What would be the most effective way to remove Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze

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JakeyDill

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I intend on getting this Glaze/polish for xmas and have heard that it is rather tricky to remove

what would be the best way to apply by hand and how to effectively remove this fantastic product. :buffing:
 
Detail spray or waterless wash removes it easily. Just spray and let sit for a minute or so, and it wipes off. Honestly, water in a spray bottle is just about as effective at removing excess, however, there is no lubricity from water.
You can use a cotton or microfiber polishing cloth to apply, or a soft towel, folded into small sections. Work small areas at a time until slick feeling, then move on to next area. I like 4x4 inches to 4x8 inches. Any larger and it dries too fast and is difficult to work.

As far as I know, it's always applied by hand. Mike Phillips wrote an article about using it on single stage paint.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html
 
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JakeyDill said:
I intend on getting this Glaze/polish for xmas and have heard that it is rather tricky to remove

what would be the best way to apply by hand and how to effectively remove this fantastic product. :buffing:
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Just do small sections and don't let it dry. What is your intention with this product?

Blackthorn One said:
My experience is that removing of dried on #7 after it is left to soak overnight is far more difficult to remove than wax. It is so difficult to remove that I would not attempt to remove it without at least water, lest I mar my single stage black paint in the process, by rubbing so hard.
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It is a pain to remove if dried. Not sure if Mike mentioned this: If you let it on overnight, the best way to remove it is to reapply more #7 then wipe it off. Basically rewetting the dried stuff with fresh product and it makes that process much much easier.
 
Dr Oldz said:
Just do small sections and don't let it dry. What is your intention with this product?



It is a pain to remove if dried. Not sure if Mike mentioned this: If you let it on overnight, the best way to remove it is to reapply more #7 then wipe it off. Basically rewetting the dried stuff with fresh product and it makes that process much much easier.
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Indeed using more #7 removes dried on #7 well, but nowhere near as well as using water or detail spray. There is no comparison as far as the ease. Unless there is a reason not to use a detail spray or water, I will use water or a detail spray after the water in order to save money on #7, unless I am going to apply more #7. I admit I have left #7 on for days and have been concerned about dust settling into the#7 and possibly marring the finish if I didn't remove it ever so gently. This is how I discovered the effectiveness of waterless wash, then detail spray, then water.
 
Blackthorn One said:
Indeed using more #7 removes dried on #7 well, but nowhere near as well as using water or detail spray. There is no comparison as far as the ease. Unless there is a reason not to use a detail spray or water, I will use water or a detail spray after the water in order to save money on #7, unless I am going to apply more #7. I admit I have left #7 on for days and have been concerned about dust settling into the#7 and possibly marring the finish if I didn't remove it ever so gently. This is how I discovered the effectiveness of waterless wash, then detail spray, then water.
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Very true but if you are really trying to restore SS paint and saturate with 7's oil's, I find using 7 to remove 7 to be the best way. Seems WW's or QD's remove some of the oils IME.

All comes down to personal preference! :props:
 
Dr Oldz said:
Very true but if you are really trying to restore SS paint and saturate with 7's oil's, I find using 7 to remove 7 to be the best way. Seems WW's or QD's remove some of the oils IME.

All comes down to personal preference! :props:
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I concur. WW and QDs do remove the oils, however, water doesn't really remove them.It just removed the dried on paste portion. There is still an oily film left on after using water. As long as you are still in the process of applying coats of #7, simply adding more #7 is the best way, particularly if you cover it with saran wrap, to keep out dust. I believe using a plastic cover might also increase the effectiveness of the absorption as well.
 
Work one pannel at a time and use two quality microfiber towels when removing! I like to use one hand to take the bulk of the glaze off and the other towel to finish the pannel to a shine! Your towels will fill up quick so don't be afraid to switch out towels half way around the car!
 
My intended use of this product is too fill in any remaining cracks and alleys in the clear coat of my paint to further smooth'n the paintwork to create an even deeper wet look and to provide a smooth surface for easier waxing and I assume a more durable coating of wax due to the ultra smooth surface.
 
JakeyDill said:
My intended use of this product is too fill in any remaining cracks and alleys in the clear coat of my paint to further smooth'n the paintwork to create an even deeper wet look and to provide a smooth surface for easier waxing and I assume a more durable coating of wax due to the ultra smooth surface.
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It will indeed hide some swirls and create a deep wet look on your clear coat. It will not make a coating of wax more durable... It will actually do the exact opposite.

7 was formulated many many years ago. It's was made for single stage paints even b4 clear coats were invented. To make a ling story short.... It's nourishing oils don't penetrate clear coats but they sit on top of them. While giving the illusion of great looking paint, the oils actually hinder the bonding capabilities of waxes and sealants on clear coats. Single stage paints are a different animal.
 
Right-oh, a good shine is worth the sacrifice of wax longevity. I enjoy waxing my car so it will make me embrace the passion.

Thanks everyone for the replys

JakeyDill
 
Dr Oldz said:
While giving the illusion of great looking paint, the oils actually hinder the bonding capabilities of waxes and sealants on clear coats. Single stage paints are a different animal.
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Yeah I never ran across an issue with using #7 on CC paint and it having an effect in terms of durability..even on Collinite 845 on both my personal vehicles or customers alike. Also "giving the illusion of great looking paint", while #7 will temporarily fill in some light defects, if you properly corrected the paint to begin with then there wont be an illusion ;)
 
I've been using #7 for almost 40 years and I'd swear at it every time I used it because of its difficulty to apply and remove. Reading Mike's article referenced above was my "eureka" experience. I fold a MF cloth into a 4"X8" pad, apply a generous stripe of M07, then pinch the sides of the cloth with my thumb and little finger, keeping my palm flat on the surface. Rub it in with some serious "passion" as Mike says, and keep the coating super, super thin. As mentioned, its effectiveness is related to the age of the paint. On newer paints in good shape, something like Meg's Ultimate Polish may be a better choice. On older SS paints or even older BC/CC finishes, it has no equal IMO.

Bill
 
+1 ^ Agree

Although I find myself using a black finishing pad by machine, apply a uniform coating and remove with plenty of MF towels. Find a method that best works for you! :)
 
I like to dampen away pad slightly then do a panel a time circle then even. Let haze then take off the same way until you have a perfect shine!!
 
Thank you for the polite responses every one, Will be picking up the almighty #7 today. Can't wait.
 
JakeyDill said:
I intend on getting this Glaze/polish for xmas and have heard that it is rather tricky to remove

what would be the best way to apply by hand and how to effectively remove this fantastic product.
Click to expand...

Normally, for using this product to restored, dead, oxidized single stage paint you "could" use a very good quality terry cloth towel and the stoutness of terry cloth nap makes removing the very oily #7 easier. You would still use a gentle touch and take small, overlapping circular bites of product off the paint.



JakeyDill said:
My intended use of this product is too fill in any remaining cracks and alleys in the clear coat of my paint to further smooth'n the paintwork to create an even deeper wet look and to provide a smooth surface for easier waxing
Click to expand...


Anytime you're working on a clear coat it's easier for the average person to wipe any product off this scratch-sensitive type of paint using a premium quality microfiber towel instead of the stouter fiber of cotton terry cloth.

Just apply to a single panel at one time. Work the product over the surface and then remove from this same panel taking small, overlapping circular bites out of the layer of #7 glaze.

Turn to a clean side often and switch to a fresh, clean towel often as you move from panel to panel.


A panel = a fender
A panel = the hood
A panel = the trunk lid
A panel = a door

Non-panels would be the portions of body that the above all bolt and hinge to...


Also, shake well before using and while using...


:)
 
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