What is Iron X and why should I use it?

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What is Iron X and why should I use it?


What is Iron X?
Iron X is a product used to chemically remove iron particles off your car by dissolving the particles.


Why should I use it?
Chemically decontaminating the paint with a product like Iron X is part of a proper detail job especially when working on an older car that is parked outside.

Mechanically decontaminating the paint can remove some iron contamination as you are physically rubbing something against the paint, tools like detailing clay or products from Nanoskin and Optimum Polymer Technologies. These options are no where near as effective and thorough as chemically removing the iron contamination.


Car Insurance Analogy
Using Iron X is like buying car insurance. While you never want to actually have to need to use car insurance you certainly appreciate having when its is needed.

When you use Iron X you don't' actually want to see the bleeding effect as this means your car is contaminated and contamination means deterioration has been taking place. That's not a good thing. It's better to use it and see nothing as that means your car was not contaminated. That's a good thing.

If your car is contaminated then Iron X is the first step in a two step process to decontaminate the paint and properly prepare the paint for machine or hand polishing.


My buddy Jay detailed this car for his sister after she bought it from the original owner.

The original owner parked it next to a sprinkler that covered the car with heavy iron contaminated water for years.


Look closely.... it's not just the paint that is bleeding it's also the glass and plastic surfaces which are bleeding red. This is a sign of extreme iron contamination.

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On Autogeek.net

Iron X 500 ml



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The normal order to use Iron X

This is how I use Iron X. You can modify this approach to suit your own tastes.


1. Spray car down with Iron X and let it dwell for a few minutes but not long enough to dry on the car.

2. Foam car using foam gun

3. Wash car using microfiber chenille wash mitt and assoted brushes.

4. After rinsing thoroughly, mechanically decontaminate the paint using products intended for this step by Nanoskin or Optimum Polymer Technologies.

5. Rinse car thoroughly.

6. Dry car.


The above is how I wash a car before I'm going to machine buff the paint. Each step is crucial to a proper detail.

Just to note, I always wash the wheels and tires first and then wash the car. To see my approach for washing the wheels on any car see this article.

How to wash Ferrari Wheels and Tires

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:)
 
I like Mike's recommended sequence of application. Iron X, let it dwell a little, foam gun, wash and rinse well then nanoskin. Looks like a time saver step for me and might possibly enhance the effectiveness of the chemical interaction of the Iron X.

Compared to the sequence i was doing...foam gun wash, rinse, iron X (as a seperate step after the wash) then clay/nanoskin this new sequence can hasten the time it takes me to get to dessert i.e. machine buffing!
 
Great write up Mike. I have used Iron-x and like you I believe it to be an integral part of the detail process. I have one question, your sequence of steps indicates spraying the whole car down then spray before washing. The instructions indicate letting it dwell for 3-5 minutes before rinsing and not to let dry. My question is, I have a full size pick-up and I live in Phoenix, AZ, not sure I can spray the whole truck in 3-5 minutes, before the first sections dry. what to do? To be safe, I have done it by section, rinsing each section between 3-5 minutes, am I being over cautious?
 
Great write up Mike. I have used Iron-x and like you I believe it to be an integral part of the detail process.

Just to make sure there's no confusion with other people that will read this into the future,

I wrote,

Mike Phillips said:
1. Spray car down with Iron X and let it dwell for a few minutes but not long enough to dry on the car.

2. Foam car using foam gun

3. Wash car using microfiber chenille wash mitt and assoted brushes.

4. After rinsing thoroughly, mechanically decontaminate the paint using products intended for this step by Nanoskin or Optimum Polymer Technologies.

5. Rinse car thoroughly.

6. Dry car.


So just so I'm clear, I've only had one cup of coffee so far this morning),


I have one question, your sequence of steps indicates,

spraying the whole car down <-- with Iron X

then spray before washing. <-- with DP's Xtreme Foam Formula Auto Shampoo.

So my two times of spraying the car down is with two different products. Not spraying the car down twice with Iron X.

That's what I meant. Is that what you thought I meant? :)



The instructions indicate letting it dwell for 3-5 minutes before rinsing and not to let dry.

Correct. I wrote a few minutes instead of 3-4 because it's all close enough to be good. The big picture is the manufacturer recommends not leting the product dry on the paint so the dwell time is probably fluid depending upon surrounding climate.


