DFB's Garage

Klasse Act said:
Deyon, I'm surprised the IronX has ANY work to do, LOL️Those extra steps are what people like us LOVE to do, I always go overboard when prepping because THAT is the time to use everything and make it right

Looking forward to the rest of the write-up

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Yeah, I rarely see much iron reaction on my cars, I guess I just do it anyway to be thorough.
 
HELL of job done Deyon!
Looking super glossy.:pc7424::buffing::drool:
 
It’s come along nicely. If you got dust with q2 primer that means it was over worked. Had that happen the first time I used it.
 
Holiday Project One - Ceramic Coating the Jag Part 2

Up early this morning to get a start on the coating before it got too hot. With the bulk of the hard work done, all that I needed to do was to wipe the car down with Gyeon Prep before getting on with the whole point of this project.

In the past, I have been happy using waxes and sealants on my cars, the usage patterns and care they receive means that longevity is not an issue. But I have wanted to try a ceramic coating for a while now, so this represents a change in direction for me. Not to mention the chance to learn a new skill.

So what coating? I looked at Carpro, Gtechniq and NV coating's before landing on the new EVO range from Gyeon. Because I'm a classic overthinker, the key requirement I wanted was something that was going to be forgiving to work with, the EVO coatings seemed to have focused on that aspect in particular. I was tossing up between Mohs EVO or Pure EVO, the former getting the gong because of the "depth and pure candy gloss" qualities. Pure EVO also has a longer working time and more forgiving overall than Mohs.





Gyeon Pure EVO comes in two different bottle sizes, 30ml and 50ml, the 30ml will easily do a car like this. Pure EVO is also a single layer coating with up to 3 years longevity with correct care. The kit comes with the coating and an applicator, along with installation and care instructions. With the huge catalog of Youtube videos available to watch, the instructions are largely useless anyway.

Such was my concentration, I sort of got in the zone during this process and didn't focus on pics, so they won't be as prominent as usual.

The first step is to shake the bottle and then prime the applicator with a generous amount of product. It's good practice to put the cap back on the bottle between applications.

There are different methods of laying down a coating, I put down a "draw line" down the middle of the panel and then followed with the usual crisscross pattern. The draw line allows you to pick up the coating and distribute it more evenly as you work across the panel. Pure EVO is also a thick, sticky coating to work, I'm guessing this is to make it very obvious where it's been applied.





One of Pure EVO's drawcards is the super long working time, up to 10 minutes in the right conditions. The warm temps today sped that up a little for me, hence starting early. That said, Pure EVO will bond instantly to the paint and can be removed before the 10min.

Removal is via two low-pile towels, one for the initial wipe to level down the coating, followed by a second towel as a final buff. In my case, I had blue towels for the first wipes, green for the second to help me remember which was which. Using a diffused light will help pick up any high spots.





And that's where the pics stop on the coating process. I started on the boot lid and adjoining rear quarter panels. I then did the roof, hood and front quarter panels, followed by the doors and mirrors, finishing with the bumpers, lights and lower sills. Overall, Pure EVO was very easy to work with.

I chose not to coat the glass with Pure EVO, opting for Gyeon Quick View Instead. In a technical sense, Pure EVO would be fine on glass and probably outlive Quick View, but I have found Quick View to very good, especially on garage queens. Having said that, it's been doing stellar work on my daily Ranger.



What I love about Quick View is the simple installation. Having the glass back to the bare bones after claying and polishing yesterday, all that was needed was a quick wipe with Prep. The major drawcard for Quick View is the integrated felt applicator, except mine is welded shut by the cap! So, I just remove the secondary lid and squeeze the product onto a microfiber applicator pad. Quick View is applied to all the exterior glass in one shot, left to sit for 15 - 20 min and then buffed clean with a damp towel. I then follow up with glass cleaner and two towels to deliver a streak free finish. The glass cleaner doesn't remove the coating by the way.

After the exterior glass was in shape, I had to go through and clean the interior glass as it was letting the side down. If you think the back glass of a Mustang is hard to clean, a Jaguar XE sedan is not much easier..........hence it being a touch neglected.

Having removed the number plates, they needed some attention too. I cleaned the plate and plate protector in the sink with APC, dried and then, yes I know I know :doh:, polished those too with the Nano in rotary mode and Rupes yellow compound.



