Xmt swirl remover in steps??

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nesto

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I used the xmt swirl remover #2 and I was really happy with the results. The only thing now is that the deeper scratches are more visable. If i were to use XMT swirl remover #3 would I have to step down and use #2 then #1 and then the canuba? Like i said i used #2 then the carnuba and it looks good. I guess I'm just asking for furture jobs or maybe I'll do my car all over again, why not hahaha. Pease help!

Thanks.:xyxthumbs:
 
I am not real familiar with the XMT abrasive line but I would think they are just like any other line up. If you decide to go back and use the #3 you will need to at least step back down to the #2 to get the same look you have now minus the deeper scratches.

The #2 was designed to follow #3 to further refine and smooth the surface from the larger abrasives in #3. Think of sanding wood, the same principle applies with polishing paint. The finer the abrasive, the smoother the finish.
 
You will probably have to follow up the # 3 with a finer polish yes. The # 2 is a fine polish which is why you still have some swirls and scratches left. Some may be RIDS and would need wet sanding to get rid of them.

This chart gives you the aggressiveness of each product.
Autogeek Swirl Removers & Compounds Comparison Chart
 
Ok thank! Yeah I know it has some RIDS but im not really worried about those for now. But should i have used #1 before using the carnuba finishing glaze? Would that have made a better result?
 
nesto said:
Ok thank! Yeah I know it has some RIDS but im not really worried about those for now. But should i have used #1 before using the carnuba finishing glaze? Would that have made a better result?
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Most likely no. Since the #2 didn't get rid of all the deeper swirls and scratches you need to either bump up the cut of your pad or go to a higher cut polish.
 
I'm about to try similar steps on my car and I do have XMT 3,2 and 1. I have orange, white and gray pads.

Which pad have you used with your XMT #2 ? Orange or white ? If you used a white pad try an orange pad with XMT # 2 and see if it gets rid of the scratches. If not then try the XMT # 3 with a white pad, if not working try the orange pad and it should then do the trick.

From what I read it looks like you would be able to use # 3 and then directly # 1 prior to apply wax.

Let us know your results ! :buffing:
 
I used the orange pad and i even used a yellow pad, but i did the majority with the orange pad. I'm going to buy #3, use it then go to #2 and finish off with the xmt360 or klasse. I will also try the white pad. thanks.
 
if you use # 3 with an orange pad and work it until fully broken down I think it will look pretty good as is and a pass with XMT 360 with a white pad would take off any small marring left by # 3

I'm pretty sure # 2 would not be required. Let us know how it goes
 
Just to let you know I tried the XMT # 3 for the first time this weekend with an orange pad and it left quite some hazing on my black motorycle tank. I then used the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze with a gray pad and even that combination had enough cutting power to take out the hazing and the surface became like a mirror. That was done by hand with a polishin pal and 4" pads. So for sure XMT # 2 is not required in the process.

I believe the XMT 360 has pretty much the same cutting ability than the WG Finishing Glaze so either a white or black pad with XMT 360 should take out any hazing left by the XMT # 3.

I found that XMT # 3 is still quite safe and not very strong, it took me two applications to take out mild scratches in the clearcoat. Still, better safer and milder approach than taking out too much of clearcoat for nothing.

good luck
 
I have been using the XMT line since 2005 and at first used XMT 4 then 1 to remove hazing. In my experience to get results that I am pleased with after using an orange pad I follow with a white pad then finish with gray(black). All XMT products need to be worked to get optimal results out of them, especially the XMT 4 and 3. I would not use an orange pad below xmt3 as it will only create more hazing than need-be. I have even found that depending on the paint you are working on, once you start using XMT 2 & 1 using any pad with a cut to it will have you chasing micro marring/haze. Using a heavy cut pad with finishing polish is probably just going to create marring that makes you have to go back with the same polish and a lighter pad and not really remove any heavy defects. I have had great results with xmt4 and orange pads. You just have to break it down completely which will probably let you finish with #2 and a white pad or even a black pad depending on your paint. If #4 starts to dry out before it is broke down spritz the pad with pad conditioner or QD and finish it out in two more passes with lighter pressure. Same can go for #3. I just don't see the sense it trying to make a finishing polish cut with a pad that it is not intended for. Use the right tool for the right job and you will save time and be much more satisfied in the end. If you are going to go XMT 3, 2, 1, then LSP go orange, white, gray/black; you can even use a finessing pad with #1 if haze is very minimal. Doing this will give you much more substantial results. Anything scratches that are showing up easily in overhead lighting, that you aren't having to hunt for, probably won't be removed with #2 and a any level of cutting pad; #2 just doesn't have the abrasives to last long enough with a cutting pad to really give you results for swirl removal. I assume you are using a DA.?.. May I ask why you have heavy cutting pads and no cutting compound? Just wondering.:) Hope I was of help and not just ranting.
 
lexterminator said:
Just to let you know I tried the XMT # 3 for the first time this weekend with an orange pad and it left quite some hazing on my black motorycle tank. I then used the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze with a gray pad and even that combination had enough cutting power to take out the hazing and the surface became like a mirror. That was done by hand with a polishin pal and 4" pads. So for sure XMT # 2 is not required in the process.

I believe the XMT 360 has pretty much the same cutting ability than the WG Finishing Glaze so either a white or black pad with XMT 360 should take out any hazing left by the XMT # 3.

I found that XMT # 3 is still quite safe and not very strong, it took me two applications to take out mild scratches in the clearcoat. Still, better safer and milder approach than taking out too much of clearcoat for nothing.

good luck
Click to expand...

XMT360 is not on the same level of cut as WGFG. 360 is a clean/polish/sealant, i.e. all-in-one(AIO). 360 will remove some hazing/marring, but mostly very light swirls. It is meant to finish without requiring buffing so that should tell you it doesn't have the abrasives that require it to be worked long enough to match WGFG. You could try using a higher cut pad to try to make 360 match WGFG, but I feel that will have to you wasting time chasing pad combos, and you will probably end up being more satisfied with a true finishing polish like #2/#1.
Lexterm. were you using a DA at all with the XMT #3 of was all your work by hand with the Pal? XMT products can be used by hand, DA, or rotary, but they were designed for DA use.
 
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