My question is, I have a full size pick-up and I live in Phoenix, AZ, not sure I can spray the whole truck in 3-5 minutes, before the first sections dry. what to do?

Buy a smaller truck? :D (just kidding)


To be safe, I have done it by section, rinsing each section between 3-5 minutes, am I being over cautious?

I have the same problem here in Stuart, Florida. That is it's often times windy and the air moving over the car tends to dry the Iron X faster than no wind. It can also be warm to hot out even through the winter so the heat tends to cause the Iron X to dry faster than I like.

What I do for smaller vehicles is hustle and do the car all at once.

For larger rigs like my own truck, a full size 1987 Silverado, I break the truck up into sections.

Make sense?

Good questions, happy to do my best to clarify...


:)
 
Mike,
Those pictures in post #1 are INSANE! They illustrate why Iron X is an important product to have.
I also like the TRIX, Tar and Iron remover spray.

Thank you for the post.

Steve
 
Mike,

just to clarify, are you spraying Iron X onto a dry surface or something that might already be wet, especially if you are doing this after cleaning the wheels. Just want to make sure I understand correctly.

Thanks.
 
Just to make sure there's no confusion with other people that will read this into the future,

I wrote,




So just so I'm clear, I've only had one cup of coffee so far this morning),




So my two times of spraying the car down is with two different products. Not spraying the car down twice with Iron X.

That's what I meant. Is that what you thought I meant? :)





Correct. I wrote a few minutes instead of 3-4 because it's all close enough to be good. The big picture is the manufacturer recommends not leting the product dry on the paint so the dwell time is probably fluid depending upon surrounding climate.




Buy a smaller truck? :D (just kidding)




I have the same problem here in Stuart, Florida. That is it's often times windy and the air moving over the car tends to dry the Iron X faster than no wind. It can also be warm to hot out even through the winter so the heat tends to cause the Iron X to dry faster than I like.

What I do for smaller vehicles is hustle and do the car all at once.

For larger rigs like my own truck, a full size 1987 Silverado, I break the truck up into sections.

Make sense?

Good questions, happy to do my best to clarify...


:)

Thanks Mike as Ricky Ricardo would say, that splains it.
 
Lies asked above, what's the best way to apply it. To a dry dirty car, and let it work then power wash off then foam the car? Or to spray off the car to remove all loose dirt and grime then spray on the iorn x? Thanks
 
Mike,

just to clarify, are you spraying Iron X onto a dry surface or something that might already be wet, especially if you are doing this after cleaning the wheels.


Just want to make sure I understand correctly.

Thanks.


I spray the Iron X onto a dry surface if I'm already planning on buffing out the paint. This is approach is in keeping wiht my practice of only claying or using tools like Nanoskin products if I'm already planning on buffing out the paint. See my comment down below about how the cars I work on, at least when doing this type of work are already in bad condition and I post the "bad condition" shots below to.


I used to wash the car first to remove any loose dirt so it's r-e-m-o-v-e-d off the car and out of the way so the Iron X can go right to work without a layer of dirt in the way impeding the chemical reaction.

After using Iron X over time I found leaving the dirt on the car helped to trap the Iron X ONTO the car so it doesn't simply run off and onto the car. The dirt film helps to provide what's called dwell time.

PLUS - Often time I share pictures on the forum and if you look at any of my Iron X pictures I tend to use very neglected white cars as this shows the bleeding effect in the most dramatic manner.

It's the picture impact that has so much value.

Now knowing this... for pictures purposes, it also helps to spray the Iron X onto a dirty, dry car.

As I stated in post #2 - the first sentence after the caption,



Mike Phillips said:
This is how I use Iron X.

You can modify this approach to suit your own tastes.



When cleaning the wheels and specifically rinsing the wheels and wheel wells, I just be careful not to be a slob about it and get water everywhere.


In this write-up here, note that these pictures were taken at my last Detailing Boot Camp Class so this means I'm teaching the wheels first approach and the students are learning the wheels first then the car order of washing a car.

The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

When they were rinsing the wheels off

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they actually sprayed some water onto the car. The pictures I didn't take or have taken was the picture of me gently patting the water spray off the hood to remove it so I could get these dramatic pictures.



Start at the top and work your way down
After washing the wheels and tires first, next start at the top and work your way down. This is also explained in detail in my first two books.


Bleeding like a Stuck Pig
The first step for our aggressive approach is to chemically decontaminate the paint using Iron X. Here you can see the white paint on this Camaro bleeding like a stuck pig.