I then followed up by coating both pieces with Gyeon Cure. It's amazing what a difference this made to how they looked on the car. So, jokes aside, certainly worth doing. It's called "detailing" for a reason you know! :xyxthumbs:



Next, the door sills. The XE has massive inset door sills that tend to get hacked up quite easily. The Nano in rotary mode again, this time with Sonax Perfect Finish. I then coated these areas in Cure as well. Again, a job worth doing due to the big difference this step brought to the table.





The next steps focused on the interior. After a vacuum, I decided to apply some 303 Fabric Guard to the floor mats.



It was then onto the leather. Having such light coloured leather requires diligent maintenance. Even so, it didn't need much so I settled on the Mild Leather Cleaner from ColourLock, teamed with their leather brush and an interior towel to wipe away the residue.



Once all seats, door trims, center console and steering wheel were clean, I followed up with ColourLock Leather Protector, applied with one of their applicator sponges.



The key reason why I like ColourLock leather products is the natural, matte sheen they leave behind, especially on a lighter colour like the Light Oyster seats shown here.

Final step on the interior was a wipe down with Auto Finesse Spritz.



Returning to the exterior, I dressed the tires and then gave the engine bay a wipe over with ONR and followed up with Meguiar's Hyper Dressing. Don't be fooled by the Jaguar logo, a Ford EcoBoost is hiding under there.







I bloody love this interior! In all black, these cars look a little plain in terms of interior presentation. But with the two-tone treatment, it looks a million dollars in my opinion!



And that concludes this project. Apologies that I don't have any nice glamor shots just yet, it's cold-drink-o'clock and I'm buggered! :sleep









Overall, I'm happy with the result. Important to note that Pure EVO is not a "slick" coating, however it makes up for that with it's candy gloss appearance, chemical resistance and extreme water repellency. I can't wait to wash it now! :D

Special thanks to those who gave advice regarding this project, much appreciated. :dblthumb2:
 
The Guz said:
It’s come along nicely. If you got dust with q2 primer that means it was over worked. Had that happen the first time I used it.
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The dusting only happened a couple of times until I remembered reading about it happening after being overworked.

Thanks for your advice via PM too, much appreciated. Love this forum!
 
Glammer shots..............









 
The cleanest Jag in Shep if not Victoria did a amazing job Deyon looks better than factory
 
Beautiful car, and an amazing job!! I enjoyed the read.

Not to take anything away from the rest of your fleet but this is my favorite of your collection.

I agree with you on the interior two tone color. It looks so damnn luxurious!

Cant wait to hear your thoughts and see the pics of first wash in a couple weeks.

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Turned out gorgeous. The colour looks great with all that gloss.
 
Holiday Project Two - Cleaning An Old Chainsaw

This project has also been on the cards for a while too after I was given this saw by a Neighbour recently. This saw has a somewhat emotional attachment, we once went firewood collecting with this Neighbour's husband, this saw was the workhorse and I looked at it with lustful eyes.

After he died, the saw was taken out of its locked cabinet and left hanging on a hook in the open garage. Due to a spate of crime in the street recently, I mentioned it would probably be a good idea to put the saw in a safer place. She then offered it to me, mentioning that it was not something she could ever use. Not wanting the thing stolen or given to someone who wouldn't give it a second chance like I would had me nodding instantly. Not that I needed another chainsaw, having three already including a brand-new MS 271, a refurbished 009L and a battery powered MSA 140C.

From what I can gather, this Stihl 028 AV Super was made in the late 80's, so almost as old as I am. The AV designation stands for Anti-Vibration, Super is in reference to the larger 51.5cc engine this model has over the regular 47cc 028. It has not run in many years; the fuel lines are perished and overall, it's absolutely filthy. Smells bad too.

The plan was to clean it as much as I possibly could, allowing either me or the local Stihl dealer to sort out the mechanical problems. For context, this is what I was starting with..........



I'm sure it comes as no surprise that I had planned this all out in advance, having a generous supply of cleaning chemicals and solvents, parts trays and drop sheets all ready to go.



I also decided to try out a product I bought with no particular use in mind, Bilt Hamber Surfex.............see, there is a small link to car detailing.



Bilt Hmaber Surfex is a water based heavy duty all-purpose-cleaner and degreaser. It's extremely concentrated and can be diluted right down to 0.5% or used at 100% for heavy duty applications. In my case, I cut it at 1:1 in an old spray bottle, it's ability here was stunning, more on that later.

Despite there being 35+ years difference between my new MS 271 and this 028, it's amazing how similar they are in overall layout. These are very simple to strip down, in this case I started by removing the sprocket cover, bar and chain. The bar and chain will be replaced, but I washed them anyway.

