What's the KBM method?

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HouDetails

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Hey guys


I've seen lots of the pros here say they use the KEVIN BROWN METHOD, just wanted to know what exactly is it???? And how does it work??
 
It would be easier for you too do a search on it then try and explain the whole process.It involes using a PC ,priming the pad and using pressure on the pad to correct swirls.Has good results but IMO very time consuming.
 
Harley is there another method for the PC to remove swirls that is less time consuming or are you comparing it to using the rotary to cut first then PC... or all rotary work?
 
Da Fats said:
Harley is there another method for the PC to remove swirls that is less time consuming or are you comparing it to using the rotary to cut first then PC... or all rotary work?
Click to expand...
Lots of people have success using the PC the way it is supposed to be used.
 
Harleyguy said:
It would be easier for you too do a search on it then try and explain the whole process.It involes using a PC ,priming the pad and using pressure on the pad to correct swirls.Has good results but IMO very time consuming.
Click to expand...

Do you see it time consuming due to the method or PC in general? After I tried the flex, I realized I was not reaching the potential with my UDM if that was even possible.

Pad priming is nothing new (although it is more through prior to the first panel) and the need to use pressure (not too much to keep the pad from spinning) are basics anyway for PC polishing.

I still really do not know what is that new.
 
The KBM in a simple explanation is

DA style polisher
When using a new pad, instead of placing product to only portions of the pad, like an X-pattern or a Circle of product, you would take and spread the product evenly over the entire face of the pad and work it in a bit so that when you turn on the machine 100% of the face of the pad begins to work for you immediately.

The theory being that when you place an X-pattern or Circle of product, (or even a few blobs of product), onto the face of the pad and then turn it on that only the areas of the pad that have product on them are functionally working the surface.

While the KBM does insure that 100% of the pad is working from the very beginning, after you apply product using an X-pattern or a Circle pattern a few times to the face of the pad and work a few sections you basically do the same thing as the pad begins to become saturated with product over the entire face merely by the act of working the surface.

RB style polisher
When using a new pad instead of laying down a bead or strip of product you first also spread the product evenly over the entire face of the pad and work it in a bit so that when you turn on the machine 100% of the face of the pad begins to work for you immediately.

You have to be careful that you don't have too much product loose on the surface of the pad as with rotary buffers centrifugal force is stronger influence as compared to a DA style polisher and any loose or excess material will sling outward as splatter.

That's the simple explanation. If you want to get deeper then theoretically after using each application of fresh product you would clean your pad, i.e. remove spent product and removed paint and replace spent product with fresh products.

Once product is spent, that is used up to the point that it's not longer offering any benefit in the way of abrading the paint then theoretically it's not doing anything but acting as moisture assuming it's still wet. The idea behind the KBM is to have 100% of the pad working or abrading the paint and again, theoretically the only way this can take place is if 100% of the product on the pad is working product, that is the opposite of spent product. Just having a moist or wet pad doesn't mean abrading will take place.

The KBM is a good approach when starting out with a fresh pad and also if you want to repeat the procedure after each section or so by cleaning your pad and then re-introducing fresh product to the entire pad before beginning to work the paint again.

As for me? I just let natural process take its place and start out with an X-pattern or Circle pattern of product on the face of any DA style polisher I’m using or lay down a bead or strip of product and pick it up using the 10/10 method for Rotary Buffers or for the Flex 3401

Personal preference, like many things related to detailing cars.

That's a 545 word count simple explanation, probably about as short as I can squeeze out...

It’s likely more complex than what I’ve explained but as I stated in this thread at the beginning, here’s a simple explanation. I’ll see if Kevin will fill in any blanks I’ve missed.



:D
 
Buff Master Mike P...

My first post mentioning you, so here's my first official CONTRATS on your new job at Autogeek. It is nice to see that Autogeek has an official AG Guru in you! :props:
Thanks for e-mailing me for some input on this. The information listed down the line pertains to the random orbital.

First off, the KBM is not for everyone because most guys are more than satisfied with how a random orbital performs as used in its traditional manner. I am good with that! :xyxthumbs: Further, each buffing liquid features the manufacturers recommendations pertaining to the use of that particular product, and polishing enthusiasts should use traditional polishing methods and follow the guidelines set forth by the liquid manufacturer prior to using this procedure. I have always stated that this procedure is not for newbies and that this method is not a replacement for a rotary. Rather, it is simply an alternative method that I use which can deliver a higher degree of success (in terms of defect removal and finishing capability).

