When is a PC not good enough?

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heavychevy

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I have been debating on if I should get a rotary buffer or not. I have a good history in detailing and have used a PC now for the last couple of years. I had been using Zaino but wanted to try something a little more aggressive so I ordered some Optimum HC/C/P and some Pinnacle Souveran. This is where the PC comes in, while I dont have any doubt about it's value it seems as though there something more is needed. I will mostly be using it on my personal cars and starting with a stock hood which I replaced from my corvette to practice on.

I have some bad marring in the CC on the rear quarter panel of my vette (coupe) from where the person tinting it leaned back over the car and a pocket button or something scratched it, Zaino ZFX worked wonders, but I can still see it and I done everything short of standing on the PC (220lbs btw) but they wont go away.


So my question, do most of you guys try the PC first and then if it's not doing the trick move up to the Rotary or can you tell by looking at it?
 
Generally, if you run your fingernail over the scratch and it catches, a PC probably won't be able to get rid of it. Rotaries are best for really bad cars and saving time. Some paint is very hard and a rotary saves you LOTS of time, but even on soft paint a rotary gets the job done faster. If you feel comfortable using a tool that can SERIOUSLY mess up your paint, go ahead and get a rotary, but if you rather be safer and have time to spare, a PC is fine. BTW, OHC doesn't work that great with a PC because it doesn't generate enough heat.
 
A rotary is designed for the experienced and has its place for professional detailers and body shops. It has a steeper learning curve and can cause some serious trouble if used incorrectly.

I never found Zfx to be that great a polish (plus it actually stained my rubber surround Honey Dew Green). It sounds like you need to move to a more aggressive polish and pad combo first, before giving up on the PC altogether. Vettes clear is very, very hard meaning you need alot of time and patience anyways.
 
Rotary + Autoglym pads (crap) + MG #85 = keep away from plastic!!!, (it melts) So im going back to the rotary training level again, before i use it on my car.

Meguiars has a training DVD that can put u on the right track, but practise is the only way to go when it comes to rotary

Im staying with the PC/megs G100.
 
1st get plenty of experience with your PC,pads,polish etc ..once you have done this a rotory will feel like second nature. use the correct pads a non abbrassive polish to start with work at slow speeds move easy and you'll pick it up just like riding a bike.. But give your PC sometime before you upgrade to a rotory ..a rotory is much less forgiving then a PC and requires total concentration..
 
I finally decided to purchase a rotary when certain cars I worked on needed more than the PC could dish out, at least within a reasonable time frame. I still primarily use the PC (at least until I get more time behind the rotary), but it's nice to have the rotary available for tougher areas.
 
Sevenrd said:
I finally decided to purchase a rotary when certain cars I worked on needed more than the PC could dish out, at least within a reasonable time frame. I still primarily use the PC (at least until I get more time behind the rotary), but it's nice to have the rotary available for tougher areas.
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This is exactly what I plan to use it for, the occasional places where the Rotary wont work. I have plenty of experience with the PC but could use some learning in process and upgrade my polishes and pads as well.

So far I havent gone past a orange but have a yellow on order. I have only used the Poorboys SSR 2.5 and Zaino ZFX, both on orange pad of course and got a lot more out of the ZFX.

My plan now is to try

yellow pad + optimum compound + optimum polish + EXP + Souveran


I also plan to give the XMT line a run too so hopefully I will have found my answer.
 
have you played around with the idea of using 4'' spot buff pads with a smaller backing plate on your PC ? it produces significantly more cutting ability, slightly more heat and will spin more with the smaller pad, especially when used with an agressive product. . .

I use a Hitachi Rotary, and the places on paint finishes where I am uncomfortable using it get the PC with a 4'' pad. Works for me, best of luck . .
 
fdizzle said:
have you played around with the idea of using 4'' spot buff pads with a smaller backing plate on your PC ? it produces significantly more cutting ability, slightly more heat and will spin more with the smaller pad, especially when used with an agressive product. . .

I use a Hitachi Rotary, and the places on paint finishes where I am uncomfortable using it get the PC with a 4'' pad. Works for me, best of luck . .
Click to expand...

That's a great idea! I think I will try that as well. I only intend to use the rotary on certain spots where the PC doesnt work, as an insurance policy so to speak. I have used a rotary before but was detailing for my uncle in high school and that was ten years ago and technology has surely changed since then, but for the better I hope.
 
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