XMT 360 - Little to no correction ability

theparmachine

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I have been stocking up on this product with all of the XMT BOGO's and finally had the chance to use XMT 360 on a project this weekend. I hit it with the Flex and an orange pad. Then I went to the rotary with the same orange pad. I did not see much going on here. Very little correction and even less shine.

After about an hour of trying various spots I decided to throw in the towel and went to the Meg's microfiber system with fantastic results.

Maybe it was the car's paint (Lexus) but it did not appear particularly hard, however, I was getting little to no cut with the XMT 360. I might give it another try but I was not impressed at all.
 
I have tried the XMT 360 and I'll be honest...I'm not impressed by this product. My money would have been better spent on Megs cleaner wax, which is far superior IMO.
 
I have been stocking up on this product with all of the XMT BOGO's and finally had the chance to use XMT 360 on a project this weekend. I hit it with the Flex and an orange pad. Then I went to the rotary with the same orange pad. I did not see much going on here. Very little correction and even less shine.

After about an hour of trying various spots I decided to throw in the towel and went to the Meg's microfiber system with fantastic results.

Maybe it was the car's paint (Lexus) but it did not appear particularly hard, however, I was getting little to no cut with the XMT 360. I might give it another try but I was not impressed at all.

Pinnacle XMT 360 will remove clay-induced marring and light swirl marks. It is not anywhere near as abrasive as a traditional pure polish; it wasn't designed to be.

This product was designed for production detailers and car care enthusiasts who require a one-step product with a little more bite than a traditional (non-abrasive) cleaner wax/AIO. It does, however, provide pretty good correction ability on Honda/Acura paint (super soft).

Pinnacle XMT 360 is a detailer's dream come true for single-stage oxidized finishes because the abrasives and the cleaners remove the dull, faded paint to reveal healthy, shiny paint, while leaving a durable layer of protection behind.

Rebirth of a Daily Driver - Oxidized Corolla

BEFORE:

IMG_5481.JPG


IMG_5479.JPG



AFTER:

IMG_5536.JPG


IMG_5548.JPG


No AIO/cleaner wax on the market today will replace a traditional two step polishing system for paint correction. If you need something with a little more bite, Pinnacle XMT Series offers a complete line of pure polishes designed for one thing and one thing only - paint correction.

Pinnacle XMT Ultra Fine Swirl Remover #1

Pinnacle XMT Fine Swirl Remover #2

Pinnacle XMT Intermediate Swirl Remover #3

XMT Heavy Duty Swirl Remover #4 Polishing Compound
 
Nick: Your write up was one of the reasons that I was so excited to try out this product. Mike Phillips also has one on a Toyota as well.

I never considered the Meguiars product, I'll have to give that a try.

What's AutoGeek's return policy on chemicals. I have two bottles of this that I don't plan on using?
 
It has it's uses. I also was a bit let down by the correcting factor, compared to meg cleaner wax. But it is perfect on badly oxidized vehicles, that aren't getting a full correction. It works perfect for maintenance after the car has been corrected to keep it lookin good. I use it mainly for maintenance, 2-3 section passes and its good. I wouldnt get rid of it yet.
 
Just to note, XMT 360 is a "light" cleaner/wax.

You have,

Light
Medium
Heavy


The problem in the industry is there are no standards and most one-step cleaner/waxes are not rated by their manufacture or by anyone else.

Another example of a very popular "light" cleaner/wax is Klasse AIO, another example of a light cleaner/wax is Optimum GPS.

A medium cleaner/wax would be Meguiar's ColorX. A heavy cleaner/wax would be Meguiar's M50 Boat Cleaner/Wax.


Anyone reading this have a question about the strength or ability of a specific cleaner/wax start a thread and myself and/or someone else will be happy to try to help you out.

Remember, there's a purpose for each type of cleaner/wax. For example if you want to restore a neglected finish you'll get faster results from a heavy cleaner/wax.

If however you simply want to maintain the finish on a "Daily Driver" that's in good to excellent condition, then you want a light cleaner/wax.


I used XMT 360 on my truck over the weekend and also on my fiancé's Honda, both turned out really well. I have 1970 Oldsmobile 442 W30 coming up and I'm planning on using XMT 360 on it.

Oldsmobile_442_W30_001.jpg




Hope this helps...


:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks Mike.

I was assuming that XMT 360 had the same characteristics as M205 as per the Autogeek compound comparison chart. Is that fair or is it a different ball game since it's a cleaner/wax? I also assumed that I could get more cut with an orange pad and a rotary, did I go wrong there as well?
 
Thanks Mike.

I was assuming that XMT 360 had the same characteristics as M205 as per the Autogeek compound comparison chart.

Is that fair or is it a different ball game since it's a cleaner/wax?

Charts are good for a starting reference point but I don't know... I don't use them...

Is that fair or is it a different ball game since it's a cleaner/wax?

Well it's a light cleaner/wax, M205 is a fine cut polish, I'd probably give the edge to M205 for defect removal all things being equal.


I also assumed that I could get more cut with an orange pad and a rotary, did I go wrong there as well?


