Conserving Product (Sonax, Iron X, etc)?

C

CC268

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Messages
667
Reaction score
0
Sorry about all the posts - I am full of questions today.

I was just wondering if you guys have any tips or tricks that help conserve expensive products (expensive to me) such as Sonax and Iron X. I feel like I can easily use an entire bottle of Iron X on my truck (2014 F-150 Super Crew). Should I be using a special spray bottle that atomizes the product better and thus uses less? Or maybe I just spray too much product in general?
 
I only got 3/4 of my car done with an entire bottle of Ferrex and I was trying to be efficient. Hopefully someone has some tricks, but more than likely the trick is to buy in bulk because it 'takes what it takes' to get full coverage. And as you say the stuff is $$$$
 
Except for the wheels I almost consider Iron-X as a use once product. When the car is new or the first time you work on it. After getting rid of the rail dust I never had the little red spots come back. The five liter jug I bought has (so far) been plenty for the last three years.
 
Tip #1: The first time you use Ferrex/Iron-X (any in this category) on paint, you will be surprised at how much product you use. However, you will find that less is used in subsequent applications IF you keep to a good maintenance schedule. I revist decon every 12-24 months. I never had the success oldmodman has had with the "use once" on an Iron-X type product. I live about a mile from train track/station.

Tip #2: When applying Ferrex/Iron-X I keep some water on the vehicle (typically when I wash I don't dry). The water helps spread the product and provides a little bit of dilution at that.

Tip #3: After I apply product on a panel with light misting; I watch how the panel reacts. If I see color all over I will apply some more, let dwell etc... After a bit I use a lightly damp MF sponge and spread the product around. I believe this step saves a lot of product over time. I'll rinse/repeat depending on what I see happening.

Tip #4: Do buy gallon-size and catch the sales. This type of product has a long shelf life IMO.

Tip #5: If you are consistently re-waxing your vehicle every 4-12 mos then you can always skip a decon step. Decon steps to me are more important (to me) for sealants and coatings.
 
I tried the Iron X snow foam recently. Did my new car with it (about a month old) and my wife's minivan (about a year old) and I didn't get any purple spots at all. I washed the wheels by hand first and did use Sonax on them which did turn purple. I've never clayed either car. So, I was pretty surprised at this result. I guess the dealerships I bought them at did a good job of prepping the paint before delivery.
 
Unlike what some have suggested, i have taken a more frequent approach to Iron X after reading how Mike Phillips uses it often. While i use it more often i also use it sparingly after the initial heavy dose. After spraying it rather sparingly on the vehicle i then spray a couple of shots on a grout sponge and lightly work it more evenly over the panels. I also like mwoolfso's tips too.

My DD seems to pick up metallic bits and most noticeably on the rear valance and behind each wheel. I do iron x about every 4th to 6th wash and it always finds some purple reactions. Applied sparingly and then boosted a bit by whats on the sponge seems to limit the amount i use.
 
Best way to conserve decon products
such as Iron-X and Sonax is to either
use all, or part, of Finish Kare's 3-Step
Decontamination System as their
aide-de-camp, IMO.

{Example:
Step-3...(#118 Shampoo)...is da schnizzle!!}


Bob
 
I use the Iron X gel mostly on wheels. It spreads easier and I think less waste. Good idea to apply light and watch for reaction and smear around ( I usually spray a liquid version in the area for max coverage). I like the product and ease of use, but thhe cost is bit high to do every time I polish. Best application is on wheels and about every month seems to work. As I experiment I find way less iron contamination the more I protect the wheels, so same deal with paint. On the up side, the first time I used it I was absolutely amazed how much iron deposits were on my car.
 
I stopped using those products because I wasn't seeing any benefit (no color change) on multiple cars with 60k+ miles.

Wheels on the other hand get it from brake dust. Buying an iron removing wheel cleaner is cheaper.
 
Sure, use an atomising spray, use a sponge to agitate and spread the product after application...

But most of all use them when required.. not to a schedule.. eg iron x regularly likely not required how much iron is falling on your car in a month...

And finally accept thats the high running cost you signed up for when you bought a HUGE truck.... at least your fuel is cheap ;)

oh and finally source an equivalent product and buy bulk.. (i use Autosmart Red 7 5 l on wheels ) and Iron-x on my paint work less frequently...
 
I have a truck because I need a truck not because I wanted a truck...
 
So I Iron X'd my truck about a year ago...maybe I don't need to do it again
 
FUNX650 said:
Perform "The Baggie Test" (MP);
it is very forthright.


Bob
Click to expand...

Well...I will need to use my nanoskin mitt next time, but does that necesarilly mean I need to Iron X again?
 
I may be the wrong person to answer this thread.... Since I always over buy for projects, not want to end up short in the middle.

If you are doing this once a year does the $20.00 in excess product figure into the equation? I'm looking at doing the job properly, not "good enough".
 
Hey man I'm just a poor boy! You got a new corvette! ;p
 
CC268 said:
Well...I will need to use my nanoskin mitt next time,
Click to expand...
Unless you are going to perform:
"The Baggie Test" ("TBT")...
How do you know, for sure, that
you'll need to use your Alternative
Auto-Clay product next time?

CC268 said:
but does that necesarilly mean
I need to Iron X again?
Click to expand...
Before performing the claying step
of the overall paint decontamination
process ("TBT" determined), I consider
it a "Best Practice" to first use an
IronX-type decontamination product.



Bob
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top