Wheel prep

[bcgreen]

I am getting ready to ceramic coat my wheels and I am wondering if 91% IPA is sufficient prep? One of my wheels has been painted and worried it my strip the paint.

 

[DFB]

I am getting ready to ceramic coat my wheels and I am wondering if 91% IPA is sufficient prep? One of my wheels has been painted and worried it my strip the paint.

Wheels can be tricky to coat because they are subjected so much contamination. If you don't get that off before coating, it wont last very long. So if they are used wheels, you'll want to treat with iron remover, clay and then IPA wipe down. But...................you will need to check the with the painter how long until you can coat such fresh paint. I wouldn't use 91% IPA on that wheel, you'll want to cut it with about 40% water to be safe.

 

[bcgreen]

I don't know what the shelf life is on this product but I suspect it is quite short.
Do you think vacuum seal will extend the shelf life?

 

[Setec Astronomy]

I don't know what the shelf life is on this product but I suspect it is quite short.
Do you think vacuum seal will extend the shelf life?

Put it in the freezer.

 

[bcgreen]

Put it in the freezer and vacuum seal or just freeze?

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Put it in the freezer and vacuum seal or just freeze?

I have had a mostly used bottle of Gyeon Rim in the freezer for the last 15 months and it still is liquid and looks fine. Granted, I haven't used it, but it's not cloudy or anything. Just close the bottle tightly as you normally would, and put it in the freezer. Just don't let anyone pour it on their ice cream.

I learned this trick from the member who used to have Chris Farley as the motivational speaker as his avatar, I can't remember his user name. He used to buy coatings by the gallon or something.

 

[Eldorado2k]

Wheels can be tricky to coat because they are subjected so much contamination. If you don't get that off before coating, it wont last very long. So if they are used wheels, you'll want to treat with iron remover, clay and then IPA wipe down. But...................you will need to check the with the painter how long until you can coat such fresh paint. I wouldn't use 91% IPA on that wheel, you'll want to cut it with about 40% water to be safe.

Call me crazy, but I’ve never claybarred contaminants off of wheels, like ever. I’ve tried it a few times but there’s never any to be found on the wheel faces. [the inner barrels might be a different story, but I’ve never bothered there because that would likely mean having to sacrifice a claybar]

Rocker panels are also mostly free of bonded contaminants IME even on the heavily contaminated vehicles. The beltline of the doors is usually the border where bonded contaminants lay above, and vertical surfaces that lay below stay clear of fallout.

 

[DFB]

Call me crazy, but I’ve never claybarred contaminants off of wheels, like ever. I’ve tried it a few times but there’s never any to be found on the wheel faces. [the inner barrels might be a different story.................

Wheel faces, correct. That's because you tend to clean/maintain the wheel face more thoroughly that the barrel, which I've found simply washing your car often tends to prevent the build up of iron. But on barrels, it's certainly a different story because they aren't as readily accessible or visible. You'd be surprised how much crap you will lift from a wheel barrel that otherwise looks spotless and well maintained.

I've clayed used wheels a few times. As I'm sure you know, I'm not necessarily neglecting wheels, but even then, I lifted enough rubbish for it to be worthwhile. If you're going to the effort (and cost) of coating your wheels, an extra few minute's claying is worth doing if you want to see the longevity out of it.

I’ve never bothered there because that would likely mean having to sacrifice a claybar]

Most certainly don't re-use a clay bar after using on wheels. I just tear off a smaller piece rather than sacrificing and entire bar. Also, don't waste time with the synthetic clay towel/mitt/sponges for this role, you absolutely need the extra ability of a real clay bar here.

Claying these things was a nightmare!



Below was what I pulled after an extremely thorough chemical decon, including tar remover, iron remover and high pH wheel cleaner.

 

[bcgreen]

Wow, not envious, looks a major undertaking.
What is the coating that you are using and why vs all others on the market?

 

[DFB]

Wow, not envious, looks a major undertaking.

On those wheels, I had just removed them from the car after getting new wheels. I had no indentions of them going back on the car, but felt compelled to clean and polish them up. If you thought claying those wheels was a major undertaking, just think about polishing each spoke! I didn't bother coating those wheels, just wiped them down with Bead Maker before loading into storage. Actually, I put them back on the car when I traded it in on the new car.

What is the coating that you are using and why vs all others on the market?

The first wheel coating I tried was NV Wheel, but I didn't like it, very lacklustre in terms of hydrophobics and slickness.

