Why to use IronX on any car ! ?

Avi@CarPro

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Hi Guys

i thought share this with you,
this is a completely brand new Citroen DS3 car , had its nylon still attached on it(front bonnet)
and came for full detailing at one of our dealer in Netherlands

check this out :

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4N1X-gO-eAw]IronX on a brand new Citroen DS3 - YouTube[/video]

so even if you think the car is new , please advise your customers its still very contaminated. !
 
Nice video Avi! :props:

How important is it to thoroughly wash the vehicle and wheels before using Iron-X to decontaminate?
 
First off, I have only used this on my wheels so far, but with outstanding results. It followed my Sonax FE. I used about 2/3's of the 500ml bottle on 3 of the wheels. Removed them to get back side thoroughly, but it started to rain hence only 3 of the 4. Ordered the 1 liter this morning, but I have to ask how much did you use on that car? I have got mine and my wifes car to do, so trying to figure out how much of this I will end up using.

BTW, forgot to mention I love this plus the TarX. I waited too long to order the TarX on bogo as it ran out of stock.
 
Nice video Avi! :props:

How important is it to thoroughly wash the vehicle and wheels before using Iron-X to decontaminate?
the truth.. its not that important to wash the car before, or to rinse it even... use the ironx before the whole procedure and it will work very well also.

Woohoo! Great video Avi
Thank you Corey , impressive no??

First off, I have only used this on my wheels so far, but with outstanding results. It followed my Sonax FE. I used about 2/3's of the 500ml bottle on 3 of the wheels. Removed them to get back side thoroughly, but it started to rain hence only 3 of the 4. Ordered the 1 liter this morning, but I have to ask how much did you use on that car? I have got mine and my wifes car to do, so trying to figure out how much of this I will end up using.

BTW, forgot to mention I love this plus the TarX. I waited too long to order the TarX on bogo as it ran out of stock.
you are using way to much!!! for average car you need 150~200ml maximum including wheels.. on each wheel 3 ~4 squirts are enough. each trigger squeeze is 1.5ml consumption.
if your wheels are very dirty , use cheap wheel cleaner first and keep the ironX for last step cleaning.
 
after spraying IX and letting it dwell a little is it important to actually wash/rub it in with a sponge? I thought I read this in some instructions . or is letting it dwell as u can obviously see its doing the work good enough ?
 
after spraying IX and letting it dwell a little is it important to actually wash/rub it in with a sponge? I thought I read this in some instructions . or is letting it dwell as u can obviously see its doing the work good enough ?
IronX is a pre wash step.. so washing the car after is always advised.
let it work /dwell for 5 min.. then rinse/wash it after.
 
IronX is a pre wash step.. so washing the car after is always advised.
let it work /dwell for 5 min.. then rinse/wash it after.

Iron X is a pre wash step even when the car is dirty? Just curious
 
if your wheels are very dirty , use cheap wheel cleaner first and keep the ironX for last step cleaning.

Sorry Avi...
But which cheap wheel cleaner do you recommend using that would be "safe" (not harm) the quite varied "wheel-types"?

Thanks.

:)

Bob
 
Nice video Avi! :props:

How important is it to thoroughly wash the vehicle and wheels before using Iron-X to decontaminate?



In all my classes, I now show thoroughly washing and rinsing the car first to remove any loose dirt and roadgrime off the paint.

Remove all the dirt and any film off the surface first and this will enable the Iron-X to more easily do it's job unhindered...


I think using Iron-X or any product like Iron-X should be included in any detail session as I think it's that important. When I update my first book and in any second book I will include and endorse tis procedure. It just makes good common sense.


Paperback




Thanks for sharing Avi and driving hope the point that you never know what's on or in the paint no matter how new or old the car.


:dblthumb2:
 
In all my classes, I now show thoroughly washing and rinsing the car first to remove any loose dirt and roadgrime off the paint.

Remove all the dirt and any film off the surface first and this will enable the Iron-X to more easily do it's job unhindered...


I think using Iron-X or any product like Iron-X should be included in any detail session as I think it's that important. When I update my first book and in any second book I will include and endorse tis procedure. It just makes good common sense.


Paperback




Thanks for sharing Avi and driving hope the point that you never know what's on or in the paint no matter how new or old the car.


