what makes menzerna so tempermental?

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swirlnuts

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First of all let me say i know how finicky these polishes are, just curious as to why. Nano and sip are the two I have. On wednesday i had a crew cab gmc to do. After a full wash,clay, and wash I set out with the metabo and sip with a lambswool pad, no real problems here. But once i set out with a white ccs pad both nano and sip just seemed to be incredibly thick and wanted to dry out immediately. I have radiant heat in the shop. It was set on 68 with a good amount of humidity. Nothing I tried would make it any better. Yesterday i had an 07 pt cruiser and an 05 buick lesabre to do. Everything is the same as wednesday, same prep, temp, humidity, and the stuff worked like a dream. On and off with very little effort and very good results. Now today is an 04 impala, wash, clay, wash. 68 degrees, humid, and here comes trouble again. The poor metabo is working it's tail off to even spin the pad and again the residue is a pita to get off.

So im just wondering it is it about menz polishes that make them work flawless one day and be a nightmare the next. And better yet if anyone has any tips for those bad days. Thanks, James.
 
perhaps due to the paint nature of those different cars..?
what I did is to spray a little h20...in between passes.
 
I agree that a spray bottle of distilled water is a must when using SIP or Nano.
 
These polishes were designed to work with high speed rotary polisher’s, utilizing friction to break-down the diminishing abrasives, while in the controlled temperature / humidity environment (working temp range 60 – 800F (15-260C) of a vehicle manufacturer’s paint shop finishing line. Note that silicone has an adverse effect on the oils used for surface lubrication and can cause the polish to smear, also be aware that working outside you may have issues like excess humidity, heat, cold, etc that will affect there performance especially with the Nano polish (105FF) as it uses wax as a lubricant (colder temps may cause the wax to harden)

It should also be noted that these polishes use oil in water emulsion or wax for lubrication; if you are using a polymer after polishing it will be necessary to wipe-down the paint surface with Menzerna Top Inspection, a 1:1 solution of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water or DuPont’s Prepsol solvent.
(See also Surface Preparation)

They appear to work better when the foam pad is ‘primed’ a very slightly distilled water dampened foam as it stops the pad absorbing to much product and provides a longer ‘working’ time; do not use a quick detailer (QD) as most are formulated with either a wax or a polymer; however they are not easily adaptable to a spray formula.

Menzerna Polishes-
Methodology Part I - http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-forum/11443-menzerna-polishes-methodology-part-i.html

Methodology Part II - http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...44-menzerna-polishes-methodology-part-ii.html
 
good info. how much difference is there between tap water and distilled water? ive used tap water without much luck maybe its time to try distilled. Thanks everyone.
 
Tap water can vary (night and day)dependant upon its sorce, so a 'safe' bet is distilled water pH 7-8
 
I have very little issue with Menzerna polishes, only seem to dislike extreme heat. Optimum on the other hand needed some learning curve.
 
I haven't had much issue until it got really cold outside (im in michigan). I tried it with water today and it did make it easier and the results were just fine. I'm just struggling to find out what makes it a dream some days and not others so i can fix it if possible or just adjust to it.
 
I would think the only way for it to be perfect every time is in a cliamate controlled environment- like an assembly line- as TOGWT mentioned.
 
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