The products I've used this procedure with the most are Meguiar's M86 and M105, so that should be kept in mind. Why is there no short answer? Quite simply because the short answer gives directions only, and no theory. Is that really teaching anything? :confused: For quite some time I just e-mailed guys that wanted to know how I was applying M86 and M105 with a random orbital because neither was officially recommended for use with the random orbital. First it was a one-page e-mail, the two, then three. As I kept chasing my tail trying to supplement the procedure, I decided to write about some of the theory behind why I thought it worked so well. Well, it ended up at twenty pages with only four diagrams to take up space. A very boring read unless a guy was truly interested in the theory behind the method!

Once it was finished (a little over a year ago), I had a few guys read it and it became painfully obvious that more diagrams would improve the paper, so I began creating them. I am still not done, and believe me- I wish I was. Time constraints have slowed the completion of the document, but the time is near. Why did I start discussing the "KBM" online? Because Todd Helme aka TH0001 mentioned he used "Kevin Brown's methods of madness" to polish a 1948 Lincoln Zephyr, and the inquiries began.

There is a huge thread of information over on detailingworld that I recently put together after a guy posted his, a-hem... interest in my paper. :cry: I have already been busted for unintentionally linking to another site, so if anyone wants to see the biggest group of information pertaining to the KBM, they've kindly placed it in their Detailing Guide forum, and it is super easy to find.

I am most excited about this: No longer is the random orbital looked upon as an "electric wax applicator", or as a "hazemaker". For some time it was perceived by the big guns as the sissies machine. Some rotary guys still don't like it, and that is fine. I am not writing this paper for them! :surrender:

KBM points to consider when using a random orbital:

Maximize the polishing capabilities of the pad by thoroughly priming it with the buffing liquid.

Minimize the cushioning effects of the pad by applying downward pressure to the machine.

Adjust downward pressure to maintain some random rotation of the backing plate. More rotation is better for defect removal. Less rotation is better for final polishing.

Clean the pad throughout the process. Compressed air is BY FAR the best tool for the job.

Maintain pressure throughout the polishing cycle. This goes for defect removal as well as final polishing.

Prepare the pad for final polishing by priming it and then letting it sit for a couple minutes. Prior to use, remove the excess product from the pad by placing the pad face onto a microfiber towel. Run the machine for a few seconds until the excess material is removed. Then, apply small amounts of buffing liquid as needed. The goal is to have enough polish available to abrade paint away, but not so much that there are clumps of buffing liquid on the pad face or in the pore structure of the pad.

Introducing a spritz of water or detail spray is a no-no because although cutting power may increase, so too will scouring. Besides- wet pads are not helpful.

If scouring is noticeable when the buffing liquid is applied by machine but not by hand, then the pad is the culprit- not the machine. Use a different pad (size or material), or adjust pressure, speed, and amount of product until satisfactory results are achieved.

Thanks again! :buffing:
 
Thanks Kevin, I knew you could better explain the details of your method since you're the source for KBM technique.

Personal request...

Kevin like many of you is a very busy guy so please lets not bombard him with a ton of follow-up questions as I'm not going to personally hold him to answer them and will close the thread instead.

If you're curious about this technique then instead of posting follow-up questions,

First, go out into your garage and try your hand at this technique and gain some first hand and real-world experience.

Second, check out his article on DetailingWorld.co.uk as chances are very good that any question you have is already been asked and answered in-depth as is Kevin's nature and the nature of detailing discussion forums.

Thanks ahead of time.

:props:
 
Thank you mike and kevin for answering my question. I'm a newbie here... just trying to learn all the good procedures that are used by members here.

I will be checking out the website. Thanks again.
 
Kevin thank you for clarifying your method. We always enjoy your input and helping out the members on the forum.
 
Just for the record.......I knew Kevin when he was a nobody! Look at him now!

Kevin certainly deserves props for his passion for shine!!

joe_and_kevin_.jpg
 
Kevin Brown said:
I am most excited about this: No longer is the random orbital looked upon as an "electric wax applicator", or as a "hazemaker". For some time it was perceived by the big guns as the sissies machine. Some rotary guys still don't like it, and that is fine. I am not writing this paper for them! :surrender:
Click to expand...

You got that right Kevin. After much resistance to the initial phase in of the KBM, I too faithfully converted(and haven't looked back). You are the paint correction God! :props::xyxthumbs::dblthumb2:
 
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