What Polisher should I get? curvy panels

clidefr0g

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I realize this has probably been asked many times before however..

I have a Jaguar F-Type R, it has a lot of curves and smaller areas. I have a PC7424xp w/ 5" backing plate, ive not had a lot of success with this tool, its pretty lackluster and i would like to upgrade.

I've heard of people putting a 3" plate on it and was wondering peoples opinions on the effectiveness of that and weather a 3" pad is even small enough to do my cars tight areas.

I'm contemplating getting the Griots G9 as a general replacement for the pc but highly value any input you may have.

Thank you.
 
If it were me, and I had an original PC and recently got a G9, I would get a 3 inch backing plate and try some 3 & 4” pads with it. That would be the most expeditious and least expensive option. If that doesn’t work your only other option would be to give up and give me the Jag ;)
 
The most efficient way for a 2 stage correction is imo one of 2 ways....

Cut with rotary and finish with free spinning da
Or
Forced rotation like the FLEX Supa BEAST

Long story short, get the FLEX Supa BEAST
 
My PC 7424 has been relegated to applying glazes and waxes. I do most of the heavy correction with the flex and finish out with a 15mm throw DA. I am fortunate to have rupes nano , rupes mini, GG G8 , and rotary mini tools at my disposal for all small areas. If I was to have only one... I would use the flex. Gear driven DA with no stalling on curves and I can also tilt the machine to get a smaller footprint for those small areas. An AIO one step ... I would be using my flex.

A GG G9 pair with GG G8 is a great combo since you could complete just about any detailing tasks. put on a 3" stiff brush on the G8 and you can scrub tires. A softer upholstery brush attachment and you can go nuts on the interior. LOL

I love my flex super beast and the 3401 but .... you can have both the G9 and G8 for the price of the flex.
 
A GG G9 pair with GG G8 is a great combo since you could complete just about any detailing tasks. put on a 3" stiff brush on the G8 and you can scrub tires.



Scrubbing tires with a corded machine is not safe imo. Using a cordless drill for tires is a safer way to clean your tires. Plus a rotary will not stall like a DA will.
 
im concerned that a g8 or similar 3" polisher would still be too large for a bunch of spots on my car, I was really hoping someone with experience doing an F type could weight in as well.

Theres a rupes nano long neck for sale second hand near me for about 50% off retail atm but id be hard pressed to want to do the whole car with a 2" polisher?
 
im concerned that a g8 or similar 3" polisher would still be too large for a bunch of spots on my car, I was really hoping someone with experience doing an F type could weight in as well.

Theres a rupes nano long neck for sale second hand near me for about 50% off retail atm but id be hard pressed to want to do the whole car with a 2" polisher?

You would be absolutley insane to do the whole car with Rupes Nano lol.

Go get the Nano. They are great.
 
I just got a short neck Nano when they were on sale on Autogeek. It is a great tool. I wouldn’t want to do a whole car, even a swoopy sports car, with it however. Try the PC with a 3” plate and see what you want. If you have a lot of places you can’t get into, get the Nano first. If you think you can get enough with the 3” plate, then you can (a) stay with it (b) upgrade the larger machine or (c) get a Rupes Mini for your 3” duties.

Don’t have a Flex PiXie, but doesn’t it have the choice of 3” and 1” pads? That might be an option.
 
im concerned that a g8 or similar 3" polisher would still be too large for a bunch of spots on my car, I was really hoping someone with experience doing an F type could weight in as well.

Theres a rupes nano long neck for sale second hand near me for about 50% off retail atm but id be hard pressed to want to do the whole car with a 2" polisher?

the G8 comes with a 2" backing plate as well.
 
Scrubbing tires with a corded machine is not safe imo. Using a cordless drill for tires is a safer way to clean your tires. Plus a rotary will not stall like a DA will.



I hear what you are saying.

I only use heavy gauged marine grade extension cord. The amount of cleaning liquid I used is just a tad more than what I would use when wet sanding with a DA. Rubber soles , rubber mat, and rubber gloves are used.


I rinse with power washer only when all the scrubbing has been completed.
 
If your worried about stalling on curves go forced rotation. A flex product.

You could also look to take a class and learn how to get a free spinning DA to “dance” on the paint.


I fear if you have stalling issues with your PC, you may also have it with the Griots or that matter most DA’s.

A Mini 3” and Nano would still be great for tight spots.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Like others have said - go to a Flex forced rotation.
I have a Rupes 15 MKII and a Rupe Mini, and they always worked fine...until I did a few Porsche cars & SUVs. The curves stalled the 15, so I ended up doing 1/2 the car with the Mini. A Flex would have made the job much easier.
 
I attacked the problem in a couple different ways: Tools and pads.

Pads: Before I went with a two-tool set up I kept a combination of different pads and swapped them out as needed on my primary, "big" polisher. To this day, I still do this depending on the surface I'm working on. For larger flat areas like a hood or trunk deck, I'll use thinner pads. For curvy areas like fenders, some doors, running boards, etc, I'll use a thicker pad which will conform better to the irregular surface and make it easier to keep the pad flat on the surface.

Tools: I ended up going with a two-tool set up. Right now I've got a G15 and a G8 and it covers all the bases for me nicely when used in conjunction with a combination of pads.
 
id be hard pressed to want to do the whole car with a 2" polisher?


The three tools I predominantly use when I buff out most cars are,

FLEX Supa BEAST
RUPES Nano Long Neck in Rotary Mode - 1" pad
FLEX PiXiE with the 12mm orbital connector and a 2" backing plate with a 3" foam pad


Here's an example of where I use the Nano Long Neck

Paint Correction - George Harrison's 1966 Ferrari 275 GTS - Pinnacle Jeweling Wax & Souveran Paste Wax


CBEAST4Ferrari_24.JPG


CBEAST4Ferrari_25.JPG


CBEAST4Ferrari_26.JPG







Here's everything I used....


CBEAST4Ferrari_02.JPG





Just an old 2-door European job....

CBEAST4Ferrari_80.JPG






:)
 
Beautiful car!

Thank you for your input Mike. I see you're using the cordless versions in your picture, do you prefer them over the corded machines? Could you link me to the supa beast that you recommend?
 
Beautiful car!

Thank you for your input Mike. I see you're using the cordless versions in your picture, do you prefer them over the corded machines? Could you link me to the supa beast that you recommend?

See post #4 where I provided the link for the Supa BEAST
 
Beautiful car!

Thank you for your input Mike. I see you're using the cordless versions in your picture,

do you prefer them over the corded machines?

Here's an article I wrote about the FLEX BEAST Family.

FLEX Power Tools Nicknames - All cool tools should have a nickname - not a part number -Mike Phillips


Here's what I wrote in post #3 - on 05-21-2020, 09:42 AM and I still think the same way.


Here's my take on the above 3 gear-driven tools


The BEAST
If I REALLY want to bust out a job and plow through it as fast as humanly possible I use the BEAST.


The Supa BEAST
If not trying to hit Warp Speed - I grab the Supa Beast, much more enjoyable to use. Amazing tool. Smoother, quieter, lighter and cooler than the original.


The CBEAST
If I have an easy job, that means the car has only light swirls, scratches, etc. and I'm not in a hurry then I grab the CBEAS



Could you link me to the supa beast that you recommend?


Here's what I use about 99.9% of the time.

The SUPA BEAST


:)
 
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