Wolfgang Finishing Glaze

Scubadaddy

Scubadaddy

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I have a one year old car than has some slight blemishes.

1. A scratch on the rear that looks like a light key. Not deep.

2. A few light abrasions that can only be seen at certain angles in the sun. Not swirls, just micro scratches from washing.

3. Some weird scuff the size of a thumb. Hope to buff it out.

It is a daily driver, but I want to keep it well maintained.

Originally, I was thinking using the twins on the rear scratch. But since the rest of the car is nice, I don't need to do the rest.

Then, I thought just the finishing glaze with a finishing pad. Just to get the echings out.

Is this overkill using a finishing glaze to fix this? I want to keep my clear coat intact as much as possible.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!
 
I would say it is definitely not "overkill". WFG is a very fine cut polish. A test spot will answer your questions. I really like WFG and am pleased with the amount of gloss and correction it gives me on the soft paint of my daily driver. WFG coupled with a finishing or polishing pad will not remove very much clear at all, even on soft paint.

Welcome to AGO!
 
I don't profess to be the forum expert, but what you wish to do sounds perfectly fine to me.

I used that same concept on many of my own vehicles, to do the least amount that was needed to maintain a nice finish, and no more.

It took 15 years for me to finally take DA, and polishes like the WG Twins to my own 1997 Chevy Tahoe. That was about a month ago.

Never, had I taken any polish to paint, only claying, glazing, and waxing, or sealing.

Because I maintained the finish so well over the years, and used good protective waxes, and sealants, that paint has held up quite well considering the first 6 years it went through 6 Chicago winters, and the last 10 here in the desert southwest.

I think all will agree that one should take the least agressive approach with polishes, and compounds, and yes, it's perfectly fine if you need to use a slightly more agressive product to remove a greater degree of paint damage on certain areas of the vehicle.
Mark
 
I've heard a few remarks-comments about the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze here, and some confusion as to what this particular product actually is?

Some say it is not a glaze at all, but a fine finishing polish.

I've used it, and to me, it appeared to have properties of both a fine polish, and also a glaze, all rolled into one.
Mark
 
People say it doesn't "fill", I say different. I've seen it with my own two eyes.

I had a very light defect on my hood. I used WGFG. the defect was gone. Since it was so small and light, I didn't worry about IPA. But I did wipe it off completely and inspect from many angles using different lights.

First rain, defect came back.

So, it either fills, has glaze, or causes paint to swell. I know it for a fact, because I've seen it. Some have experienced this with other Menzerna polishes as well, and I think the theory is it causes the paint to swell.
 
It's a fine cut polish.


It works exceedingly well if the defects you're trying to remove are not too deep or the paint isn't as hard as stainless steel.


I used it this last Saturday on a 2012 Mercedes-Benz and it worked perfect.


You can't always go by the name of the product to know and identify what the product actually is and what it does. That's because there are no "Wax Police".

The label states it's a glaze but it is in fact a fine cut polish.


I cover this in my how-to book, link to my how-to book is in my Sig Line and I also have an article about it in my article list, the link to my article list is also in my Sig Line.


Here you go...


Words mean things... just ask any Lawyer...

Word Definitions - Compounds, Polishes, Glazes, Paint Cleaners and Waxes




:)
 
swanicyouth said:
So, it either fills, has glaze, or causes paint to swell. I know it for a fact, because I've seen it. Some have experienced this with other Menzerna polishes as well, and I think the theory is it causes the paint to swell.
Click to expand...

Really? I thought "we" in the forums concluded 6-7 years ago that some of the Menz polishes have some lubricating oils that are very tenacious and can fool you if you don't remove them completely. I mean, I think it was Todd Helme, when he started using what now is called SF4000 and SF4500, who made this discovery, and this would have been back before TID even got started.
 
What pad did you use Mike?

Sent from my Milestone X2 using AG Online
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Really? I thought "we" in the forums concluded 6-7 years ago that some of the Menz polishes have some lubricating oils that are very tenacious and can fool you if you don't remove them completely. I mean, I think it was Todd Helme, when he started using what now is called SF4000 and SF4500, who made this discovery, and this would have been back before TID even got started.
Click to expand...

Don't know, maybe I was fooled. Whatever the case, call it "glaze" or call it "oils", you have to be careful with this one, because it can hide defects and make you think you removed them.
 
swanicyouth said:
Don't know, maybe I was fooled. Whatever the case, call it "glaze" or call it "oils", you have to be careful with this one, because it can hide defects and make you think you removed them.
Click to expand...