Using a more aggressive tool and a more aggressive pad will increase the total aggressiveness of any liquid but if the paint you're trying to revive is hard and neglected it's probably the wrong product for the job.

I rarely use cleaner/waxes with a rotary buffer because you're going to leave holograms in the paint. You might not see them but from experience, they will show up down the road. IF you don't care about holograms, like you're using a cleaner/wax on a white boat that's an exception.


I had really good luck with this product removing medium oxidation off a neglected Toyota that sits outside all the time, in fact I saw it the other day ago and it is still looking good.

KISS Detail - Extreme Makeover - Toyota Highlander


Pinnacle XMT Series 360 is a one-step cleaner wax specifically for machine application and it does a great job of cleaning, polishing and leaving behind a coat of protection in one, easy step.
1eoWhite002.jpg



After machine application of the XMT 360 the gloss, shine and slickness have been restored.
1eoWhite010.jpg



The passenger side is still dull, lifeless and rough looking...
1eoWhite011.jpg



1eoWhite029.jpg





Removing oxidation is easier than removing swirls.

Oxidation is topical, it's dead paint on the surface. Swirls are below the surface, you need to remove paint to remove swirls.

Sounds like the wrong product for the job to me...

I actually like XMT 360 for when I need a light cleaner/wax, not for removing swirls unless they are very shallow. But for cleaning up dull paint in one-step using a DA Polisher it works for me.

If I want more cut from my cleaner/wax then definitely have to get something more aggressive like Megs D151 or M66

Still, if you use anything more than a polishing pad then the pad and abrasive together can leave micro-marring with a DA Polisher, part of this is the aggressive nature of the pad. If you use with a rotary then you risk leaving holograms, again, part of this is the aggressive nature of the cutting pad.

There's a trade-off for everything when it comes to polishing paint. For one steps I a proponent of using a Flex 3401 or a PC style tool and don't promise the moon to your customer.


:)
 
...I am not a pro, but I have been polishing my cars with a rotary since I was 17 years old. I can't see using the DA again.


I guess I need to go to Mike Phillips classes because I have not had the same experience.

The rotary is ALWAYS MUCH FASTER and in my experience the maximum correction and gloss. I have not been able to do my car in less than 8 hours with the da versus 5-6 with a rotary.




:iagree:to your words in blue.
 
:iagree:to your words in blue.



You know, I was looking for the thread you borrowed the above quotes from just the other day ago and couldn't for the life of me remember where it was at. Now I found it....


Lots of good discussion here...


Why would anyone use a DA for paint correction??



The most important thing at the end of the day is for everyone to find a way that works for them...

Me? I don't like to risk leaving holograms in someone else's paint job and I also don't like taking the time nor working backwards to check or prove there are no holograms from only using a rotary buffer.

If it works for others... more power to them... one thing for sure... paint systems are different and what works on one paint system doesn't always work on a different paint system.

Paint system is my way of saying a car, or a truck or fill in the blank because vehicles are painted using a "Paint System" and paint systems change.



:xyxthumbs:
 
You know, I was looking for the thread you borrowed the above quotes from just the other day ago and couldn't for the life of me remember where it was at. Now I found it....


Lots of good discussion here...


Why would anyone use a DA for paint correction??

I do the same all the time.



Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
The most important thing at the end of the day is for everyone to find a way that works for them...

Me? I don't like to risk leaving holograms in someone else's paint job and I also don't like taking the time nor working backwards to check or prove there are no holograms from only using a rotary buffer.

If it works for others... more power to them... one thing for sure... paint systems are different and what works on one paint system doesn't always work on a different paint system.

Paint system is my way of saying a car, or a truck or fill in the blank because vehicles are painted using a "Paint System" and paint systems change.



:xyxthumbs:


I was just :poke:...;)

Some of my ways can be viewed as unorthodox, but I find a way to work through product issues and methodology - rather than blame the product.
That's the reason I came to AGO, to up my game, and I feel that I'm progressing well - thanks to the forum.
I posted last month that your classes are not in cards for me in the near future, but they will be in my future indeed.


Now, if you can just convince me that certain products are as safe as clay...not just faster...I'll just keep using clay until I take your class.
 
I realized quickly that the "cut" was very minimal, even with an orange pad but it works great for paint that has mild oxidation or just needs a bump in the shine department. I've been using the green ccs pads with 4-5 passes and have been more than satisfied. Smooths out the paint, amps up the shine and gives you 3 solid months of protection. Worth having around especially if you picked it up on bogo.
 
You know, I was looking for the thread you borrowed the above quotes from just the other day ago and couldn't for the life of me remember where it was at. Now I found it....


Lots of good discussion here...


Why would anyone use a DA for paint correction??



The most important thing at the end of the day is for everyone to find a way that works for them...

Me? I don't like to risk leaving holograms in someone else's paint job and I also don't like taking the time nor working backwards to check or prove there are no holograms from only using a rotary buffer.

If it works for others... more power to them... one thing for sure... paint systems are different and what works on one paint system doesn't always work on a different paint system.

Paint system is my way of saying a car, or a truck or fill in the blank because vehicles are painted using a "Paint System" and paint systems change.



:xyxthumbs:

Wow, I started that thread also.
 
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