What is the best LSP to protect against water spots?

Blackthorn One

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Is it a wax, or a sealant? I like WDGPS for sealant, but I wonder if wax would be better for that, or it would be the same. I do plan on using wax over sealant, but is a wax better protection than sealant against spotting? Sprinklers can be rather troublesome.
 
To be honest, I've never seen any conclusive testing that proved that an all man-made, or synthetic paint sealant protected paint from water etchings better than what most people consider a traditional Carnauba wax, (paste or liquid).

Follow me on this logic...

If water drops are landing on your car's paint and there's something in the water corrosive enough to etch a spot or hole into a modern urethane clear coat finish... then chances are very good it's going to have no problem getting past the micron thin layer of protection you apply by pouring out of a bottle or scooping out of can.

Does that make sense?

Try not to park your car where sprinklers go off, I've witnessed some pretty bad water etching spots from city water sources.

Also, just to note, there's two types of water spots, Type I and Type II

Type I = Mineral deposit on the surface
Type II = Etching or hole in the actual clear layer of paint



Type I can be removed by washing, claying and in some cases a paint cleaner is needed to remove any type of surface mark. In some cases you could also use vinegar or a commercially available decontamination system.

Keep in mind there is acid rain spots, alkaline rain spots and whatever is in the city water or your well water.

Type I must be removed by using an abrasive product to remove paint surrounding the etching to level or flatten out the surface.
 
I have read from a few places that a nuba can protect just a little better and buy you a little more time as with synthetic sealants the molecular bond in the polymers is easily penetrated. Where as with a carnauba the film layer is continuous and the etching will have to eat through the carnauba layer then to the clear which can buy you a bit of time were as in sealants the etching will go right through the film at a faster rate than a nuba. This is just though talking to different people who are much smarter than I am in the molecular level of wax's and properties of the film.

In saying that, any kind of protection is better than anything as for the most part a LSP will help surface tension properties and let alot of water roll off the surface.
 
no sealant of any kind will fully protect, very durable ones will let water sit on a top of paint, and if you are lucky and get NO SUN, water will be there, and ready to be sheeted off (it it already didn't happen) once your vehicle is driven. Some of the very best sealants I'm hearing are Nanolex, and Gtechniq. They are very expensive, but durability should be 1-3 years, not that I need it to last that long (I clay and reseal every 6 months anyways), but it is very nice to know that protection will really be present. Durable sealants that Autogeek sells DG #601/#105, and Klasse twins.
 
I would put a vote in for Collinite 915 as the best sheeting/beading LSP I have seen yet. A close second is Pinnacle Signature Series II wax.
 
I would add that frequent use of any wax or any sealant is probably best for reducing water spots. Some "seem" to protect better at first, but can drop off quickly without reapplication.
 
I was reading an article from Optimum's Dr. G and he said while he isn't a fan of acrylic sealants as a whole, he did add that acrylics are better than nonacrylic sealants at protecting against acid rain induced water spots.

Two examples of acrylic sealants are Klasse Sealant Glaze and Jeff's Werkstat Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger.
 
I was reading an article from Optimum's Dr. G and he said while he isn't a fan of acrylic sealants as a whole, he did add that acrylics are better than nonacrylic sealants at protecting against acid rain induced water spots.

Two examples of acrylic sealants are Klasse Sealant Glaze and Jeff's Werkstat Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger.

So why did he not like them?
 
I totally agree that acrylic based products are fantastic in terms of countering the effects of water spotting even dust accumulation. I rarely use waxes anymore.
 
Bump* on this thread for new input,
Just bought a Black truck..hard to reach roof. Rain on top of pollen
left some etches.
Just applied 2 coats of WG 3.0 today.. see how that holds up.
Also bought a cordless blower vac to take off water asap after a rain, etc.

First black vehicle, now I understand how much effort goes in taking care of that color.
It shows all flaws....
 
Because Meguiar's chemists have always understood
that: whenever there are water beads...and then they
wind up drying on vehicles' surfaces...it can lead to
water-spotting, and other water related problems
(acid rain etching comes to mind):

They then took that knowledge, and put it to good
use, by designing and formulating Meguiar's
Gold Class Wax
to not bead water.



Bob
 
I have read from a few places that a nuba can protect just a little better and buy you a little more time as with synthetic sealants.

I would be interested in reading more about this.

Please provide a couple of links.

Thanks
 
I've had FK1000p on my car since last July and have had no problem with rain/snow induced water spots--yes I get them as the car soils, but they wash away with just a normal wash. Can't say how it would do with chemicals in city water/sprinklers but suspect they would not form etched water spots through the 1000.
 
Sonax Polymer Net Shield. I have a Black Ford Focus that had the hood repainted. None of the Collinites, Megs Ultimate waxes (Liquid and paste), nor Duragloss 105 would stop the water spotting on the soft aftermarket paint. Sonax PNS stopped the etching.

PNS was designed by Sonax to top their coating to prevent the water spotting that occurs more frequently with coatings. Looks great and can be freshened up with their Brilliant Shine Detailer.
 
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