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are you gonna tackle by hand or machine? Number 7 method works great on some applications .I found out pledge works great pre nourish the area simply by spraying panel let it dwell for,10 min the start buffing.sometimes 7 gets dried into the paint causing buffer walking and gumming the pad up quickly especially on gelcoats and rv.The oxidation is uneven. It's mostly on the rear doors and trunk area, the hood is actually in fairly good condition.
I read an article earlier that talked about using Meg's sealer reseal glaze to sort of moisturize the paint before doing a compound/polish but I'm not sure if this would be work well on my car.
Also, I have some Meg's ultimate compound lying around. Would that work in place of the Uber?
Toyota has a white that is single stage, but the same color is also available in clear coat too.Does anyone know if the white paint used on the 2004 Camry is single stage? If so, how should I go about restoring oxidation/dullness?
Which method do you think would be best? I do have a DA polisher so it's an option. I've never had to use #7 before.
Sequoia versa etc are base coat clear coat Camry and Tacoma are ss.Toyota has a white that is single stage, but the same color is also available in clear coat too.
Instead of waiting for an answer, just take Ultimate Compound or Ultimate Polish on a microfiber towel and rub. If there is any paint transfer (which obviously will be white so don't use a white towel) then you have your answer.
Look for the paint code on the driver's door jam. If it reads 040 it is indeed single stage Toyota Super White.
you shouldn't have a promblem.Hate to resurrect an old thread but I figured it would be easier... How should I go about compounding and polishing the smaller spaces that my DA doesn't fit? Could I use an MF and do it by hand, or would it look uneven?