Here's something I posted this morning from this thread,
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/52577-correction-help-i-need-help-plz.html
Sounds like you need and want a twisted 100% wool cutting pad and a flexible backing plate to go with it.
I think we're getting some new styles of aggressive wool cutting pads but until then the Meguiar's wool pad in their So1o like is a good pad. Easy to buff with, great cutting power and easy to clean with a spur or a pad washer.
WWHC7 Solo Wool Heavy Cutting Pad 7 inch
This is a matching flexible backing plate that I would recommend for this wool pad or any wool pad.
Meguiars Solo Easy Buff W66 Rotary Backing Plate 6 Inch
We also have this one that fits the Solo Heavy Cutting Wool Pad.
Flex-Foam HD Rotary Backing Plate, 6 inches
As for M105, at this time it is the best cutting and finishing compound on the market. I tested it against M101 and Menzerna FG500 on black paint and it still finishes out better than both, the M101 does cut faster but it didn't finish out as nice as the M105 on black paint.
A couple of tips for using M105 with a rotary buffer and a wool pad.
First, clean your pad often. If you don't have a steel pad cleaning spur then get one. Don't use the caveman method of using a screwdriver especially if you're in this for the long run simply invest the money and get the right tool for the job.
Lake Country Wool Pad Spur
Second, anytime you find buffing with M105 difficult, shrink down the size of your work area. My shrinking down the size of your work area you will be keeping the product on the surface more liquid than buffing out a large section of paint.
Some people like to use a wetting agent to re-liquefy the compound and get more working life out of the abrasives. Meguiar's recommend either their body shop safe M34 because it's going to have the least amount of "extra" ingredients in it to interfere with the M105 formula, or plain water.
Third, always wipe a buffed panel clean before re-buffing. If you find you have to compound a panel a second time to remove all the defects, be sure to wipe off any previous residue before adding fresh product. When you add fresh product to spent product you're getting a completely new product that is now diluted with the spent compound and removed paint.
Fourth, hold the pad flat to the surface whenever you can hold the pad flat to the surface. You get more fibers cutting the paint working for you than if you only buff with an edge and you reduce the risk of burning through and edge and instilling deeper swirls. If you have to go up on edge then do so but try to buff flat whenever you can.
When you finish buffing one section of paint, start a new section and overlap a little into the previous section for a uniform, defect free appearance.
Fifth, try to do your heavy cutting in the morning when temperatures are still cool if you're working in a hot environment. This will give your compound a longer buffing cycle and make both buffing and wiping off residue easier.
Sixth, always do a Test Spot before buffing out the entire car. If you can't make one small section of paint look good to your expectations then you won't be able to make the entire car look good.
While Corvettes have very hard clear coats, I've used Porter Cable DA Polishers with foam cutting pads and Medium Cut Polishes to remove the majority of swirls and scratches. An aggressive compound like M105 however will remove more paint faster and from this what you'll "see" is faster defect removal. Just know where to draw the line for what to remove and what to live with as you don't want to remove too much paint or you could have clear coat failure issues into the future.
Above all, clean you pad often and always work on a clean surface.
A rotary buffer that is adjustable and lets you buff at a slower speed would be nice, if you're in this for the long run take a look at the DeWALT 849X as it dials down to 600 RPM and is a very well built tool for it's category.
