What's my absolute final step?

[Toxix]

So I've got my 2014 Mustang GT all prepared and maybe finished....that's to be determined.

I'm really looking for some advice on what I should top this beast off with...or even if needs to be topped off with anything at all.

I've put away the Zaino product for this year and have decided to go with Duragloss after speaking to a few of the well-known Duragloss guys as well as a lengthy conversation with Jerry at Duragloss.

As we all know 90% of the shine and depth is all in the prep.
Heres the prep:

- Iron X
- Clay
- Meguiar's D151 Polish
- IPA Bath x2
- Griot's Garage Paint Prep + Dawn Wash
- Duragloss DG601 + DG501 - 1:4 Ratio
- Duragloss DG601 + DG105 - 1:4 Ratio - 3 LAYERS/COATS
- Duragloss DG601 + DG111 - 1:4 Ratio - 2 LAYERS/COATS
- Duragloss Aquawax as a detail spray and drying aid


Is there anything I top top DG111 for some serious pop?

I have Collinite's products, but I'm looking for some with a lot more depth and pop, durabiltiy doesn't concern me because I absolutely LOVE layering product on (although there are hardly any benefits)

Things I've considered for my Mustang:
Pinnacle Souveran
Pinnacle Black Label Synergy
Blackfire BlackICE Wax
Zymol Glasur
Wolfgang Fuzion

Pics of my ride:

All the pictures above are with the vehicle completely stripped of all product (Dawn + a healthy amount of Griot's Garage Paint Prep) to remove any remaining waxes, sealants or glazes.

It really comes to show HOW IMPORTANT PREP really is and what CLEAN paint can do for a vehicle.

This is one of the few pictures with it after being coated.
Will be taking more later:

For those of you interested, she was on the dyno yesterday:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqOq3bQalkY

 

[allenk4]

You definitely prepped the heck out of that paint, so I am pretty sure it is "clean", but is it perfect? If the paint is perfect with no hazing or orange peel, it will look great with almost anything on it.

Remember, every layer also has the potential to DECREASE the "pop".

Many products contain ingredients that actually remove whatever it is going on top of. Carbauba waxes contain solvents to make them more user friendly and therefore difficult to layer.

The main purpose of a 2nd coat of any LSP is to make sure you have not missed any spots.


There are millions of opinions in the Wax Wars, this one is mine.

 

[aztec1987]

Use some CG Concours 50/50 of Black wax by CG they have really great results IMO.

Products used:
CG Citruss wash + Gloss
CG V36 Compund
CG V38 Polisher
CG Blacklight
CG Wet mirror finish
CG Jet Seal 109
CG Black
CG Hybrid V7

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In this picture I didn't polish the car but did use the concours 50/50 wax and as well P-40 spray detailer

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[allenk4]

Glad you like your results with this combo.


Using all these products, were you able to perceive a difference between the bare polished paint and when you applied Blacklight

What about the difference between the Blacklight as LSP and the Wet Mirror Finish?

What improvement did you see by adding the Jet Seal 109, or was that for increased durability?

What differences where there when you added CG Black Wax on top of the Jet Seal 109

Did the Hybrid V7 impart additional gloss when applied over the CG Blacklight, CG Wet Mirror Finish, CG Jet Seal 109 and CG Black?


I hope you are applying all of these by machine!

 

[aztec1987]

Glad you like your results with this combo.


Using all these products, were you able to perceive a difference between the bare polished paint and when you applied Blacklight

What about the difference between the Blacklight as LSP and the Wet Mirror Finish?

What improvement did you see by adding the Jet Seal 109, or was that for increased durability?

What differences where there when you added CG Black Wax on top of the Jet Seal 109

Did the Hybrid V7 impart additional gloss when applied over the CG Blacklight, CG Wet Mirror Finish, CG Jet Seal 109 and CG Black?


I hope you are applying all of these by machine!