Yet, it seems per manufacturer's claims, and some of the other folks here have said, you can go straight from WGTSR, to WGFG, to WGDGPS 3.0 with no issues, and no need to use an IPA Mix, or some other product like Carpro Eraser, etc?

Evidently then, there may only be a percentage of truth to this claim, and that to be safe as far as proper correction being done prior to the LSP being applied, and as well proper bonding of LSP itself, perhaps one should still do a final cleansing wipedown regardless of said claims, or hearsay?

As one thread, and one poster once touched upon, "I never recalled applying a finish to my vehicle, and came out the next morning finding my sealant-wax lying on the garage floor".

I reckon that's not what happens though. Without being able to bond, or in layman's terms "stick" to the paint, one applies it, and then simply wipes it right back off.

Thus, one is lavishly treating their wax towels only.
Mark
 
swanicyouth said:
Don't know, maybe I was fooled. Whatever the case, call it "glaze" or call it "oils", you have to be careful with this one, because it can hide defects and make you think you removed them.
Click to expand...

Now that I'm thinking about this, and I may not be remembering this quite right, but this is how the IPA wipedown practice got started. When Menz came out with their polishes for Ceramiclear finishes, everybody started using them, regardless of the finish. Some pro detailers got burned because they polished out defects only to have them return, and they accused Menz of using fillers and started saying a lot of bad things. IIRC it was Todd Helme who debunked the "filler" theory and concluded that the lubricating oils used with the harder abrasives for Ceramiclear were very difficult to remove, and hence the practice of IPA or APC wipedown started, and ultimately led to products like Eraser.
 
MarkD51 said:
Yet, it seems per manufacturer's claims, and some of the other folks here have said, you can go straight from WGTSR, to WGFG, to WGDGPS 3.0 with no issues, and no need to use an IPA Mix, or some other product like Carpro Eraser, etc?

Evidently then, there may only be a percentage of truth to this claim, and that to be safe as far as proper correction being done prior to the LSP being applied, and as well proper bonding of LSP itself, perhaps one should still do a final cleansing wipedown regardless of said claims, or hearsay?
Click to expand...

You can chemically strip it, if you feel the need to do so. I have when using Meznerna SF4000 to verify that I am indeed removing and not hiding the defects in my test section. I have not found any hiding. I can't measure whether or not the paint is swelling, but if it swells, I would assume it would at some point relax and the defect would reappear. I have not seen this happen on any of my vehicles.

As far as going from a polish straight to an LSP, this article by Mike Phillips has quite a lot of good information regarding the bonding process and when to remove all traces of the last product before finishing.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ble-immiscible-wax-paint-sealant-bonding.html
 
I used this for the first time this weekend on my wife's 2008 mercury sable. The paint is in very good shape, so it needed to be clayed which I did then WG finishing glaze. I topped with jet seal 109 and the collinite 845 I am very happy with the results and ease of use. Nice product I'm glad I have it in my bag of tricks.:buffing:
 
I just used the Optimum Finish Polish and loved it.
Doesn't have a lot of cut but it may be perfect for you.

Long work time.
Zero dusting
Produces a high gloss.
 
HateSwirls said:
I just used the Optimum Finish Polish and loved it.
Doesn't have a lot of cut but it may be perfect for you.

Long work time.
Zero dusting
Produces a high gloss.
Click to expand...

I thought about optimum finish, but I took the the plunge with WG uber compound total swirl remover and finishing glaze. The WG also no dusting decent work time and yes it popped. Can't wait to do my truck after this winter as well.:buffing:
 
tpr1634 said:
I thought about optimum finish, but I took the the plunge with WG uber compound total swirl remover and finishing glaze. The WG also no dusting decent work time and yes it popped. Can't wait to do my truck after this winter as well.:buffing:
Click to expand...

I did use my flex 3401 with lake country ccs grey pad, I did order the hybrid pads for flex use, see how they work.:buffing:
 
tpr1634 said:
I thought about optimum finish, but I took the the plunge with WG uber compound total swirl remover and finishing glaze. The WG also no dusting decent work time and yes it popped. Can't wait to do my truck after this winter as well.:buffing:
Click to expand...

I have the Wolfgang Uber Compound also, really finishes down nicely:dblthumb2:
 
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