Window cleaning with UC

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lots2learn

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I have a 2001 Lexus that has mild water spots on the glass. This weekend I tried a test spot using UC and a terry cloth towel and it worked. I plan to do all the windows this coming weekend using the UC and Meguairs 4 inch pads with the PC DA. I was wondering which pad (yellow or black) should I use and what speed? Also, the moon roof window is tinted so am I getting ready to do something that I will regret because of the tinted window? Thanks.
 
Always start with the least agressive approach. If hand app removes them you may want to stick to that. If not try black first.
 
The black is not the appropriate pad for this. I would use the yellow or even the burgundy depending on how bad the spots are. If the moonroof is factory tint, don't worry about it, the tint is in the glass.

Now, that being said, there were some Lexi that had a weird coating on some of the windows for water sheeting, so you don't want to be compounding a window like that, unless the intent is to remove the coating.
 
I used a 4" Tangerine ht pad and UC on my windows just this morning and came out really well...not perfect but a HUGE improvement.I was very quick with it though.Sorry it wasn't a lexi.
 
lots2learn said:
I have a 2001 Lexus that has mild water spots on the glass.
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Old Tiger said:
Always start with the least agressive approach. If hand app removes them you may want to stick to that. If not try black first.
Click to expand...

Setec Astronomy said:
The black is not the appropriate pad for this.
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Ok, he did say mild...I still say that a finishing pad and a compound is not the right combo, and even though glass isn't glass anymore these days, he should be fine and safe with the yellow pad. Although I do agree that sticking with the hand app is going to have less splatter and dust...but I'm guessing the OP wouldn't be contemplating using a machine if he wanted to do hand app to all the windows...
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I will do the job by hand if I needed but I had to worked it pretty hard by hand. In fact, I was hoping that the DA would accomplish the task with less downward pressure. I'm almost certain that the window is factory but how would I know for certain? Also, what speed would you recommend?
 
Non-factory tint is a film applied to the inside of the glass...and since it's on the inside, you polishing water spots off the outside should not be an issue. Factory tint is a dye put in the glass itself, it's part of the glass.

What speed? A PCXP? Or original? I'd go about 4 either way...glass is pretty insensitive compared to paint. I know the driver's window and maybe the windshield had that goofy coating on some Lexi...I really don't remember what model, etc. It was to make the water sheet off for visibility instead of beading up into droplets...I remember some detailers having problems with it.
 
You can also try super fine steel wool for cleaning windows. Wash your windows first and let dry completely. Then take your steel wool and go over it by hand. Follow up with a towel to final buff. This will make the windows super smooth removing anything stuck to the window and leave a streak free shine!
 
Superior Shine said:
You can also try super fine steel wool for cleaning windows. Wash your windows first and let dry completely. Then take your steel wool and go over it by hand. Follow up with a towel to final buff. This will make the windows super smooth removing anything stuck to the window and leave a streak free shine!
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You guys do what you want, but I would NEVER do that today. Glass isn't glass anymore, it's some soft scratchable clear stuff, at least on the Asian cars. Wiper trails, ice scraper scratches--it's horrible.
 
I polish glass with m105 and a cyan HT pad using either the Flex 3401 or PCxp. Works great! I'm sure UC will do a great job as well. I agree with Setec, a cutting pad is a better choice than a finishing pad for this task...
 
Yes Tad, my wife's car thanks you for the tip! I did all the glass on her car this weekend.
 
I just did the glass on my Honda and it had really bad waterspots, I used DP Glass Restorer with orange CCS on a GG speed 4 and they came out very clean, no more spots.

Wish this thread came out before I bought the DP GR, I already had 105 and UC but I got the DP GR on the mix and match BOGO so I'm still happy with it.
 
I wanted to add since you guys are already working on the windows hard core, go ahead and work the insides. An AIO product like Klasse AIO will polish out deposits and help make the inside of the windows as clean as the outside, and will resist fingerprints and dirt.
 
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