Removal of the orange top covers, the recoil, chain brake, handle and finally the outer muffler cover followed. Each set of components had it's own tray, keeping everything organized. As each part was removed, I soaked them down with Surfex and left till later.







The muffler is a two-piece design, the drilled outer cover was removed and cleaned with Surfex and a wire brush. Surprisingly, the removable spark arrestor screen was clean and clear.





This is as far as I stripped it down. I could have gone further in removing the dogs, the primary section of the muffler, the flywheel and clutch cover but felt this was enough.



I then started working through each parts tray, starting with the handle which I cleaned, wiped with IPA and then touched up some of the black paint that had long worn away.



Each set of components were further doused with Surfex, scrubbed with an old detailing brush and rinsed with the hose. As mentioned earlier, the Surfex worked wonders here, dissolving most of the dirt, oil and sawdust with ease. If you do stuff like this yourself, using Surfex is certainly a nicer thing to use compared to more harsh solvents.



Having said that, some parts needed more persuasion with degreaser and some scraping. The recoil cover was the worst, the myriad of vent holes all caked in oil and dirt which necessitated several rounds of degreaser, agitation and rinsing to get presentable. I also needed compressed air here too.

Finally, the part I was dreading, the body of the saw.



There is no other way of putting it, but this was not a pleasant job. I had oil, dirt and grease all over myself. I used compressed air to blast away as much as I could, followed by several rounds of Surfex, brushing and rinsing. I then used compressed air to blast away as much water and any remaining chunks of gunk.

Back on my fabulous work bench, the tray of my Ranger, ready for a final wipe over and reassembly. Granted, some of this will be removed again when the mechanical work starts, at least it will be more pleasant to work on being clean.



Before we get to the finished result, this is how it looked in my Neighbours garage a couple of months ago...............







And now the results................













I have decided to leave the mechanical work to the local Stihl dealer. The carby will need rebuilding and the fuel system overhauled, the fuel lines crumbled as I cleaned the air box. It needs a new air cleaner as the material has broken down. I also want them to check the oiling system and will have them supply and install a new spark plug, bar and chain. The old, mangled bar cover went straight in the bin, I have a brand-new replacement waiting for it.

So, a departure from usual proceedings in here, although still along the lines of taking something and making it look better. I'm super happy with how it came up, certainly well used but a complete transformation compared to what I started with. A brand-new bar will make a big difference too.
 
opie said:
Beautiful car, and an amazing job!! I enjoyed the read.

Not to take anything away from the rest of your fleet but this is my favorite of your collection.

I agree with you on the interior two tone color. It looks so damnn luxurious!

Cant wait to hear your thoughts and see the pics of first wash in a couple weeks.

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This XE was built in mid 2015 and sold to us in mid 2016. I originally wanted Firenze Red with the Light Oyster interior, but the dealer offered us this Odessey Red example at a heavy discount, especially considering how many big-ticket options it had. I suspect this car was ordered for dealer stock but sat unsold because of the color and trim combo, most prestige cars are black on black, silver on black, grey on black, white on black. Having such a unique color and trim combination certainly gives it a point of difference, to the point where this car gets more attention on the road than my fire-engine-red Mustang.

There is only one thing I would change on this car, the engine. The 200hp 2.0 Ecoboost certainly has plenty of torque and combined with the light aluminum body, is respectably swift. But the chassis is just so capable that I really do wish ours had the 340hp 3.0 supercharged V6 offered further up the range.

My sister had a F-Pace for a while, the SUV version of the XE and XF sedans, so they share interior designs. Hers had all black interior, it was very dull in comparison.



This is another earlier XE with all black interior, again, it lacks the color contrast to make the cabin pop.



I love Jag's, sadly I suspect the brand's days are numbered. I can see a day where Tata close down the Jaguar brand, while continuing the more popular Landrover/Range Rover brand. Such a shame, the current range of Jaguar's drive so well, to the point where I believe they drive better than the equivalent BMW's which have traded certain chassis and engine traits in the pursuit a wider audience.
 
Klasse Act said:
Deyon...congrats!

Did you apply the sticker that came with the kit?

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The kit comes with "GYEONIZED" and "Date Applied" stickers, neither I bothered with.
 
The Guz said:
You did a great job for your first time.
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Thanks, that means a lot coming from you. :dblthumb2:

Thanks for the help along the way. :dblthumb2:
 
PLEASEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE Ceramic coat the chainsaw once done! Im the MAN
 
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