When I use the cutting compound I notice that the paint began to be more clear such as no swirl marks (Used a orange Hex logic pad) then applied the polish (white hex logic pad) which gave that color pop that I wanted to get. I applied Blacklight in order to protect the first steps that I did in which did gave a gloss effect. The wet mirror finish was applied after blacklight since if I did it the other way around Blacklight tend to remove the results of Wet Mirror finish. I applied Jet seal 109 in order to increase the protection and finally two coats of wax. I did see a difference in which the paint was actually protected for about a month in a half at the time we were in Winter when we had foggy mornings. Most cars would be cover with dust so did my brothers Mustang but it was so easy to knock off the dust when I washed it. I used a PC 7424

 

[allenk4]

When I use the cutting compound I notice that the paint began to be more clear such as no swirl marks (Used a orange Hex logic pad) then applied the polish (white hex logic pad) which gave that color pop that I wanted to get. I applied Blacklight in order to protect the first steps that I did in which did gave a gloss effect. The wet mirror finish was applied after blacklight since if I did it the other way around Blacklight tend to remove the results of Wet Mirror finish. I applied Jet seal 109 in order to increase the protection and finally two coats of wax. I did see a difference in which the paint was actually protected for about a month in a half at the time we were in Winter when we had foggy mornings. Most cars would be cover with dust so did my brothers Mustang but it was so easy to knock off the dust when I washed it. I used a PC 7424

You know I was pulling your leg...right?

That's just a ton of product on one car!

Whatever you like...is what you like

 

[aztec1987]

You know I was pulling your leg...right?

That's just a ton of product on one car!

Whatever you like...is what you like

Sorry I didn't catch it hahaha I just woke up from a nap. I like to protect the cars as much as I can even thou there are time some of my family members tend to scratch the front of the car when they scrape it with a bush while parking and others well they tend to put hard material on the paint where it tends to slide off and leave a nice scratch.

 

[silverfox]

DG 105 alone would give you about a year. You went with the DG trifecta and I think topping with AWax once a month is enough. For weekly post washes hit it with your favorite detail spray already have more than enough protection as it is. At some point you can over do the layered approach.

 

[stilltipping3]

So I've got my 2014 Mustang GT all prepared and maybe finished....that's to be determined.

I'm really looking for some advice on what I should top this beast off with...or even if needs to be topped off with anything at all.

I've put away the Zaino product for this year and have decided to go with Duragloss after speaking to a few of the well-known Duragloss guys as well as a lengthy conversation with Jerry at Duragloss.

As we all know 90% of the shine and depth is all in the prep.
Heres the prep:

- Iron X
- Clay
- Meguiar's D151 Polish
- IPA Bath x2
- Griot's Garage Paint Prep + Dawn Wash
- Duragloss DG601 + DG501 - 1:4 Ratio
- Duragloss DG601 + DG105 - 1:4 Ratio - 3 LAYERS/COATS
- Duragloss DG601 + DG111 - 1:4 Ratio - 2 LAYERS/COATS
- Duragloss Aquawax as a detail spray and drying aid


Is there anything I top top DG111 for some serious pop?

I have Collinite's products, but I'm looking for some with a lot more depth and pop, durabiltiy doesn't concern me because I absolutely LOVE layering product on (although there are hardly any benefits)

Things I've considered for my Mustang:
Pinnacle Souveran
Pinnacle Black Label Synergy
Blackfire BlackICE Wax
Zymol Glasur
Wolfgang Fuzion

Pics of my ride:

All the pictures above are with the vehicle completely stripped of all product (Dawn + a healthy amount of Griot's Garage Paint Prep) to remove any remaining waxes, sealants or glazes.

It really comes to show HOW IMPORTANT PREP really is and what CLEAN paint can do for a vehicle.

This is one of the few pictures with it after being coated.
Will be taking more later:

For those of you interested, she was on the dyno yesterday:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqOq3bQalkY

Keep up whatever ur doing. U have the best looking Stang I have seen yet!

