what pads to use on my DA for heavy oxidation?

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mynetdude

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I haven't gotten an answer on my last thread in the OT area about a couple questions I have but so far some have been very helpful :props:; this forum section is in an odd place as its in "brand specific forums" but ok its here and it works.

I know what products to get as far as liquids (polishes, waxes, etc) but I've been reading it seems that most use wool? But I understand that wool leaves behind some expected undesirable results and then need to be fixed with a foam pad?

So what do I get? medium cut foam to fix up the stuff the wool pads leave behind? What kind of wool pads do I get? All I want to do is bring back a shine, not a show shine.

I'm still not getting an answer regarding holograms whether or not I will see those with a meguiar's one step polish/shine; like I said in my last thread if it were my boat this probably wouldn't be an issue but its not my boat and I am not sure they care but I'd like to have the knowledge of whether this is going to happen or likely or not, etc.

So once I know what pads to get (I am familiar with LC and chemical guys) I'll be able to hunt down the sizes I need (it seems that its harder to get 6" wool pads for some reason, most are 7" or bigger).
 
It doesn't get talked about a whole lot around here but the surbuf pads (with a DA) are pretty aggressive when used with a compound. In most cases you will need to follow up with a polishing/finishing pad and polish to remove any hazing/micro-marring...
 
The Marine 31 Forum might yield better results for gel coat info

There is a link at the bottom of this page
 
VISITOR said:
It doesn't get talked about a whole lot around here but the surbuf pads (with a DA) are pretty aggressive when used with a compound. In most cases you will need to follow up with a polishing/finishing pad and polish to remove any hazing/micro-marring...
Click to expand...


never heard of a surbuf pad; so a LC finishing pad would work? And what kind of polish since I'm planning on using a meguiars one step polish? (I guess I should look for some kind of finishing polish for the gelcoat then)
 
The surbuf on a DA does work very well. Also, TufBuf wool pads work VERY well and can typically finish down very nice. If you're trying to stay with Meg's, get some Ultimate Compound and some Ultimate Polish which are available otc. Or if you want something with a little more muscle step up to M105 and M205. You can tackle a lot with those products.
 
mynetdude said:
never heard of a surbuf pad; so a LC finishing pad would work? And what kind of polish since I'm planning on using a meguiars one step polish? (I guess I should look for some kind of finishing polish for the gelcoat then)
Click to expand...

A finishing pad will not effectively cut thru oxidation on gel coat, even with an aggressive compound

Most pros who work on gel coat a lot use a rotary with wool pads

Since you are using a DA there are still some good options paired with compound. Here are a few:

- Surbuf
- Lake Country Purple Foamed Wool (get the thin)
- Lake Country Yellow CCS
- Tufbuf Black Wool
 
allenk4 said:
A finishing pad will not effectively cut thru oxidation on gel coat, even with an aggressive compound

Most pros who work on gel coat a lot use a rotary with wool pads

Since you are using a DA there are still some good options paired with compound. Here are a few:

- Surbuf
- Lake Country Purple Foamed Wool (get the thin)
- Lake Country Yellow CCS
- Tufbuf Black Wool
Click to expand...

So at least I got the general idea that wool is to be used; these LC purple wool pads are not as common yet easily found unlike the foam pads.

Is there a reason to use wool instead of foam heavy cut pads?
 
fly07sti said:
The surbuf on a DA does work very well. Also, TufBuf wool pads work VERY well and can typically finish down very nice. If you're trying to stay with Meg's, get some Ultimate Compound and some Ultimate Polish which are available otc. Or if you want something with a little more muscle step up to M105 and M205. You can tackle a lot with those products.
Click to expand...

Ok so I'm a little confused; I realize that 105 and 205 are superb stuff, but it doesn't say its for marine use and really I haven't thought about using this stuff on my vehicles. I only have waxes right now I don't even have any compounds for doing my autos yet.

I just learned that I might be better off just using M91 which is the most abrasive and leaves no mess behind? (so how does this compare with M105/205?)

Trying to keep it simple as possible; I have two autos I also maintain as well and I try to keep that as simple and consistent with my steps; too many changes/variations in anything confuses me.
 
mynetdude said:
Ok so I'm a little confused; I realize that 105 and 205 are superb stuff, but it doesn't say its for marine use and really I haven't thought about using this stuff on my vehicles. I only have waxes right now I don't even have any compounds for doing my autos yet.

I just learned that I might be better off just using M91 which is the most abrasive and leaves no mess behind? (so how does this compare with M105/205?)

Trying to keep it simple as possible; I have two autos I also maintain as well and I try to keep that as simple and consistent with my steps; too many changes/variations in anything confuses me.
Click to expand...

