White single stage paint

[DaveT435]

I'm working with some white single stage Toyota paint (040). I know on the heavily oxidized single stage paint you let it soak up the oils from Megs No 7. I'm wondering if this is a good practice for single stage paint with light oxidation to have the paint in the best possible condition before starting or if that would be a waste of time and product.

 

[Jaretr1]

This isnt an answer to your question but I have a car with White single stage paint and one with white clearcoated and the single stage definitely has more gloss. I think in general single stage paints can have a higher gloss than clearcoats

 

[BillyJack]

Here's a good thread to read:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22982-lesson-white-paint-teaches-us.html

Bill

 

[conquistador]

I'd skip #7. It does nothing to Toyota Super White. I only use #7 on vehicle older than 20 yrs. with single stage paint. I'd go straight to a compound or a medium cut polish. Super white is very hard

 

[DaveT435]

I'd skip #7. It does nothing to Toyota Super White. I only use #7 on vehicle older than 20 yrs. with single stage paint. I'd go straight to a compound or a medium cut polish. Super white is very hard

Thanks

 

[DaveT435]

Here's a good thread to read:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22982-lesson-white-paint-teaches-us.html

Bill

Thanks

 

[RTexasF]

The only time I ever had to use aggressive yellow pads (Lake Country) and a serious compound (Poorboys #3) was on a Corolla with white single stage paint. It was a bugger and took several steps to get it looking decent and glossy once again. Even with a Cyclo, and many pads, it was a bear to get it right. I wish you the best outcome.

 

[JimmyH5]

this may not answer your question either, but recently hand rubbed out a '96 corolla with cheap Scratch Out compound; took 2 days... still shines 5 months later; maybe this above approach, then #7, then #26..?

 

[DaveT435]

The only time I ever had to use aggressive yellow pads (Lake Country) and a serious compound (Poorboys #3) was on a Corolla with white single stage paint. It was a bugger and took several steps to get it looking decent and glossy once again. Even with a Cyclo, and many pads, it was a bear to get it right. I wish you the best outcome.

Last time I did one it was pretty heavily oxidized. I hit it with a rotary, wool, and 105. It went pretty quick. The paint actually didn't look too bad after that step.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I'm working with some white single stage Toyota paint (040). I know on the heavily oxidized single stage paint you let it soak up the oils from Megs No 7.

I'm wondering if this is a good practice for single stage paint with light oxidation to have the paint in the best possible condition before starting or if that would be a waste of time and product.

I wouldn't soak it in #7 I would just compound or polish and the LSP.


The #7 technique is rally for antique single stage paint where it's IMPORTANT to the owner of the classic car to preserve the original paint because THEY don't want to repaint the car.

Here's that article for all the members and lurkers that will read this thread into the future....

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints



Last year we did do a #7 rub-out to a more modern car with heavily oxidized paint but this was more because I wanted to impart the knowledge and skills for how to do the #7 rub-out to the guys that attend my Thursday night classes so if they ever have the chance to restore REAL antique single stage paint they will both,

Know what to do - that's head knowledge

How to do it - that's hands on experience


Here's that thread,

1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Single Stage Paint

Before

AFTER

I did also show the students that attended one of my Detailing Boot Camp Classes this technique on the REAL DEAL.

It's my guess this is the FIRST time ever in a formal detailing class where people, (students/newbies), were able to work on someone else's bona-fide all original classic car with the original single stage paint.


This is also going to be on "My Classic Car" with Dennis Gage.


Rupes Bigfoot Polishers Detailing Class & Extreme Paint Restoration



Another first in the car detailing industry
The original antique single stage paint on this 1967 Lincoln Continental Convertible was hurting for certain. It's not only old but it's dried-out, oxidized and brittle.

My article on how to restore antique single stage paint is the only article like it in the world and teaching a class using the real deal, that is a real classic car with the original paint is the first time a true class has been taught showing how to properly restore antique single stage paint using the techniques I share in my article.

So this is a first in the industry and what makes it more unique is that Richard, one of the cameramen from My Classic Car with Dennis Gage was here to record this rare and unique opportunity for a future episode of My Classic Car.


Watch as the amazing transformation takes place before your very eyes.....



Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze - Been around since the time of the Model T

Each project starts with a demonstration, in this example the correct technique for applying Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze and really working it into the paint is shown.

Here you can see Richard from "My Classic Car" filming this demonstration.

First... here's the before pictures.....

Here's the after pictures....

The below picture is the same picture as above only flipped vertically

I won't post the after shots of the interior till I get to the process pictures showing the interior being machine scrubbed and steam cleaned....



Now that was a landmark detailing class by anyone's standards. What a rare opportunity.

 

[Charleston]

D151 and a white or orange pad works wonders on SS white yota paint

 

[beamerstrumpet]

I know its an old post but im digging it up.
I know this is an older thread but it is fitting. I wanted to share my trials with a SS high solids practice panel. Equipment I had on hand when I started. HF 5 in DA, a finishing sander, a 5 inch Black and Decker 5 in orbital sander and a 3in bp from a head light kit, different grades paper and some backing foam and a hard rubber paper holder. I started the panel by dividing the halves and saving a corner for what was the starting point.

And my first mistake was wet sanding too aggressive with 400 wet with a makeshift padding on a finishing sander. (ok you can laugh now, but hey I was trying to see what would and would not work)

It had serious orange peel, I was to find out later that the more I tried to make my first mistake better,, it was worse. However this did not come out till much later. I worked up the paper in standard increments and got to 800 and 1000, you can see what was used with them. (hind sight, don’t use hard rubber block for paint. (NOTE I did not have a trizact “kit” just some left over from headlights)

I was working the right side and leaving the left to see where it would end up after I screwed up the right. Now it was 3000 time and I was salvaging the 3 in disk from the 3M headlight kit, and making my own and gluing them to the worn out disks.

Well a lot of cussing and frustrations later I determine,” HEY NOW IS THE TIME TO BUY A ROTARY AND WOOL PADS “ ( Oh, I was using M85, HD Cut and UC, whatever I thought I could get to work)
So it’s a long time that the panel sits, I get a rotary and wool. I grab M85 Diamond cut max cut, and go to town over the whole pate. By this time the whole thing is un-taped. In the following pics, you will notice the area where the orange was as there is a noticeable line. It is being illuminated by 4 90W CFL spots on a cowboy photo stand. The darker pics have had the mid tones adjusted so you can see how bad the OP was in the corner. Is the finish perfect? NO. is it a far site better? YES Did I learn something? A WHOLE LOT!
As I said, I used the rotary with M85. I followed that with the new Meguiars MT300 with the 5 in BP. I used a yellow B&S (heavy cut) with HD Cut. Then a orange also with Cut, then a a white with HD Polish. I gave it a good IPA wipe down and took pics. And the next day I hit it with HD touch.
In this shot you will see where I also burned through the paint with the sanders. Lesson learned again!

This one is left side, and a bit dark so you can see the finish surface. Upper is the original, which by the way was hit with the rotary and the Megs and still looks bad. The lower, is verything.

Same picture no messing with mid tones and contrast

Another view of left side

Right side.

Well here ends my hard lessons but I did learn a lot. One note,, the guy who painted this panel said the paint was expired, but wanted to see what I could do. And I wanted to miss around with it.So when You hear “HIGH SOLIDS” GET READY TO WORK!