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After the Iron X does its thing --> you <-- can rinse it off and then wash the car.

Me?

If I'm washing a car that is this contaminated this means I'm also going to buff it out or it's going to get buffed out in a class I'm teaching so I don't really care if the Iron X is rinsed off first and then the car is washed or if while the Iron X is still on the car we foam it and then wash it BECAUSE we're going to buff it out anyway.

And the even bigger pictures is these cars I work on personally, or the cars I use for my classes are usually already starting out in trashed condition so it's not like I'm making anything worse. They are already worse.

Here's what we did next to the above car.....




Use the Foam Gun to Foam the Car
Next we use the foam gun to slather the car's body panels with car wash foam.

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And when I say this car was in bad condition before we started here's the picture documentation....


2002 SS Camaro Extreme Makeover! - Pictures & Comments



Photography tip for discussion forums....
First frame-up your shot so your audience knows what the heck you're actually taking pictures of for your article. In this example it's a 2000 SS Camaro with a white basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.

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Photography Tip - Use a reference point when cropping pictures
When cropping out the fluff, do it in a way to still include some type of reference point in the picture so your audience will know what section of the car you're showcasing.

In this example I showing the cobweb swirls, spiderweb swirls and scratches to the right side of the air scoop on the hood so I include enough detail so the audience can easily understand the location of the defects.

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Photography Tip - Zoom in and take a close-up shot of the defects you what to share
After capturing the frame of reference shot, THEN zoom in and get the close-up shot. Without the frame of reference shots the close-ups don't has as much impact.

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In the below pictures you'll see the shot framed-up and then I'll zoom in to highlight the defects.

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The power in the after shot is in the before shot
Showing pictures of a beautifully detailed car is great. Lots of people do it. The intense impact is lacking however if you don't also show your starting point, that is the before shots.

The above pictures show cobweb swirls, spiderweb swirls and scratches as well as provide some tips on how to use your camera to capture accurate examples of defects in paint when writing an article to showcase your detailing talent.

If you're in business to make money, sharing your work via before and after pictures on a discussion forum, Facebook, Reddit, Instagram, your own website or blog is a great way to demonstrate to future potential customers that you can be trusted to do the job right when they hire you.

You can also separate yourself from all your competition that cannot or will not document their work using quality pictures.

Good photography skills can be just as powerful of a tool as the skills you possess to use a buffer so practice till you hone your skills and then share your work.


And of course, the car came out amazing....


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So my approach works for me. Everyone can find a way that works for them. Some of the approaches I use might not work for other people and I'm okay with that as the saying goes, there' more ways than one to skin a cat.

Plus, some people are NOT working on cars that are neglected for years and basically trashed, so everyone needs to use their own common sense and if in doubt....

Start a thread asking for help on this forum. This forum is a tool just like Iron X.


Hope that helps...

:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks as this info has set me straight and I will be using it more often
 
Thanks for the write up Mike! I recently started a thread about IronX and got the usual great responses to it, this was also great reading for me.

I really bought IronX out of curiosity, to see how it would work on wheels but the more I think about it I may use it come spring to do a spring detail. I'm really trying to keep my car up during these winter monthes, but I wonder, how do I really know if I should use IronX on my car? I use my Speedy Prep Towel about every 4-6 weeks as regular maintenence to keep the paint cleaned up, what do you think:confused:

Sent from my SPH-M930 using Tapatalk 2
 
Thanks for the write up Mike! I recently started a thread about IronX and got the usual great responses to it, this was also great reading for me.

I really bought IronX out of curiosity, to see how it would work on wheels but the more I think about it I may use it come spring to do a spring detail. I'm really trying to keep my car up during these winter monthes, but I wonder, how do I really know if I should use IronX on my car? I use my Speedy Prep Towel about every 4-6 weeks as regular maintenence to keep the paint cleaned up, what do you think:confused:

Sent from my SPH-M930 using Tapatalk 2

Remember your towel is for above surface contaminents and Iron-X for iron particles both embedded in and on the surface. The conditions your car is exposed to should dictate how often a decontamination is needed. As Mike has said these are all tools for you to choose from.
 
Question, does the lemon iron x smell any better than the regular? Not from my experience, just reading about it, sounds like ironx has a "sulfuric" smell. Any chance the lemon smells any better?
 
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