Who has had Opti Coat 2.0 on their car the longest??

K

Kaban

New member
Joined
Jan 31, 2011
Messages
908
Reaction score
0
I want to begin by saying I have never used Opti-Coat 2.0. I want to get some and apply it on my car maybe around spring time.

I am so used to sealants, nano coatings, and waxes losing their beading and sheeting power over time that a part of me just refuses to believe there is anything on the market that is really "permenant".

I have heard time and time again that even if an LSP stops beading after time, it's not an indication that it's no longer doing it's job. Well... to me it is an indication that it failed. I have to see it to believe it.

That brings me to my question with Opti-Coat 2.0

To those who have applied it on their car and put it through real world use, how long does it last before it no longer beads? Please, only comment if you have applied it once and never topped it with any other LSPs or added additional coats of OC 2.0 after time...because that doesn't count.

Looking forward to hear what your real world experience is! :xyxthumbs:
 
Have had mine about six months and no change in beading... Loads of people have had it longer than me though and can answer for longer durability questions.
 
Short term here. I applied it to my truck and car back in April/Mayish. I follwed my normal routine of weekly or so washes through the summer and then decided to slow it down some to test. Every 3 or 4 weeks washes were still as easy as can be. I've done a couple rinseless washes since it really got cold and it washes like it has a fresh coat of Menz PL (or your choice LSP) going. Cleans easy, dries easy, doesn't hold on to contamination like usual, it's the s**t!
 
Also, please include how often you washed your car after application.
 
snowking724 said:
Short term here. I applied it to my truck and car back in April/Mayish. I follwed my normal routine of weekly or so washes through the summer and then decided to slow it down some to test. Every 3 or 4 weeks washes were still as easy as can be. I've done a couple rinseless washes since it really got cold and it washes like it has a fresh coat of Menz PL (or your choice LSP) going. Cleans easy, dries easy, doesn't hold on to contamination like usual, it's the s**t!
Click to expand...

Man that sht (haha) sounds even more tempting now. Was it hard to apply?
 
I'm very interested in the replies here, so count me subscribed!
 
I have to admit I appreciate scepticism about claims that a product remains, even when the hydrophobic character is lost. I do know this can be the case with some technologies but I suspect it is sometimes used when it should not. It would be nice perhaps for those making such claims to give a bit more justification because, like you say, in some regards the loss of beading does indeed constitute a 'fail' - notably the easy to clean character which is one of the major selling points.

That is not levelled at opticoat, by the way.
 
Mr Megane said:
I have to admit I appreciate scepticism about claims that a product remains, even when the hydrophobic character is lost. I do know this can be the case with some technologies but I suspect it is sometimes used when it should not. It would be nice perhaps for those making such claims to give a bit more justification because, like you say, in some regards the loss of beading does indeed constitute a 'fail' - notably the easy to clean character which is one of the major selling points.

That is not levelled at opticoat, by the way.
Click to expand...

For me, a good LSP is supposed to make the paint slick, easy to wash off bugs as well as other contaminants. The first several washes are usually greeted by nice tight beading, and it eventually degrades from there to a point where there is no beading at all. I use Collinite 845 alot, I love that wax but I can never even get close to their claimed 6-8 months (or whatever it is) in durability. I can maybe get a good 2-3 months at the most, after that the beading sucks and I feel an additional coat is necessary.

Yeah it's all about the prep, blah blah blah. I prep no worse than the next guy.....dawn wash/dry, clay completely, multiple IPA wipedowns... so it's not in the prep.
 
Mr Megane said:
I have to admit I appreciate scepticism about claims that a product remains, even when the hydrophobic character is lost. I do know this can be the case with some technologies but I suspect it is sometimes used when it should not. It would be nice perhaps for those making such claims to give a bit more justification because, like you say, in some regards the loss of beading does indeed constitute a 'fail' - notably the easy to clean character which is one of the major selling points.

That is not levelled at opticoat, by the way.
Click to expand...

I have to agree with this. IMHO if there is no beading the wax/sealant/coating is no longer doing its "full" job.

Sent from my LG-VM701 using AG Online
 
Kaban said:
Man that sht (haha) sounds even more tempting now. Was it hard to apply?
Click to expand...

Nope. That's going to be the real test though. I applied in a roughly 110º garage. Dang, now i'm remembering the sweat that went into it. It flashed real fast so I had some leveling to do afterwards. But besides that it went nice and easy.
 
Flashed~when applying, the product will become clear, like your clear coat, and the carriers evaporate away. If there's any shiny/oily residue left you simply wipe away.
Leveling~when your not quick enough wiping this residue away, you must level it with something. Opt recommends their Poli-Seal.
 
Kaban said:
What is "flashed" and "leveling"?
Click to expand...

have you ever used rubbing alcohol? You know when you swipe it into something you can see it... And then like two seconds later it disappeared. That's flashing.

If after twenty minutes there's anywhere where you can still see the product, then you use a microfiber and wipe off the excess very gently. That's leveling it.
 
snowking724 said:
Flashed~when applying, the product will become clear, like your clear coat, and the carriers evaporate away. If there's any shiny/oily residue left you simply wipe away.
Leveling~when your not quick enough wiping this residue away, you must level it with something. Opt recommends their Poli-Seal.
Click to expand...

ihaveacamaro said:
have you ever used rubbing alcohol? You know when you swipe it into something you can see it... And then like two seconds later it disappeared. That's flashing.

If after twenty minutes there's anywhere where you can still see the product, then you use a microfiber and wipe off the excess very gently. That's leveling it.
Click to expand...

Well that's real simple. Thanks

Would it be a problem to "level" it with a MF towel as usual or would it mess with the freshly applied coating?
 
Kaban said:
Well that's real simple. Thanks

Would it be a problem to "level" it with a MF towel as usual or would it mess with the freshly applied coating?
Click to expand...
If you're quick enough you can level it with a MF, otherwise it needs a just a real light polish.

I found these two videos really helpful. There was one more but I can't remember which one it was. Haven't used OC myself yet, but will be this summer.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qu3qtG3DjM]Application: Optimum Coatings.wmv - YouTube[/video]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5itLTTTMexE]Opti-Coat 2.0 application.wmv - YouTube[/video]
 
The absolute best way I have ever used opticoat is a way that Chris at.optimum showed and that's to put it in one of those fine mist travel pump things and spray it on the applicator. Makes life much easier
 
In reality the use of 'flash' is not just on the button and when detailers use it, they are simply referring to solvents evaporating away - more or less a fancy way of saying 'dry'!
 
I don't use anything over Opti-Coat because it negates the properties of the OC and it also will only "stick" for a week or less before it is gone.

I did notice that you will still need to clay Opti-Coat. I used to work near some train tracks and I got debris on the car that doesn't come off in a normal wash. I also have normal road debris stuck to the car from driving on the highway.

A little disappointing but understandable bc it isnt a forcefield.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top