What does everyone charge for head light restorations?

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Detailed Josh

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Trying to see what everyone charges for head light restorations.

I'm going to finish with Opti-Lens so with the cost of that (I still have yet to see how many drops/thick to spread the stuff on?) I'm thinking of charging $60/pair? Is that too high, too low?
 
The self kits are 20 ea,,,, but someone might go 40 just to not have to do it themselves.
 
beamerstrumpet said:
The self kits are 20 ea,,,, but someone might go 40 just to not have to do it themselves.
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Well there's a HUGE difference in quality and durability between those DIY cheapie "head light kits" and the real process of the sanding, compounding, polishing, and the big advantage over the cheapie kits the use of some strong UV protection which I'm going with Opti-Lens as I'm aiming for high quality. As if you don't do a UV protection you've just accelerated the yellowing process to happening again FASTER. So educating those is going be in need for mention those DIY cheap kits.

IID said:
Bingo :xyxthumbs:
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Is that what you charge, or just agreeing? haha
 
Detailed Josh said:
Well there's a HUGE difference in quality and durability between those DIY cheapie "head light kits" and the real process of the sanding, compounding, polishing, and the big advantage over the cheapie kits the use of some strong UV protection which I'm going with Opti-Lens as I'm aiming for high quality. As if you don't do a UV protection you've just accelerated the yellowing process to happening again FASTER. So educating those is going be in need for mention those DIY cheap kits.



Is that what you charge, or just agreeing? haha
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Ummmm,yeah....Both
 
goldenlight said:
No more then $60 if your doing all that,
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No more than $60? Pffffttt... I won't touch a pair (topping with OL) for less than $75 to me, (and that gives the referring shop $10), basically $84.95 up to $129.95 (and the shop gets $20 on that one). If they come to me, (IE I don't have to leave my place) I *might* do $65.

There is a difference between a hack that calls themselves a 'detailer' and someone that actually IS a detailer.

I was speaking with a guy today at Northern Tool, (my big pressure washer blew out the sight glass) ordering parts. Turns out he's got a black G35 that's all swirled out. He was asking me questions about what to use, what I used, what HE COULD GET (like OTC) and then one thing lead to another. Next thing he's looking at photos in my phone of different stuff I've done. That lead to more questions, and more answers. By then he was really getting into taking notes as to what to use, where to look, etc. (AG, CarPro, Optimum, even Duragloss, and OF COURSE, Meguiar's). ;)

But what really came out of the conversation was he started to understand what people do that are passionate about detailing. He's used to seeing guys that come out and WASH cars, not that *detail* cars. Once he started to understand, and as we talked about different procedures, he realized he didn't know ANYTHING about how to take care of his paint. And... that he really WANTED to learn more!

Of course that also meant he realized he isn't equipped to do what he wants, but he is going to for a decent paint correction towards the end of the month. I just can't get to it now... trying to get ready for my daughters wedding in 2 weeks! (I've been forbidden to bring any weekend work home the next two weeks.) :eek:
 
Detailed Josh said:
Well there's a HUGE difference in quality and durability between those DIY cheapie "head light kits" and the real process of the sanding, compounding, polishing...a
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I don't think he meant the cheapie kits, I think he was referring to the 3M kit on here that's $20. It comes with the backplate for your drill, sanding discs, polishing pad, and polish.
 
Well that kit is better than the really cheap ones I'm referring to, but like I noted above what separates an ok job (WILL fail again) from a great job is the use of some type of UV protection. Opti-Lens is permanent so you also don't have to keep re-applying, but there are obviously different levels one could go for UV protection if you don't choose Opti-Lens.

Which once again talking about that kit only is great. If you're willing to buy it, the drill, UV protection, and do it yourself...just as anything else. We all here would do it ourselves, but I'm talking about potential clients.
 
cardaddy said:
No more than $60? Pffffttt... I won't touch a pair (topping with OL) for less than $75 to me, (and that gives the referring shop $10), basically $84.95 up to $129.95 (and the shop gets $20 on that one). If they come to me, (IE I don't have to leave my place) I *might* do $65.

There is a difference between a hack that calls themselves a 'detailer' and someone that actually IS a detailer.

I was speaking with a guy today at Northern Tool, (my big pressure washer blew out the sight glass) ordering parts. Turns out he's got a black G35 that's all swirled out. He was asking me questions about what to use, what I used, what HE COULD GET (like OTC) and then one thing lead to another. Next thing he's looking at photos in my phone of different stuff I've done. That lead to more questions, and more answers. By then he was really getting into taking notes as to what to use, where to look, etc. (AG, CarPro, Optimum, even Duragloss, and OF COURSE, Meguiar's). ;)

But what really came out of the conversation was he started to understand what people do that are passionate about detailing. He's used to seeing guys that come out and WASH cars, not that *detail* cars. Once he started to understand, and as we talked about different procedures, he realized he didn't know ANYTHING about how to take care of his paint. And... that he really WANTED to learn more!