 

[BobbyG]

As we all know 90% of the shine and depth is all in the prep.

Heres the prep:

- Iron X
- Clay
- Meguiar's D151 Polish
- IPA Bath x2
- Griot's Garage Paint Prep + Dawn Wash
- Duragloss DG601 + DG501 - 1:4 Ratio
- Duragloss DG601 + DG105 - 1:4 Ratio - 3 LAYERS/COATS
- Duragloss DG601 + DG111 - 1:4 Ratio - 2 LAYERS/COATS
- Duragloss Aquawax as a detail spray and drying aid


Is there anything I top top DG111 for some serious pop?

I have Collinite's products, but I'm looking for some with a lot more depth and pop, durability doesn't concern me because I absolutely LOVE layering product on (although there are hardly any benefits)

You say you love layering...... I think someone just likes playing with their new toy.....Lord knows I would!! :drool: :drool: ...........OH, sorry I just drooled on your car.....:laughing:

Your new Mustang is just gorgeous! I like everything about the new Mustangs and they say muscle car all over them.....I wish you the best of luck with your new car!! :cheers:

When using multiple products especially in layers be sure you understand the full scope of their intent or what they actually do.

Duragloss #105 and Duragloss #501 contain cleaners and according to Duragloss; "polishing agents" and polishing agents in my mind are micro abrasives,. The cleaners and polishing agents remove surface oxidation, staining, grime, and the like leaving the finish glass smooth and bright.

I completely understand your intent with all the layering but my fear is each time you applied Duragloss #105 or Duragloss #501 , you were most likely removing any subsequent product that was applied. If you went from Duragloss #501 to Duragloss #111 you might have gained some benefit as Duragloss #111 is a pure sealant without cleaners...the way I interpret it.

Please understand, I'm not being critical, not at all, I think your car is absolutely beautiful. I personally understand and appreciate how much time it takes to make a car look its best but it is possible that a lot of time had hard work may have been for not because of the products design..

Have you ever thought about using a clear wipe-on walk-away sealant? Sealants bond to a clean freshly prepared finish adding both superior gloss and protection...

Just to name a few that I've used.

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Liquid Seal
GTechniq C2v3 Liquid Crystal
Reload Spray Sealant
Optimum Opti-Seal
Blackfire Crystal Seal


Here's an example of using a cleaner, clear sealant, and Wolfgang's Fuzion Wax..

 

[sunday joe]

Bobby G has it right. This is just way overdone. Far too much layering being done here. Learn when to stop.
A shiny car is like shooting a low golf score, no one cares. ( with exceptions )

 

[2shiny]

A shiny car is like shooting a low golf score, no one cares. ( with exceptions )

eeeuhm, guess you forgot on which forum you are we all care about a shiny car here

 

[Dogfather]

There is no absolute final step.
It never ends.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Bobby G has it right. This is just way overdone. Far too much layering being done here.

Learn when to stop.

There is something to be said for standing back, saying to yourself it is finished and then going for a cruise to show off your shiny ride.

Also, there's a term called hitting the wall, or hitting the ceiling. That's when you've perfected the paint to the point that adding any more anything won't take the results to an even higher level.

Pros hit the ceiling just about with every car they work on....

 

[Toxix]

You definitely prepped the heck out of that paint, so I am pretty sure it is "clean", but is it perfect? If the paint is perfect with no hazing or orange peel, it will look great with almost anything on it.

Remember, every layer also has the potential to DECREASE the "pop".

Many products contain ingredients that actually remove whatever it is going on top of. Carbauba waxes contain solvents to make them more user friendly and therefore difficult to layer.

The main purpose of a 2nd coat of any LSP is to make sure you have not missed any spots.


There are millions of opinions in the Wax Wars, this one is mine.

Paint is in solid condition, but you'd be hard pressed to find a new car with no Orange Peel....this car has more orange peel than a...........boat load of oranges?

