What is jeweling?

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TLai

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I'm new to the detailing scene and I'm trying to learn more about detailing maintenance. To my understanding, you're supposed to wax/seal your car every 3-6 months, and at this time you should probably clay and use a pre-wax cleaner prior to waxing. Do you also need to jewel? My very limited understanding of jeweling is that you're making your car shinier with a pure polish. Is jeweling a part of the normal detailing maintenance plan? Like would I "jewel" after using a pre-wax cleaner and before applying a wax/sealant?

Thanks!
 
More seasoned detailers please correct if I am incorrect but I believe jeweling is after polishing before applying your LSP. The order would be compounding, polishing, and then jeweling. I believe the purpose is to further reduce the fine scratches put in by polishing same as polishing reduces the scratches put in by compounding.

David

TLai said:
I'm new to the detailing scene and I'm trying to learn more about detailing maintenance. To my understanding, you're supposed to wax/seal your car every 3-6 months, and at this time you should probably clay and use a pre-wax cleaner prior to waxing. Do you also need to jewel? My very limited understanding of jeweling is that you're making your car shinier with a pure polish. Is jeweling a part of the normal detailing maintenance plan? Like would I "jewel" after using a pre-wax cleaner and before applying a wax/sealant?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Jewelling is a term used for the effort of extracting the best and finest shine possible from the vehicle's paint. With emphasis on the word "finest", it is performed with a super fine polish and a very fine, no cut pad on a machine.

I wouldn't say it isn't necessarily a part of regular detailing maintenance however certainly and most likely should be. It is typically done after a cut, buff and polish effort to make sure everything is perfect and then some. I would use a jewelling process in lieu of a "paint cleaner" process as jewelling is the final process of paint finessing and after that it is ready to lock it in with a wax/sealant/coating.

If you are going to rewax every 3-6 months and clay then i would most likely machine cut at least a little because i inevitably get some slight "scarring" from clay. Once the paint is just about there, i jewel that last 5% and lay down my LSP.

If on the other hand you're paint is near perfect anyway (extremely rare for a daily driver after 6 months), then a gentle clay for contaminants, a paint cleaner to insure everything is off the paint and your wax may be your routine maintenance.

Bottom line and what i am trying to say is...jewelling to get that last bit of super shine and gloss is done by machine and most likely after machining out some imperfections below the surface. I wouldn't say it is a routine maintenance thing for me but i do it about once a year. I will say it is a fine art and takes a certain feel and a great set of eyes to jewel well! That along with a product, pad and machine that work very well ON YOUR PAINT.

Finally, if you enjoy the process of using a paint cleaner just before you lay down your LSP, i would probably "jewell" then clean. As long as your cleaner is a chemical cleaner only and doesn't contain abrasives. Personally i would consider that step uneccessary though.

(edit - while i was typing David above provided a good description).
 
As stated above, jeweling is where you add an additional step to paint correction. Wash, clay, compound, polish, jewel, seal.

It uses very find pads and in my experience is rarely warranted. It is a nice step to do on cars that have a bill that warrants it however rarely could I ever justify doing it on the average correction job.

After a full compound and polish if done correctly, the car looks great and is ready for sealant.

It looks nice and when budget justifies it, ok. Really though in my experience it is rarely done and if you did your job right, the extra time taken eats at your profit for quite honestly a result that will diminish on a daily driver.
 
It's a buzz-word for another (the finale)
paint polishing-step.

A substitute word for what I also call:
burnish, refine, furbish, etc., if you will.


Bob
 
I would agree that i rarely do it on customer cars...they are (most times) not paying for it and, yes, my final polish is very close to it anyway.

However, i DO do it on my car and from the tone of the OP i gathered he was inquiring for personal use and knowledge. Buzz word or not, there are some of us who have refined that one last step, if needed, warranted or desired. And, again, buzz word or not...it's a good descriptor.
 
Thanks for the response guys! My most successful post yet!

Yes I was mainly asking for my own personal use, but it's good to know how technique differs between people who do this for fun and for money.

So I've gathered that you CAN do this if you want for maintenance between large detailing sessions, but it's not super necessary. So I'm thinking that for maintenance sessions I'll clay (if needed) and then check for surface defects and either lightly polish with Meguiar's UP for correction or use a non abrasive paint cleaner (maybe dodo juice?) if correction isn't needed. Then just for funsies I can follow up either of those steps with some sort of finishing polish. I think I have some Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish that might work well.

Thanks again!
 
If what i just read online is still correct, the Meg's Deep Crystal polish is a chemical cleaner with no abrasives. While you can certainly try that and see if it improves the clarity and shine, i need a super fine DAT abrasive to do my jewelling. I love working Menzerna SF 4500 with a black or red pad on my rotary and vary my speeds quite a bit. At times i'll do a test spot after a 1 or 2 step correction and don't see any perceptible difference. Good...i stop there and don't bother doing the rest of the vehicle.

