Will M205 or SF4000 Remove CQuartz?

theblob640

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I know M205 and SF4000 will remove CQuartz if worked long enough. The question I have is will they remove CQuartz if let say I did just 2 passes with it?

Little bit of a background:
I went over to a buddies house today not knowing his sprinklers would turn on while I was there. When I got back into my car I noticed the hood had some water beading and water spots all over my window. I had a bad feeling about it, and when I got home to inspect, the hood, roof, windshield and pretty much all of the passenger side had water spots all over. I polished up and applied CQuartz 2 weeks ago so I was pretty pissed.

Back on topic:
So far I have tried a waterless wash, DG902, and distilled white vinegar with no luck removing them. I ended up using a yellow foam wax applicator pad (circle ones) with a little bit of M205 on it and hit a very small inconspicuous spot with light to medium pressure (more on the light side) and made a few passes vertically/horizontally (probably equivalent to about 1 pass, if that, on a machine). It worked effortlessly.

Looking forward to your guys' response.
Thanks in advance.

P.S. I did feel happy when I saw the water sitting on my hood just fly right off as soon as I hit 30+ mph. But it is still not enough to balance out the water spot debacle I have.
 
I know M205 and SF4000 will remove CQuartz if worked long enough. The question I have is will they remove CQuartz if let say I did just 2 passes with it?

Little bit of a background:
I went over to a buddies house today not knowing his sprinklers would turn on while I was there. When I got back into my car I noticed the hood had some water beading and water spots all over my window. I had a bad feeling about it, and when I got home to inspect, the hood, roof, windshield and pretty much all of the passenger side had water spots all over. I polished up and applied CQuartz 2 weeks ago so I was pretty pissed.

Back on topic:
So far I have tried a waterless wash, DG902, and distilled white vinegar with no luck removing them. I ended up using a yellow foam wax applicator pad (circle ones) with a little bit of M205 on it and hit a very small inconspicuous spot with light to medium pressure (more on the light side) and made a few passes vertically/horizontally (probably equivalent to about 1 pass, if that, on a machine). It worked effortlessly.

Looking forward to your guys' response.
Thanks in advance.

P.S. I did feel happy when I saw the water sitting on my hood just fly right off as soon as I hit 30+ mph. But it is still not enough to balance out the water spot debacle I have.

Have you tried machine applying a paint cleanser to see if the spots are removed?
 
Have you tried machine applying a paint cleanser to see if the spots are removed?

I have not tried that, simply because I do not have one. Thanks for the quick suggestion though!
 
Here are a couple of pictures:

Cleaned spot:
photo2.jpg


Water spots:
photo4.jpg


It is a lot worse than it looks.
 
Here are a couple of pictures:

Cleaned spot:
photo2.jpg


Water spots:
photo4.jpg


It is a lot worse than it looks.

Did this visit take place at night or did the water droplets get backed on in the sun? Either way, the silica in CQ is claimed to be as hard as diamonds so I'm doubtful that the spots are heavily etched in. I'm thinking a paint cleanser would be best suited to remove the water spots without compromising your coating of CQ.
 
Did this visit take place at night or did the water droplets get backed on in the sun? Either way, the silica in CQ is claimed to be as hard as diamonds so I'm doubtful that the spots are heavily etched in. I'm thinking a paint cleanser would be best suited to remove the water spots without compromising your coating of CQ.

This happened about about 6pm in the sun with temps at about 90+ in SoCal. I will have to dig through my samples to see if I have any. If not, other suggestions or answers to the question are welcome.
 
Yes both will remove the coating. Any polish will that has abrasives in it. I've easily polished off completely hardened CQ several times.

Most coatings are polished off long before their theoretical expiration dates due to the fact they get scratched and damaged and require correction (or maintenance polishing) as any clear coat would.

I tend therefore to ignore claims of longevity because coatings are usually polished off for one reason or another.

Having said that they are still worth it because they protect the clear coat better than non coating alternatives, and make washing and drying a breeze if they aren't topped or hindered in some way.
 
I'm guessing you don't have this, but maybe pick it up for the next time.

adajyqy2.jpg
 
Yes both will remove the coating. Any polish will that has abrasives in it. I've easily polished off completely hardened CQ several times.

Most coatings are polished off long before their theoretical expiration dates due to the fact they get scratched and damaged and require correction (or maintenance polishing) as any clear coat would.

I tend therefore to ignore claims of longevity because coatings are usually polished off for one reason or another.

Having said that they are still worth it because they protect the clear coat better than non coating alternatives, and make washing and drying a breeze if they aren't topped or hindered in some way.

Ok thanks, seems like I'll just have to re-coat the panels I polished.

I'm guessing you don't have this, but maybe pick it up for the next time.

adajyqy2.jpg

Unfortunately, I do not. I did place an order for it last night though. Thanks.
 
No need to re-polish or use any abrasion
use the Spotless and it will remove the water spots you have without hard buffing
even if time passed its still ok and will be removed without damaging the coat.
 
Thats why I am hesitant to back to coatings.

I have had the same experience as you in the past and all of your hard work (plus money) goes down the drain due to wicked water spots-it seems the coatings even lead to waterspotting more in my experience.

Your paint looks great too.

Your choices are to try a vinegar soak, a waterpot remover like Carpro Meguiars Marine or Duragloss, a chemical paint cleaner with no abrasives, then finally an abrasive polish.

