on this forum which is probably all wrong, anyway. I just listened to an Optimum podcast yesterday that said if you wash ur MF's in water over 140F it will fuse your towels. Then I researched how hot an electric dryer gets and it can get up to 400F or something, and since I always wash my MF's on hot and dry on high, my towels are all fused anyway, and now I know why I can't walk in my polyester leisure suit anymore because it's all fused together. So don't listen to me.

I've been listening to that podcast too. Gotta meet Dann one of these days since I live in San Diego. However I thought I read somewhere residential hot water doesn't get hot enough to harm MF. Yvan seems like he researches things pretty thoroughly though.
 
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