Thanks Mike.
I was assuming that XMT 360 had the same characteristics as M205 as per the Autogeek compound comparison chart.
Is that fair or is it a different ball game since it's a cleaner/wax?
Charts are good for a starting reference point but I don't know... I don't use them...
Is that fair or is it a different ball game since it's a cleaner/wax?
Well it's a light cleaner/wax, M205 is a fine cut polish, I'd probably give the edge to M205 for defect removal all things being equal.
I also assumed that I could get more cut with an orange pad and a rotary, did I go wrong there as well?
Using a more aggressive tool and a more aggressive pad will increase the total aggressiveness of any liquid but if the paint you're trying to revive is hard and neglected it's probably the wrong product for the job.
I rarely use cleaner/waxes with a rotary buffer because you're going to leave holograms in the paint. You might not see them but from experience, they will show up down the road. IF you don't care about holograms, like you're using a cleaner/wax on a white boat that's an exception.
I had really good luck with this product removing medium oxidation off a neglected Toyota that sits outside all the time, in fact I saw it the other day ago and it is still looking good.
KISS Detail - Extreme Makeover - Toyota Highlander
Pinnacle XMT Series 360 is a one-step cleaner wax specifically for machine application and it does a great job of cleaning, polishing and leaving behind a coat of protection in one, easy step.
After machine application of the XMT 360 the gloss, shine and slickness have been restored.
The passenger side is still dull, lifeless and rough looking...
Removing oxidation is easier than removing swirls.
Oxidation is topical, it's dead paint on the surface. Swirls are below the surface, you need to remove paint to remove swirls.
Sounds like the wrong product for the job to me...
I actually like XMT 360 for when I need a light cleaner/wax, not for removing swirls unless they are very shallow. But for cleaning up dull paint in one-step using a DA Polisher it works for me.
If I want more cut from my cleaner/wax then definitely have to get something more aggressive like Megs D151 or M66
Still, if you use anything more than a polishing pad then the pad and abrasive together can leave micro-marring with a DA Polisher, part of this is the aggressive nature of the pad. If you use with a rotary then you risk leaving holograms, again, part of this is the aggressive nature of the cutting pad.
There's a trade-off for everything when it comes to polishing paint. For one steps I a proponent of using a Flex 3401 or a PC style tool and don't promise the moon to your customer.