DG 105 alone would give you about a year. You went with the DG trifecta and I think topping with AWax once a month is enough. For weekly post washes hit it with your favorite detail spray already have more than enough protection as it is. At some point you can over do the layered approach.

Thanks for the input, I'm using the AQ as a drying aid and as a detail spray.

Keep up whatever ur doing. U have the best looking Stang I have seen yet!

Thanks

You say you love layering...... I think someone just likes playing with their new toy.....Lord knows I would!! :drool: :drool: ...........OH, sorry I just drooled on your car.....:laughing:

Your new Mustang is just gorgeous! I like everything about the new Mustangs and they say muscle car all over them.....I wish you the best of luck with your new car!! :cheers:

When using multiple products especially in layers be sure you understand the full scope of their intent or what they actually do.

Duragloss #105 and Duragloss #501 contain cleaners and according to Duragloss; "polishing agents" and polishing agents in my mind are micro abrasives,. The cleaners and polishing agents remove surface oxidation, staining, grime, and the like leaving the finish glass smooth and bright.

I completely understand your intent with all the layering but my fear is each time you applied Duragloss #105 or Duragloss #501 , you were most likely removing any subsequent product that was applied. If you went from Duragloss #501 to Duragloss #111 you might have gained some benefit as Duragloss #111 is a pure sealant without cleaners...the way I interpret it.

Please understand, I'm not being critical, not at all, I think your car is absolutely beautiful. I personally understand and appreciate how much time it takes to make a car look its best but it is possible that a lot of time had hard work may have been for not because of the products design..

Have you ever thought about using a clear wipe-on walk-away sealant? Sealants bond to a clean freshly prepared finish adding both superior gloss and protection...

Just to name a few that I've used.

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Liquid Seal
GTechniq C2v3 Liquid Crystal
Reload Spray Sealant
Optimum Opti-Seal
Blackfire Crystal Seal


Here's an example of using a cleaner, clear sealant, and Wolfgang's Fuzion Wax..

Bobby,

Thanks for taking the time to reply. To start off with, this is my second Stang, my first one looked VERY similar to this one. I think I'll always have one.
It was a 2010 V6 Coupe with 210 hp(lol)
Obviously I enjoyed coating this ride too

This new ride is a 2014 GT Monster V8 @ 420 hp...literally double the hp...quite the ride and she pulls very, very nicely.
Next step is get myself a Shelby, gotta love that 662hp...stock...

Back to detailing, I completely understand what you're saying about applying products in layers.
Consider DG501, I would have no intention on layering this product as it is strictly for cleaning.
DG105, same thing but much less cleaning ability, I still wouldn't go about layering it (again) after I've done my once-a-year prep.

I still haven't had the time to step back and take a look + take pictures of my finished result of DG111.
I'm not saying I'm disappointed in it but merely curious as to whether or not there is something that give me a bit more pop and shine.

I take this car to a lot of shows and it really is a business card on wheels for me.
Standing by my car with a few business cards really brings me interested clients and quite a few nice cars to work with.

Moving on to WOWA products, I plan on Optisealing the car in the next few weeks.
I've switched to Optiseal from Zaino ZCS - I found the durability to be equal, but Optiseal was heck of a lot easier to apply.

Bobby G has it right. This is just way overdone. Far too much layering being done here. Learn when to stop.
A shiny car is like shooting a low golf score, no one cares. ( with exceptions )

Not sure why you're so cranky, but hey..I have a few clients always asking me how I get my ride that shiny.
People care, you just have to be around the right crowds...

eeeuhm, guess you forgot on which forum you are we all care about a shiny car here

^ This...

There is something to be said for standing back, saying to yourself it is finished and then going for a cruise to show off your shiny ride.

Also, there's a term called hitting the wall, or hitting the ceiling. That's when you've perfected the paint to the point that adding any more anything won't take the results to an even higher level.

Pros hit the ceiling just about with every car they work on....

I live on the ceiling Mike, which is why I'm here.