Question about Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Coatings

Grifffx4

Grifffx4

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I see AG shows a “Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Coating” and then a 4oz bottle of “Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating”

What’s the difference? Says the “paint coating” is V2 so I’m guessing is a newer improved version maybe?

Or is the Surface coating a kind of jack of all coatings, and the Paint coating, paint only? If so, does that mean the paint coating is better when it comes to paint?


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You are spot on. The paint coating has a v2 and is supposed to be better and formulated specificity for paint. The all surface coating is more of a general all around for paint, glass, trim.

Having used both I didn’t see much difference. But I have never got the durability from these spray bottle coatings. I have had the best results with bottle/syringe versions.

 
Yep, you're right, and like Troy also says, one is paint specific, the other is more all purpose.

And although I don't think I had the V2 version, I bought the Diamond Paint Coating when it first hit the market, and I had similar findings, that it fell quite short in the longevity department, no better IMO than a Sealant, or good Wax.

It's very rare I find fault with any AGO product, but this was one I felt just couldn't play with the big boys.
 
Grifffx4 said:
So IYO what coating is best for black paint? My wife has a new black Explorer I wanna try a coating on.
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If the paint is pure black I would use CQUK. I have had it on my wife car for over 3 years.

If the paint is metallic I would look at CQ original. I had it on the same car for just over 2 years before I polished it off and went with CQUK when it came out. And honestly after the deacon the CQ was still going strong and didn’t need to come off.

I have used Gloss Coat and it is super easy to use. But it hasn’t been as nice as the CarPro stuff.
 
Grifffx4 said:
Yeah it’s pure black. Any water spot issues? I’ve been reading that coatings have issues with this.
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They absolutely can have water spot issues. The new version of CQUK is supposed to be better about that.

I found the key is to get a full coats on as thick as possible let the car “bake” in the sun and then top it with Reload waiting as long as possible. The baking in the sun is somewhere in the directions I have read and somewhat simulates the IR cure lamp that some pro coatings call for. I also let the coating cure as long as possible before getting it wet or topping it with Reload. For the first month or so I make sure and use Reload as a drying aid or a top up to help get the full cure on the coating.
 
The water spot issues, is this spots after washing or after rain? Kinda discouraging because I thought the whole point of coatings was not to have such an issue. And it seems the spots are not easily removed from what I read. Am I misunderstanding this issue?


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Grifffx4 said:
The water spot issues, is this spots after washing or after rain? Kinda discouraging because I thought the whole point of coatings was not to have such an issue. And it seems the spots are not easily removed from what I read. Am I misunderstanding this issue?
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I have not had any issues while washing as I make sure a thoroughly dry the vehicle.

The times I had had some water spotting was when I had a dusty car it rain and then the sun came out and baked the dirty water spots in place over a few days or a week.

The point of a coating IMO is to have a longer last more durable base layer of protection. Because of the tight beading water spotting is one thing that coatings are prone to. Try and look at a coating as a longer life sealant. I tend to call them a super sealant (at least in my mind).

If you regularly wash and maintain the vehicle you shouldn’t have any problems. But you can park under a sprinkler and expect nothing to happen. Using something like Reload even once a month will really help and also I have found it to really extend the life of the coating as it takes the daily abuse.

I have even use Opti car wax over coatings since it is so easy to use. But it does cover the coatings water and dirt shedding ability until it wears away.

 
So it’s basically my misunderstanding the “issue” some are having it sounds like. I understand that spots will happen especially in fine mist situations, opposite of a running hose when the water can collect together and run off. I was under the impression that the spotting was etching into the finish and you could only remove by correction. If it a simple quick detail spray and wipe that’s cool with me.


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Coatings are susceptible to water spots. In saying this I have not experienced any water spotting issues on any of the coatings I have used.

I used PBL V2 and I had no issues for close to 2 years. No water spotting and good performance. Keep in mind the environment it is exposed to dictates how long it will last.
 
Grifffx4 said:
So it’s basically my misunderstanding the “issue” some are having it sounds like. I understand that spots will happen especially in fine mist situations, opposite of a running hose when the water can collect together and run off. I was under the impression that the spotting was etching into the finish and you could only remove by correction. If it a simple quick detail spray and wipe that’s cool with me.
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I don’t think you are misunderstanding. But you have to also look at location and expectations of the people that have had issues as well. If you realize up front this is not a “force field” that will stop everything and it has its pros and cons just like a wax or sealant then you are halfway there.

I’m in Ohio so I done get the quick wind and rain storm then the 80-90+ searing heat and sun that would bake and etch in the spots so quickly. But if I was in the south and had to deal with that I would need to make sure I always had a good extra layer of protection on. You can still get some water marks but stuff like Spotless or even Essence Plus can help take care of it without polishing.

There are some that say you don’t or shouldn’t need a topper with a coating and at times I do agree. But we use these toppers just like we did with a wax over a sealant. It just adds a quick layer of protection to maintain the look. Heck some of the spray sealants and waxes are getting so good I wonder if we really need a coating...
 
Grifffx4 said:
So it’s basically my misunderstanding the “issue” some are having it sounds like. I understand that spots will happen especially in fine mist situations, opposite of a running hose when the water can collect together and run off. I was under the impression that the spotting was etching into the finish and you could only remove by correction. If it a simple quick detail spray and wipe that’s cool with me.


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Etching happens when left for to long and the minerals in the water eat through the clear, there is no set time this happens and varies by clear coat and what's in the water drop.

I'm this pic the water spots have been on this car for about 6 months and I didn't need to polish to remove them.

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I tried Carpro Spotless for the 1st time today...

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It didn’t work a lick.
 
In this case I soaked the panel down with carpro spotless and then used a cheap China wax pad. I call it "acid polishing" works really well.
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Cruzscarwash said:
In this case I soaked the panel down with carpro spotless and then used a cheap China wax pad. I call it "acid polishing" works really well.
8ea81608cf19b0e26cd34338f8d4d573.jpg
8e5a2b64dacde7c3a34b000be342841a.jpg


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What about that handle? It looks horrible! Lol j/k Damn!
 
Eldorado2k said:
You’re trippin... It’s acidic, won’t it destroy the clay towel?
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I've never used a towel so I'm not sure but it might. I've done it with normal clay and clay DA pads and they don't destroy them. Now regular pads it eats them from the inside out which is why I only use cheap China ones. In the end it makes quick work of the waterspots.

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Cruzscarwash said:
I've never used a towel so I'm not sure but it might. I've done it with normal clay and clay DA pads and they don't destroy them. Now regular pads it eats them from the inside out which is why I only use cheap China ones. In the end it makes quick work of the waterspots.

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Intresting findings with the use of Spotless! And the results looks incredible. Renny Doyle uses a clay pad and Sonax Glass cleaner when claying. To get a really effective chemical decon at the same time. I'm going test that out. And will certainly keep your method in mind when I stumble on water spots. Thanks for shareing your findings.
 
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