I've since moved to ADS High Temp Wheel Coating. I've used this multiple times now, even coated a lawn mower with it. I like this coating because it has excellent hydrophobics, is slick without toppers, and seems to be lasting very well. Actually, it's my favourite ceramic coating. Yes, you pay more for this coating, but I think its worth it. ADS recommend two layers an hour apart, especially on matte or satin finishes, you can get by with a single layer on clear coated wheels.







I know some have questioned the point of dedicated wheel coatings, and I certainly don't buy into the whole "heat tolerance" thing. I'd wager a hood or roof panel is going to get hotter in the summer sun that what a brake rotor would radiate outwards. I also know some have questioned the longevity of this particular ADS coating, but that's not something I've noticed across several wheel sets, including a daily driver. But then I regularly wash and maintain the coating. I think many who coat wheels think its a green light to neglect them because "its coated".

 

[bcgreen]

Whenever you feel the need to recoat are you stripping the previous coating or just doing a good cleaning and apply your new coat?

 

[Desertnate]

When I've coated wheels, my prep has always been pretty simple. I give them a good cleaning with my wheel cleaner, wipe them down with the panel prep I have on hand (usually CarPro Eraser) and then coat them with the paint coating I have on hand (a few different ones over time). Each time I've seen at least a couple years of evidence the coating is still on the wheel surface.

I know some have questioned the point of dedicated wheel coatings, and I certainly don't buy into the whole "heat tolerance" thing. I'd wager a hood or roof panel is going to get hotter in the summer sun that what a brake rotor would radiate outwards.

This has been my experience. While an autocross event it is far more intense over short time periods than normal driving, but much less than someone doing a session at a track day/HPDE. In the dead of summer when the sun is blazing and the surface temps are high, my hood and engine bay is FAR hotter than my wheels. I can barely touch my hood to get it raised after a run and the engine bay under the hood feels hot enough to grill a steak. The wheels and tires are warm but easy to touch, and I frequently do as I adjust tire pressures. The brake rotors are hot and you can feel heat radiating from them, but the wheels are far cooler.

But then I regularly wash and maintain the coating. I think many who coat wheels think its a green light to neglect them because "its coated".

I think some people take the same philosophy with the paint too. The only reason I coat my wheels is to make them easier to clean, and maybe provide a little protection in the depths of winter when I go months between washings due to the weather.

 

[bcgreen]

Wheel faces, correct. That's because you tend to clean/maintain the wheel face more thoroughly that the barrel, which I've found simply washing your car often tends to prevent the build up of iron. But on barrels, it's certainly a different story because they aren't as readily accessible or visible. You'd be surprised how much crap you will lift from a wheel barrel that otherwise looks spotless and well maintained.

I've clayed used wheels a few times. As I'm sure you know, I'm not necessarily neglecting wheels, but even then, I lifted enough rubbish for it to be worthwhile. If you're going to the effort (and cost) of coating your wheels, an extra few minute's claying is worth doing if you want to see the longevity out of it.



Most certainly don't re-use a clay bar after using on wheels. I just tear off a smaller piece rather than sacrificing and entire bar. Also, don't waste time with the synthetic clay towel/mitt/sponges for this role, you absolutely need the extra ability of a real clay bar here.

Claying these things was a nightmare!



Below was what I pulled after an extremely thorough chemical decon, including tar remover, iron remover and high pH wheel cleaner.



What claybar are you using?

I have a mitt but not ideal for tight wheel spaces, but more efficient on paint.

 

[DFB]

This has been my experience. While an autocross event it is far more intense over short time periods than normal driving, but much less than someone doing a session at a track day/HPDE. In the dead of summer when the sun is blazing and the surface temps are high, my hood and engine bay is FAR hotter than my wheels. I can barely touch my hood to get it raised after a run and the engine bay under the hood feels hot enough to grill a steak. The wheels and tires are warm but easy to touch, and I frequently do as I adjust tire pressures. The brake rotors are hot and you can feel heat radiating from them, but the wheels are far cooler.

100%

I think some people take the same philosophy with the paint too.

100%

The only reason I coat my wheels is to make them easier to clean, and maybe provide a little protection in the depths of winter when I go months between washings due to the weather.

Same. I can take or leave ceramic on paint and glass. On wheels it's kinda necessary, especially if you have complex wheel faces that restrict access, and/or brakes that produce heavy amounts of dust.

 

[DFB]

Whenever you feel the need to recoat are you stripping the previous coating or just doing a good cleaning and apply your new coat?

On matte or satin finish wheels, you are restricted to simply being thorough with high-pH cleaners, iron removers and clay. On gloss or cleared wheels, you can add polishing into the mix.