Of course that also meant he realized he isn't equipped to do what he wants, but he is going to for a decent paint correction towards the end of the month. I just can't get to it now... trying to get ready for my daughters wedding in 2 weeks! (I've been forbidden to bring any weekend work home the next two weeks.) :eek:
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I have had customers buy the 3m Headlight restoration kit and still came to me after using it. They felt that they weren't getting the desired results and were scared to push the limits.


OP I charge $75 a pair and seal the headlights with Opti-Lens. I coated 6 pairs of headlights using my last tube bringing the cost per application to roughly $10 dollars. Depending on how bad the headlights are you are looking at 2-3 hours of labor plus expenses (gloves, IPA, masking tape, polish, sand paper, etc).

If you charge $60 for a headlight restoration after expenses ($15) and taxes you could be making as little as $10.50 an hour. Charging $75 for a headlight restoration bumps your earnings up to $14 an hour. Headlight restorations are not my most profitable detailing service however they do make a good add-on.
 
Maybe I got lucky. I cleaned my 2006 Nissan lights in 15 minutes with a dual action polisher using ult polish. Sealed the lights. I only have to repolish the lights once a year.
 
Phathooddetail said:
i do headlights for at least $75 a pair when i get that add-on rolling again. If your repairs look like this then thats what you need to charge Headlight Restoration | Absolute Perfection Auto Detailing - Goldsboro, NC
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Those headlights are pretty cloudy and definitely require a lot of work to restore. Check out this 50/50 picture from a pair of 11 year old headlights that I recently restored. Headlight Restoration - Critical Details Blog

IMG_2569.JPG


Headlight Restoration - Auto Detailing: 2000 Acura, RL - YouTube
 
I charge $60.00 for both.
IMO its the easiest way to make money.
I can't tell you how many I see that are horrible when I travel to and from work.

I sometimes tell the customer I'll do them for free with a full paint correction , they often bite:)
 
Kyle_Elantra said:
I don't think he meant the cheapie kits, I think he was referring to the 3M kit on here that's $20. It comes with the backplate for your drill, sanding discs, polishing pad, and polish.
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Thank You. I was referring to any potential customer who will say "You charge too much" I also talked to a guy at work who is of the belief that his lights are getting ruined from the inside. He didn't want to learn how it is really done or do the sanding. "I have had that kit from the auto store in my car for a while but not messed with it." He also said he has a black T/A. He seems to be one of the too cheep to go for a resto, likes to talk but has not shown me anything yet on any of the things he says he has or has done. I just smile and nod. No need to be rude. Maybe he will be a first later on.
 
beamerstrumpet said:
Thank You. I was referring to any potential customer who will say "You charge too much" I also talked to a guy at work who is of the belief that his lights are getting ruined from the inside. .
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On my 90 Ford Ranger they are ruined from the inside. They are full of condensation. I did the outside but my lights are dim and yellow. I can see all of the condensation on the inside. Short of replacing the lights, I'm not sure how to fix.
 
I charge the same rate for almost every service I offer, which is $40/hour (exceptions for upgrades like OC, 22ple, etc which I charge a flat rate for). This makes it fair to my customers so that everyone is paying equally for the same amount of work, and I don't get screwed if something takes significantly longer time than expected.
 
Spiney said:
On my 90 Ford Ranger they are ruined from the inside. They are full of condensation. I did the outside but my lights are dim and yellow. I can see all of the condensation on the inside. Short of replacing the lights, I'm not sure how to fix.
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OUCH wish I had an answer for that one. my guess is that it is now a whole replacement of the lense. I would guess a seall has gotten craked/weatherd and that has let in the condensation that then heated up and became steam and has promoted the yellowing, but that is a guess, so dont hold me to the coals if I am not corrent LOLOL :)
 
You can put them in the oven to "bake", meaning to let the glue melt.

Pull them apart and clean them. Then reseal them with silicone.

If you Google this you'll find more info, but I've done it in the past with great success.
 
Kyle_Elantra said:
You can put them in the oven to "bake", meaning to let the glue melt.

Pull them apart and clean them. Then reseal them with silicone.

If you Google this you'll find more info, but I've done it in the past with great success.
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You can use a heat gun too to soften the adhesive.
 
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