The folks on this Forum, including myself are more familiar with the Automotive compounds and polishes; that's why you keep getting pushed in that way

From what I have read M91 is an aggressive compound and can be used with a DA or Rotary, so it seems a good fit for your needs


Make sure you post some "Before & Afters"
 
allenk4 said:
The folks on this Forum, including myself are more familiar with the Automotive compounds and polishes; that's why you keep getting pushed in that way

From what I have read M91 is an aggressive compound and can be used with a DA or Rotary, so it seems a good fit for your needs


Make sure you post some "Before & Afters"
Click to expand...

Will have to; I'll head over to Marine 31 to get more refined answers, not that you guys don't have good answers they're awesome :)

I should consider getting one of the other products M105/205 for my automotive needs since that's what I do more of; but this is my first time doing a boat (well my first time doing autos too but I've been learning that part for 6 months now).

I'm going to go to my aunt's to do a full inspection of the boat to determine what it needs; because I believe a base layer is needed before I can do anything and that requires someone else with the experience/knowledge (its a specialized barrier paint used to protect the fiberglass).
 
I've been out of boating for 15 years but I purchased a used, 21 ft Chaparall that had decent interior but the gel had oxidized pretty badly back in the late 80s.

For the oxidization removal I used one of the 3M compounds (don't remember which one) and followed with a Meguiar's polish and wax. It was a 3-step process but only had to do the 3-step one time.

If I were doing this again, I'd probably go with the 3M compound and wax with a yellow Lake Country pad with something like this: 3M Marine Rubbing Compound, 3M gelcoat compound, 3M marine compound, polish gelcoat, followed by a white pad with one of the polishes, and then follow with a wax. I'd go with the 3M line but Megs probably has a similar product line. I'd pick one and go with it rather than mixing up.
 
I'm not a professional but you might be better off to get a cheap rotary polisher and use 7" to 8" twisted wool pads with a heavy oxidation compound (Marine 31 products will work). A DA polisher will work but it will take longer to finish the project. Remember to spur the wool pads often.

For second step use a wool blend or foamed wool pad with a light to medium compound followed by a finish polish with a lambs wool pad or good yellow foam pad. I prefer a polymer sealant rather than wax as the polymer sealants tend to last longer.

FYI I use a plastic drop sheet taped over the windshield and interior to keep the dust out of the interior. Wool pads (especially new ones) will shed - I run my new wool pads thru a pad cleaner and spur the pads well before I use them the first time which helps. Mike posted a very detailed boat project (older Baja boat) that came out very nice with some good tips. Sorry can't find the link but you should be able to search around and find it.

You should be able to find all the products needed in AG store - except the beer :xyxthumbs:
 
Chase_910 said:
I'm not a professional but you might be better off to get a cheap rotary polisher and use 7" to 8" twisted wool pads with a heavy oxidation compound (Marine 31 products will work). A DA polisher will work but it will take longer to finish the project. Remember to spur the wool pads often.

For second step use a wool blend or foamed wool pad with a light to medium compound followed by a finish polish with a lambs wool pad or good yellow foam pad. I prefer a polymer sealant rather than wax as the polymer sealants tend to last longer.

FYI I use a plastic drop sheet taped over the windshield and interior to keep the dust out of the interior. Wool pads (especially new ones) will shed - I run my new wool pads thru a pad cleaner and spur the pads well before I use them the first time which helps. Mike posted a very detailed boat project (older Baja boat) that came out very nice with some good tips. Sorry can't find the link but you should be able to search around and find it.

You should be able to find all the products needed in AG store - except the beer :xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

I noticed the DA machine does take a little more effort and for good reason; I'm not comfortable with rotaries since its much easier to burn the paint or material you're working I don't mind if it takes longer but I kinda wished the DA would go a little faster than what I've got it doesn't seem to be fast like a rotary even on max (and I suppose that's the whole point of a DA).

Thanks for your tips too; and I'll have a look around; you're right I'd want to use a polymer but I'd still put a wax on (some say why bother? Well, personally I'd like to have wax on when the boat is in the heat in between uses; and then a final waxing before winter but of course once its in the water the water is going to beat up the wax coating which is fine).
 
You can take off pretty heavy oxidation with a da and appropriate pads if you have heavy compound intended for gel coat

On the few occasions of polishing heavily oxidized boats this summer, m105 did not do a damn thing. It just got soaked in as if I tried to wax it. Save the headache and look up marine/rv/gel coat specific compounds. M105 will only work if the gel coat still has some life to it. If it's all dried up and chalky looking, you'd have to sand off the oxidized layer to get m105 and most automotive specific compounds to work
 
You will never get the proper cut with a da on gel coat that is heavy oxidaized. Rotary with appropriate pad and compound is the only steps. It it is very bad you will need to sand first and then cmpound with rotary. It will come back if not donr properly.
 
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