:dblthumb2:

When's the updated book coming out? I want to order your book, but if a new one is coming I'll wait if it isn't too long :)
 
Iron X is a pre wash step even when the car is dirty? Just curious

I think he means, you MUST wash the car after Iron X to wash it off the paint, so if you are only going to wash it once, do the Iron X first.

But if you wash first, then Iron X, you must follow with another wash.
 
I think using Iron-X or any product like Iron-X should be included in any detail session as I think it's that important. When I update my first book and in any second book I will include and endorse tis procedure. It just makes good common sense.

Does that include decon systems like this Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System, auto paint cleaning system, de-contamination solution or the ABC system? Or are you only "endorsing" the more neutral products like Iron-X or the similar wheel products?
 
Iron X is a pre wash step even when the car is dirty? Just curious

If you just let it do it's thing and rinse it off then it can be a pre wash step. But I like to agitate it with a sponge and let it dwell a bit longer.

I see fresh bleeding on lighter cars when I do this. It also allows me to use a bit less product.

If you want to do this however, the car must be washed and dried prior, or you will be rubbing dirt around along with the iron X...

When using it on my car (winter prep), which is clayed regularly, I wash, clay while wet (I use onr lube which I then wipe off so the car is semi dry), then iron X, let dwell, agitate and let dwell again, then rinse.

Just don't let the iron X dry under the sun and you can let it dwell as long as you want.
 
If you just let it do it's thing and rinse it off then it can be a pre wash step. But I like to agitate it with a sponge and let it dwell a bit longer.

I see fresh bleeding on lighter cars when I do this. It also allows me to use a bit less product.

If you want to do this however, the car must be washed and dried prior, or you will be rubbing dirt around along with the iron X...

When using it on my car (winter prep), which is clayed regularly, I wash, clay while wet (I use onr lube which I then wipe off so the car is semi dry), then iron X, let dwell, agitate and let dwell again, then rinse.

Just don't let the iron X dry under the sun and you can let it dwell as long as you want.

It would be better to use Iron X before you clay since it can dissolve a certain amount of contamination and remove it, which will make your claying step easier and faster.

I think of it this way, like your skin, car paint is porous. Iron X will remove what is deep in the pores of the paint, then the clay will remove the rest of what is sitting on the top layer.
 
Does that include decon systems like this Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System, auto paint cleaning system, de-contamination solution or the ABC system? Or are you only "endorsing" the more neutral products like Iron-X or the similar wheel products?


In the spirit of keeping things simple, aka

KISS = Keep it Simple Simon


I like Iron-X because I don't think the majority of people new to detailing, or even seasoned and experienced detailers can make a mistake with it.

PLUS it's a single product. Wash the car first, get the dirt off, then use Iron-X and then rinse. Pretty simple.

The ABC system is more for experienced detailers and it's also a multiple step system. I'm all for anyone else writing a book and recommending and explaining how to use it in their book but as for me I plan on keeping it a lot more simple.

If AG starts carrying a similar product to Iron-X then I'll list both of them.


How's that?


:xyxthumbs:
 
I like Iron-X because I don't think the majority of people new to detailing, or even seasoned and experienced detailers can make a mistake with it.

PLUS it's a single product. Wash the car first, get the dirt off, then use Iron-X and then rinse. Pretty simple.

The ABC system is more for experienced detailers and it's also a multiple step system. I'm all for anyone else writing a book and recommending and explaining how to use it in their book but as for me I plan on keeping it a lot more simple.

C'mon Mike, I'm not writing a book. I've used the caustic/acid decon systems, and I've used the Iron-X-ish wheel cleaner (Sonax FE). I'm just trying to understand if you are advocating decon systems in general, or just Iron-X, and if just Iron-X, only because it's simpler/safer, or because it also works equally well?

I'm not trying to debate anything here, I just don't remember you advocating decon before, so I'm just trying to understand the rationale so going forward I can make an educated decision on whether to keep using the caustic/acid approach or switch to the Iron-X approach.

And FWIW I hardly ever do the caustic/acid decon BECAUSE it's not that simple/safe and it's a pain in the neck, and that's why I'm asking, not because I'm trying to hang you up.
 
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