Again, do a test spot and see what you get. If you can't see any improvement, save your time, lay down your LSP and go driving to show it off! :xyxthumbs:
 
And consistent with it's use here before, the mere word "jewel" is bound to get some action 'round here!
 
Here's a couple of topical threads...


Jewelling - Definition


Jewelling with less than the weight of the rotary buffer


One thing for sure... if you're going to jewel the paint on the car the process starts with making sure everything is perfectly clean.

For example, before starting open all the doors, hood, trunk lid, gas cap cover, etc. and wipe off any compound or polish residue. You don't want have these residues enter back into the jeweling process as they will contaminate the process.

That takes time.


Also, you're going to need a lot of pads for the reasons I outline in the second link above...


I see people talk about jeweling but I don't see very much in-depth information provided by anyone.


:)
 
Puckman said:
If what i just read online is still correct, the Meg's Deep Crystal polish is a chemical cleaner with no abrasives.
Click to expand...
Per its MSDS:

Meguiar's A-21 Deep Crystal Polish does contain:
{Natural} Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.)/SiO2,
CAS# 61790-53-2

D.E.'s uses...(among others):
Inert, mild abrasive for polishes/cleaners...


Bob
 
Thanks Mike, perfect info and i will tell you, your second link became my bible for practicing and refining what i do on my car. With a rotary, a black or red pad and a ridiculously long work time of Menz SF4500 with less than machine weight at times. I find it easier to get less than machine weight on side panels. And again, i do this process on my black BMW and know what works best on that paint.

The trick for me was to eventually see a difference after training my eyesight. It's a learned nuanced improvement with practice but gives a reward unequalled.

And thanks for the clarification, Bob. It didn't read that way on Meg's site.
 
FUNX725 said:
Per its MSDS:

Meguiar's A-21 Deep Crystal Polish does contain:
{Natural} Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.)/SiO2,
CAS# 61790-53-2

D.E.'s uses...(among others):
Inert, mild abrasive for polishes/cleaners...


Bob
Click to expand...


The thing about MSD sheets is they don't really tell you the whole story.

I asked about this in the past when I worked for Meguiar's and the Diatomaceous Earth in this particular product is not in a form that can be used to abrade paint.

Same goes for Meguiar's #7.

As Gary Silvers told me once, #7 hasn't been scratching paint for 100 years.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
The thing about MSD sheets is they don't really tell you the whole story.

I asked about this in the past when I worked for Meguiar's and the Diatomaceous Earth in this particular product is not in a form that can be used to abrade paint.
Click to expand...
Perhaps D.E. is used as a:
"gloss control/surface-texture control" agent in A21... :dunno:


Bob
 
Thanks for the article Mike! And the clarification on DCP.

I might switch to a product with super fine abrasives since jeweling is supposed to be a super fine correction step (and apparently DCP doesn't cut). But like Puckman said, I'll just do a test spot and see if the results are to my liking.

Thanks everyone! I'm learning a lot!
 
When I get talked into doing a jeweling step I go right to my old bottle of Menzerna PO85rd, (it's now called SF4500), a black or gold pad on my Flex rotary.

The only pressure I use is the weight of the tool, or if on the side of a panel very light pressure. And a very slow speed. You are only "removing" the tiniest of marring that previous steps may have left on the surface.

And it even depends on the paint color. White you are wasting your time. Reds generally do show a difference. Black always seems to.

The last car I helped a friend out with was his new black Stingray. He was going to a local car show and wanted to really "put on the dog" The paint was already in wonderful condition. But he wanted to give it that extra special look. Since he did all his own work up to the jeweling step it was a very easy and fun job.

He won his class, plus best paint.
 
FUNX725 said:
Perhaps D.E. is used as a:
"gloss control/surface-texture control" agent in A21... :dunno:


Bob
Click to expand...


I know it's used for a number of things that don't include abrading paint.

One time one of the chemists showed me one version of diatomaceous clay, he took the lid off of this jar and a smoke arose out of the jar. He pointed to the smoke and said that's how fine the grain particle size is... it's so fine it's not even a powder but smoke.

I found that very interesting.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I know it's used for a number of things that don't include abrading paint.

One time one of the chemists showed me one version of diatomaceous clay, he took the lid off of this jar and a smoke arose out of the jar. He pointed to the smoke and said that's how fine the grain particle size is... it's so fine it's not even a powder but smoke.

I found that very interesting.


:)
Click to expand...
And to think:
It's sometimes even used as a "filler"
in food that we eat. :hungry:


Bob
 
And it filters my neighbor's pool water! He has a DE pool filter system but now i'm getting way off the OP's question.

Maybe its jewelling his water (there we go!). And that's my "go to" as well, oldmodman...good ole Menzerna PO85 or SF 4500 as the kids call it now! The only thing that varies for me is pad choice depending on how difficult or hard the paint is.
 
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