What will happen using 303 protectant over an Amor-All dash?

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720pete

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A few months ago a professional detailer put Armor All all over my interior. Looks great but we know what the long term effects are - not good. What would happen if I tried putting 303 aerospace protectant over it? Would there be a reaction?
 
I've used Armor All Air Fresh Protectant on my car's interior and it is not bad at all - smells good too. I have used 303 and other protectants as well and mix and match them. I have never had a "reaction" but I've always waited until the protectant was nearly worn out and needed replacement. If I were you I would wait a few weeks just to place it safe.
 
I work for 303, I would suggest you use an APC and clean off the Armor All if your wanting to apply 303 Aerospace Protectant. If your not using a 303 cleaner just make sure you use a cleaner that does not leave a residue.
I've personally never tried your specific scenario, but I'm sure some professional on here will chime in.
 
Professionals use Armor All on interiors? Yuck.

I second using an all purpose cleaner to remove it beforehand.
 
Both products are now VOC-compliant, water-based emulsions.
Their surfactants are, no doubt, very similar in nature.

Therefore:
I expect a 303 application to expunge the majority of the AA-product (that, back in the day,
set the gold-standard for these types of "dressings")...without any violent chemical reactions.

-Might want to make sure your applicators and removal-towels
are made of non-explosive materials, though!! :eek:


Bob
 
ewww the thought of armor all is just blehhhhhh

Take that crap off with APC. Remember, shiny interior most of the time equals greasy. Greasy then leads to dirty in a matter of no time. That right there is why i dont use any shiny UV protectors in my car. Hell most of the time i dont use any. You dont really need it in my opinion. The glass on most cars these days have enough UV inhibitors that there is no need for any dressing on the interiors of cars.
 
I like the Megs gloss dash stuff. it has a nice sheen but its not greasy. it also tones down pretty quick. also have some Matte stuff. I guess Im old school, I like it slick an glossy, but I can do with out the grease
 
I always clean dash, console, and any other trim I am going to protect with 303 with an APC first. Even if nothing has ever been on there. Best to have a good clean surface to start with IMO.
 
mark98xlt said:
I wasn't talking about the finish it leaves, rather the myth of using it and it causing dashes to crack etc..
Click to expand...

I don't know about cracking, but I noticed when using it on a black interior many years ago the effects would quickly wear off and my dash would always look oxidized and faded to the point the black plastic bits would actually start turning gray. As soon as I stopped using the stuff and went to a quality product, I no longer had those issues.
 
would start to turn white on older cars.Thats when clear gard came out and was clear not white milk also lasted alot longer even when wet.
 
I would do light IPA to get it back to zero. I've noticed that on a new surface it might take two coats of 303 to get it right but after that it is G2G. The good news is that it layers exceptionally well for future applications without buildup only needing one coat. Love the stuff!

As a tip for the daily driver....I only reapply every two months or so. In between I hit it with a Swiffer Duster and it's set. The shine lasts that long for me.
 
Nickstradamus said:
I would do light IPA to get it back to zero. I've noticed that on a new surface it might take two coats of 303 to get it right but after that it is G2G. The good news is that it layers exceptionally well for future applications without buildup only needing one coat. Love the stuff!

As a tip for the daily driver....I only reapply every two months or so. In between I hit it with a Swiffer Duster and it's set. The shine lasts that long for me.
Click to expand...

I actually hit it once or twice with a dry MF after I apply it and let it cure a bit. That gets it down to near matte which I prefer. I also find that spreads out the product a bit more too, so it evens out any high/low spots.
 
wdmaccord said:
I actually hit it once or twice with a dry MF after I apply it and let it cure a bit. That gets it down to near matte which I prefer. I also find that spreads out the product a bit more too, so it evens out any high/low spots.
Click to expand...

I'll give that a go for first coat evenness. I like more shine so I'd probably hit it again full strength. To me 303 has a nice shine , but not too much to where it looks cheap or interferes with driver visibility.
 
FUNX725 said:
Both products are now VOC-compliant, water-based emulsions.
Their surfactants are, no doubt, very similar in nature.

Therefore:
I expect a 303 application to expunge the majority of the AA-product (that, back in the day,
set the gold-standard for these types of "dressings")...without any violent chemical reactions.

-Might want to make sure your applicators and removal-towels
are made of non-explosive materials, though!! :eek:


Bob
Click to expand...


:iagree::iagree: It's amazing how rumors start and continue to carry on for years.
 
mark98xlt said:
I wasn't talking about the finish it leaves, rather the myth of using it and it causing dashes to crack etc..
Click to expand...

It wasn't a myth when Chrysler issued a bulletin in the 70's stating not to use Armor All on vinyl and plastic as it will dry out those items which causes cracking. That was the last day I ever used it. Did they change the formula since then ?, probably but there are a lot of better products now.

Dave
 
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