Unfortunately in my case I had to step up to Meguiars 105 and do all of the work all over again.

Good luck-keep us posted.
 
No need to re-polish or use any abrasion
use the Spotless and it will remove the water spots you have without hard buffing
even if time passed its still ok and will be removed without damaging the coat.

Thank Avi for the response. I am hoping Spotless will work, I really do not want to take the time and re-polish it again seeing how much time I spent 2 weeks ago.

Thats why I am hesitant to back to coatings.

I have had the same experience as you in the past and all of your hard work (plus money) goes down the drain due to wicked water spots-it seems the coatings even lead to waterspotting more in my experience.

Your paint looks great too.

Your choices are to try a vinegar soak, a waterpot remover like Carpro Meguiars Marine or Duragloss, a chemical paint cleaner with no abrasives, then finally an abrasive polish.

Unfortunately in my case I had to step up to Meguiars 105 and do all of the work all over again.

Good luck-keep us posted.

Thank you. I already tried the vinegar soak but with no luck and like the Carpro Spotless product, I do not have the DG or Megs product on hand. I guess I'll just have to wait till this week when I receive CarPro Spotless in the mail and report back to you guys.
 
Also Avi, or anyone else that knows the answer, will Spotless hurt the coating in anyway? I am assuming I won't have to re-coat and the coating will still be intact, but just want to confirm.

Will this also work on my vinyl decals? Windows/trim I lucked out on. I gave it a wipe down with a QD and they disappeared. The water spots on my wheels surprisingly were easily wiped away too. Just paint and decals.
 
You probably should just sell the car. j/k Sounds l like you have some good suggestions. I've found there's not much this forum can't handle given a few days for everyone to chime in. Nice car!! I try not to abrade anything that sitting on top of the coating.
 
You probably should just sell the car. j/k Sounds l like you have some good suggestions. I've found there's not much this forum can't handle given a few days for everyone to chime in. Nice car!! I try not to abrade anything that sitting on top of the coating.

Haha, you're funny...this car isn't going anywhere! It is just that the wait is killing me to receive Spotless this week! It is kind of annoying too because I have a car show to go to in 2 weeks.
 
Yes both will remove the coating. Any polish will that has abrasives in it. I've easily polished off completely hardened CQ several times.

Most coatings are polished off long before their theoretical expiration dates due to the fact they get scratched and damaged and require correction (or maintenance polishing) as any clear coat would.

I tend therefore to ignore claims of longevity because coatings are usually polished off for one reason or another.

Having said that they are still worth it because they protect the clear coat better than non coating alternatives, and make washing and drying a breeze if they aren't topped or hindered in some way.


How easily will it remove it? I actually want to take off cquartz and reapply it, but wasn't sure how to determine if it's gone.
 
I know M205 and SF4000 will remove CQuartz if worked long enough. The question I have is will they remove CQuartz if let say I did just 2 passes with it?
Yes both will remove the coating. Any polish will that has abrasives in it. I've easily polished off completely hardened CQ several times.
How easily will it remove it? I actually want to take off cquartz and reapply it, but wasn't sure how to determine if it's gone.
Excellent question!!

How can a person really be assured that they have taken off just the entire film-layer-thickness (~0.5-2.0 microns) of a Coating-LSP that has also, according to the product's description: Bonded to/with a vehicle's paint system?

Has not the twain-materials:
Been married...now become as one?

A "clear-cut" divorce, then, may not be attainable, regardless how "buff", one of these materials allegedly claims it will be!

-Breaking out the EPTG may be one instrument that'll help
clear up the legality of this attempted un-coupling.
But can it ever be truly determined how/when that
a true-cleaving of these two materials has occurred?


Bob
 
Excellent question!!

How can a person really be assured that they have taken off just the entire film-layer-thickness (~0.5-2.0 microns) of a Coating-LSP that has also, according to the product's description: Bonded to/with a vehicle's paint system?

Has not the twain-materials:
Been married...now become as one?

A "clear-cut" divorce, then, may not be attainable, regardless how "buff", one of these materials allegedly claims it will be!

-Breaking out the EPTG may be one instrument that'll help
clear up the legality of this attempted un-coupling.
But can it ever be truly determined how/when that
a true-cleaving of these two materials has occurred?


Bob

One can surmise an educated guess by taking a baseline paint depth reading on each panel after correction / polishing and before applying the coating. This way one can have a pretty good idea of when most if not all of the coating had been removed in the future. :-)
 
One can surmise an educated guess by taking a baseline paint depth reading on each panel after correction / polishing and before applying the coating.
-Breaking out the EPTG may be one instrument that'll help...

OK...But would people do this even if they had an EPTG?


This way one can have a pretty good idea of when most if not all of the coating had been removed in the future. :-)
How much of a Coating does it take to bond to/with paint...meaning, for that matter: How many molecules deep does the bonding go into the paint?

Point being:
Going to be quite difficult to determine when all of a Coating has been removed, without some amount of the paint having to be removed along with it?

I thought that was one situation...
that a Coating was supposed to help us avoid!

How can a person really be assured that they have taken off just the entire film-layer-thickness (~0.5-2.0 microns) of a Coating-LSP that has also, according to the product's description: Bonded to/with a vehicle's paint system...


Bob
 
How easily will it remove it? I actually want to take off cquartz and reapply it, but wasn't sure how to determine if it's gone.

Why would you need to remove it all if you are topping with the same product. From my understanding, Cquartz is supposed to layer.
 
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