Which Menzerna 1-Step for water spots?

E

Emile

New member
Joined
Aug 20, 2008
Messages
1,715
Reaction score
0
Hi,

I have brought this up in a thread before and got some answers but none of them worked. When I took delivery of my 08 WRX, although it was new with only 28 miles on the odometer, it had etched-in water spots mainly on the hood. I have tried Klasse AIO, Optimum Poli-Seal, and Optimum Polish, all with white pad and none of these products were able to remove the water spots. Claying did not work either.

Is there any Menzerna polish I can use with a white pad (i.e. the final polish step) that can remove these water spots? Since the vehicle only has 13K on the odometer, I don't want to go too abrasive but I want nice results with only a 1-step system. Which is best for this case?

Thanks,
Emile
 
It's possible they may have etched to deep for a 1-step, or finishing polish.

I'd say go with Nano and try it first with a blue LC pad. If that doesn't work try it with a white LC pad and follow with a blue.
 
Yeah I'm also curious what product is out there I got water spots too, Tried Klasse AIO it reduced that water spots but still there
 
JAM-FL said:
Yeah I'm also curious what product is out there I got water spots too, Tried Klasse AIO it reduced that water spots but still there
Click to expand...

I don't think the answer is that simple. If the water spots have etched into the paint, the only way to remove them, is to remove enough paint to get to the lowest point of the defect you're trying to remove. So what product you need to use really depends on how far the water spots have etched down into your paint. ;)

Rasky
 
You could try Nano...but maybe step up your pad to a green or white to give you a little more cut. As Rasky has said, you probably will need to do more than a 1 step. I want to say that Subaru's have hard CCs, but I'm not 100% sure on it. There would be nothing wrong with going to a 2 step system like SIP/Nano.
 
Emile said:
When I took delivery of my 08 WRX, although it was new with only 28 miles on the odometer, it had etched-in water spots mainly on the hood.Since the vehicle only has 13K on the odometer,
Click to expand...
Any chance you pointed out the damage to your dealer early on in your ownership?
The reason I ask is that you may end up needing some paint work before this is all finished.
RaskyR1 said:
If the water spots have etched into the paint, the only way to remove them, is to remove enough paint to get to the lowest point of the defect you're trying to remove.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, there is the chance that you will have to remove enough paint to compromise the finish of the vehicle.
That's where the dealer comes in. If they have to remove enough paint that it causes a problem, the paintwork will be at their expense.
If you remove too much paint, then it is your problem.
 
how do etched water spots compare to minor swirls as far as depth goes?
 
Well I don't want my vehicle to be resprayed but I also don't want to go as aggressive as orange. From what I can tell by feel and by sight, my vehicle is a hard clear coat but it is thin. I don't want to take off too much paint and end up with no more cleaercoat. :eek:

Perhaps I need to get some Power Finish and use white pads, and then Micro or Nano with green, and then apply my wax/sealant. It just takes so much god damn time to do two steps to the entire car though. :mad:
 
Emile said:
Well I don't want my vehicle to be resprayed but I also don't want to go as aggressive as orange. From what I can tell by feel and by sight, my vehicle is a hard clear coat but it is thin. I don't want to take off too much paint and end up with no more cleaercoat. :eek:

Perhaps I need to get some Power Finish and use white pads, and then Micro or Nano with green, and then apply my wax/sealant. It just takes so much god damn time to do two steps to the entire car though. :mad:
Click to expand...

It takes whatever it takes to remove the defects.

I had a Hyundai with etched water spots. After claying and IP on orange and then yellow LC they were still there, you couldn't even feel them. I ended up using Megs 105 with a LC PFW pad and most of 'em came right off with one pass. The 2nd pass got the rest and 105 finished well enough, even with the PFW, to go right to wax if I wasn't so finicky. You can be as gentle or as aggressive as you deal appropriate with 105 and PFW, it all depends on the pressure you exert and how long you work it.

I'd expect you'll be more careful with a PC than a dealer's lackey with a rotary and an aggressive wool pad. Some CC definitely has to come off in order to get rid of the water spots though.

New cars travel on boats and trains and sit around places collecting industrial crap, acid rain, etc, without any protection. It isn't rare to find water spots on 'em or a dealer that does incomplete or lackluster prep.

As for the time and effort it takes for 1 vs 2 steps, it depends on what kind of results you're willing to settle for. Assuming you bought the PC because you wanted a flawless finish you're gonna have to work for it. Once you get it where you want it, like with just about everything, it'll be easier to maintain than it is to fix.

TL
 
Emile, not to be belligerent, but how do you know that your cc is thin? Did you use a paint meter? Looks like you may have to get more aggressive in your polishing to get rid of those water marks. Good Luck!
 
Emile said:
Hi,

I have brought this up in a thread before and got some answers but none of them worked. When I took delivery of my 08 WRX, although it was new with only 28 miles on the odometer, it had etched-in water spots mainly on the hood. I have tried Klasse AIO, Optimum Poli-Seal, and Optimum Polish, all with white pad and none of these products were able to remove the water spots. Claying did not work either.

Is there any Menzerna polish I can use with a white pad (i.e. the final polish step) that can remove these water spots? Since the vehicle only has 13K on the odometer, I don't want to go too abrasive but I want nice results with only a 1-step system. Which is best for this case?

