When To Wetsand?

[ZombieWrex]

I am in the process of putting everything together for a paint correction on my black Audi A3. There are some scratches and problem spots that I am fairly certain will need to be wet sanded. Now what I am wonder is should I compound first to see what is the compound and DA will take out first and then wet sand if necessary and re-correct the area? Or go ahead and wet sand before I make the clear coat even thinner with compound? Thank you

 

[TTQ B4U]

Do you really need to compound? I would try some polish on a microfiber pad first. Then perhaps finish with polish on a white pad to remove any hazing. If you have a Forced Rotation unit, jump to wool and polish then a white pad and more polish to finish up.

Overall though, yes, I would hit it with a buffer first and then evaluate the need to sand. The follow up polishing phase will likely take care of any sanding marks as you're not likely going to need much grit.


Sent from my iPad using AGOnline

 

[LSNAutoDetailingLSNAutoDetailing is verified member.]

Start here:https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...lips/87410-clearcoats-thin-mike-phillips.html

Then go here: https://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

Then these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2uSYvuLucA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulWXODgg8V4

Do you have a PTG (paint thickness gauge)? If your paint is OEM original, I would not wet sand. We say "least aggressive method" because you want to see if that will resolve your issues while keeping the most clear-coat on the vehicle.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I am in the process of putting everything together for a paint correction on my black Audi A3. There are some scratches and problem spots that I am fairly certain will need to be wet sanded.

Now what I am wonder is should I compound first to see what is the compound and DA will take out first and then wet sand if necessary and re-correct the area?

Or go ahead and wet sand before I make the clear coat even thinner with compound?

Thank you

Compound first.

Then and only if you MUST - then remove the RIDS via the feather sanding technique.


Click the link - look at the picture to see how it's done.

RIDS and Feathersanding - A Highly Specialized Technique by Mike Phillips


I'd also highly recommend reading this article and then grab a post-it note and feel it between your fingers and let it sink in...

Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips




Is this a show car?

Or a daily driver?

 

[WillSports3]

If it's factory paint, you should basically never wet sand. That's the safest rule. If it's a repaint and you have a paint thickness gauge, then thats your judgement call.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

If it's factory paint, you should basically never wet sand. That's the safest rule.

If it's a repaint and you have a paint thickness gauge, then thats your judgement call.

Couldn't agree more with the above.

Fact is factory paint is too thin for the average person to tackle wet sanding, compounding and polishing. The problem is you might be able to get 90% of it tackled with no problems. As soon as you sand or buff through the clear layer it's

Game Over

At this point - the only salvation is re-painting.


If you - or anyone - is going to do any sanding on factory paint, stick with high quality finishing papers and finishing discs (for machine work), avoid inexpensive wet/dry papers. The risk of leaving tracers is too high and this leads to a Catch-22 problem that can result in buffing through.


Now if you have some skill and experience, the maybe do what I call

Scuff and Buff

To just the major panels.