Thanks,
Emile
Click to expand...

Emile, what do you have for pads and products to work with right now?

Can someone comment as to how aggressive the KAIO and Optimum polishes Emily has already tried so far? I have not used them so it's hard to say what to use next. Either way you want to use the least aggressive method needed, which is why I ask what you have availible now.

Rasky
 
Optimum Polish is designed to be pad dependant. For example, if I use Opt Polish + orange, then it is more aggressive and then I have to follow up with Opt Polish + white. If I start with Opt Polish + white then obviously I can go straight to wax.

I also have Poorboy's SSR2.5. I have Optimum Polish, Optimum Poli-Seal, and maybe something else I am forgetting. I have orange, white, and green pads but I am going to just order all new pads and possibly some Menzerna polish(es) to do the job. While I can re-use the orange pads, the white and green pads are reserved for cleaner waxes and I do not want to mix and match products and pads.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Emile, what do you have for pads and products to work with right now?

Can someone comment as to how aggressive the KAIO and Optimum polishes Emily has already tried so far? I have not used them so it's hard to say what to use next. Either way you want to use the least aggressive method needed, which is why I ask what you have availible now.

Rasky
Click to expand...
Klasse AIO seems to be mostly a chemical cleaner in my experience.
A good one, but for any true paint removal, I think it would be pad dependent. The KAIO isn't going to do much paint removal.

The Poli-Seal does seem to have some abrasives, but it also is somewhat on the mild side and pad dependent. I don't think it is likely to remove enough paint to correct many defects when used with a PC. Another good product, but probably not the one for this job.
 
Emile said:
Optimum Polish is designed to be pad dependant. For example, if I use Opt Polish + orange, then it is more aggressive and then I have to follow up with Opt Polish + white. If I start with Opt Polish + white then obviously I can go straight to wax.

I also have Poorboy's SSR2.5. I have Optimum Polish, Optimum Poli-Seal, and maybe something else I am forgetting. I have orange, white, and green pads but I am going to just order all new pads and possibly some Menzerna polish(es) to do the job. While I can re-use the orange pads, the white and green pads are reserved for cleaner waxes and I do not want to mix and match products and pads.
Click to expand...

So is it like System One or Megs Solo?


Wish I could be more help, I've just not used any of those polishes.

Regardless, I'd say anything more aggresive than Nano and a white LC pad, your going to need to follow up with a second step. I'd probably even follow that up with a blue LC pad if it were me.

Rasky :cheers:
 
Thanks a lot for the help so far guys.

Rsurfer, like I mentioned before, it just seems to be a thin (but hard) paint job but I have no factual way of determining this. All I can say is that my G35 clearcoat gets raped in the automatic wash whereas my Subaru has very little scratching from the same machine wash.

Rasky, the Optimum Polish is kind of like the Meg's Solo and System One polishes but less dedicated. I believe System One works as a compound when using the wool side, and as a polish/finishing polish when using the foam side. Optimum makes Optimum Polish and Optimum Compound, the Compound obviously being the more aggressive product of the two. But Optimum Polish can be used with different pads to do different jobs. Optimum Polish and an orange cutting pad is a very capable cutting polish, and then you would follow up with Optimum Polish and a white pad to serve as a finishing polish. Optimum gives you the specs on what sanding scratches the Polish and Compound can remove based on what pad you are using.
Certainly great products at a great price (I believe like $20 for 32oz), but I think I'm gonna have to go Menzerna two-step for this.

I'm thinking PowerFinish w/Green Pads and then Micro w/Gray Pads.
 
Last edited:
Emile said:
Thanks a lot for the help so far guys.

Rsurfer, like I mentioned before, it just seems to be a thin (but hard) paint job but I have no factual way of determining this. All I can say is that my G35 clearcoat gets raped in the automatic wash whereas my Subaru has very little scratching from the same machine wash.

Rasky, the Optimum Polish is kind of like the Meg's Solo and System One polishes but less dedicated. I believe System One works as a compound when using the wool side, and as a polish/finishing polish when using the foam side. Optimum makes Optimum Polish and Optimum Compound, the Compound obviously being the more aggressive product of the two. But Optimum Polish can be used with different pads to do different jobs. Optimum Polish and an orange cutting pad is a very capable cutting polish, and then you would follow up with Optimum Polish and a white pad to serve as a finishing polish. Optimum gives you the specs on what sanding scratches the Polish and Compound can remove based on what pad you are using.
Certainly great products at a great price (I believe like $20 for 32oz), but I think I'm gonna have to go Menzerna two-step for this.

I'm thinking PowerFinish w/Green Pads and then Micro w/Gray Pads.
Click to expand...

Right on. I normally would have just looked it up, but for some reason Autogeek.net is blocked at my work, the forum is not. :confused:
 
You will be fine using an orange pad with SIP. After that, go back over it again with SIP, but use a white pad. Then finally finish up with something like Nano and a blue pad. Chances are you're not going to get this done right using only a 1 step correction process. You also don't have to be scared about taking off too much clear because the PC isn't that aggressive.
 
Cool thanks for the posts guys.

Do you guys think I can do PowerFinish with a white pad and then go straight to Micro or Nano with a gray pad?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top