What polish to use before Powerlock?

A

AZpolisher15

New member
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Messages
1,419
Reaction score
0
Im looking for a polish to use with my new GG6 in preparation for an application of Menzerna Powerlock. I was going to use the Menz 3500 (old 4000) that I recently purchased, but the more I read, the more I'm thinking I should maybe use something a little more "new-guy friendly". I'm also wondering if I should stick to something that is SMAT rather than diminishing?

Any recommendations for me? I'd like to try something other than UP (I used UP last fall and didn't like the way that it darkened my paint). I'm really anxious to get the Powerlock applied but I'd really like to do some light swirl removal first. I'm not looking for total/perfect correction. Just want to clean it up for the Powerlock. Thanks much!

(i also bought car pro eraser for polish removal before the PL if I need it)
 
You will be fine with 3500.HD polish is also a top notch polish too. Just use an Erase like product before you apply the PowerLock.
 
The Griots Garage BOSS Creams are really nice if you want to try something different.

BOSS Correcting Cream or BOSS Perfecting Cream would likely meet your needs.

Reasonably priced, long working time, pleasant smell, and extremely user friendly all add up to some great products. Oh and the results are great too!
 
My choice would be M205. It's the most user friendly polish I've ever used..
If you'd like a bit more cut or cleaning ability, Meguiars Ultimate Compound shouldn't be overlooked, not to mention it's also extremely easy to use.

It did the opposite of "darkening" when I used it on this white paint. You can see how much cleaner and brighter it left the bottom right section after just 1 quik application with a DA.

View attachment 47376

View attachment 47377

Megs D300 also works great, not only on microfiber pads, but on foam pads as well. Very user friendly stuff and virtually zero dust.
 
A good Finishing Polish or any of the polishes mentioned. Its all gonna come down to preference :-)

Also don't forget to clean your pad often when polishing. I like "Scotch-Brite Pot Pan and Dish Brush." I believe its about $3 at your local big box store.
 
HD Polish+ is a great product for beginners--very user friendly--long working time, little to no dust, removes easily, doesn't leave any oils behind, a little goes a long way and just an ONR wipe down is all you need before applying your LSP.
 
Eldorado2k said:
My choice would be M205. It's the most user friendly polish I've ever used..
If you'd like a bit more cut or cleaning ability, Meguiars Ultimate Compound shouldn't be overlooked, not to mention it's also extremely easy to use.

It did the opposite of "darkening" when I used it on this white paint. You can see how much cleaner and brighter it left the bottom right section after just 1 quik application with a DA.

View attachment 47376

View attachment 47377

Megs D300 also works great, not only on microfiber pads, but on foam pads as well. Very user friendly stuff and virtually zero dust.
Click to expand...
Try using M205 on soft black paint. If you're not Kevin Brown or another highly skilled user, it won't finish very well. On harder paint, it will finish better.
 
SF4000 is user friendly just use what you have, doing a test spot for yourself is real life experience and better than anything you read on the internet.
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
Try using M205 on soft black paint. If you're not Kevin Brown or another highly skilled user, it won't finish very well. On harder paint, it will finish better.
Click to expand...

Oh yea, that reminds me of the Kia.. That's the only paint that failed to finish down with M205. Essence messed it up as well. I was under the impression it's hard paint, based on Zubairs theory.
All I know is I kinda hate the fact that I can't seem to take a polisher to it without scratching it up. Super lame.
 
Zubair said:
SF4000 is user friendly just use what you have, doing a test spot for yourself is real life experience and better than anything you read on the internet.
Click to expand...

Agree. You've got a good polish already, just get 'er done!
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
Try using M205 on soft black paint. If you're not Kevin Brown or another highly skilled user, it won't finish very well. On harder paint, it will finish better.
Click to expand...

Eldorado2k said:
Oh yea, that reminds me of the Kia.. That's the only paint that failed to finish down with M205. Essence messed it up as well. I was under the impression it's hard paint, based on Zubairs theory.
All I know is I kinda hate the fact that I can't seem to take a polisher to it without scratching it up. Super lame.
Click to expand...

m205 plays funny with all the Toyots paint in our house, works just about perfect on every other car i use it on though.
 
Wow- thanks to all of you for the tips/suggestions. The HD polish is on my short list. I guess now I'm leaning toward trying out what I have (Menz 3500). You're right- I do have a good polish in my hands. I guess I should give it a go and at least try to see if I can "make it work"! I'll try to document it, get some pics, and get up a review.

Yeah, my Toyota "pyrite mica" paint is really sensitive as far as color changing goes with LSP's. I usually like the carnuba look on most vehicles, but on my paint I much prefer the candy/glossy sealant pop. The UP, Collinites, Megs Carnuba plus and others really darken it and it draws your eyes to all the black plastic trim, which I don't like. With a candy gloss, the trim doesn't stand out as much (DG111 now and it looks great).

Looking forward to shaping it up a bit. Thanks again for your insight.
 
Harpolith said:
Wow- thanks to all of you for the tips/suggestions. The HD polish is on my short list. I guess now I'm leaning toward trying out what I have (Menz 3500). You're right- I do have a good polish in my hands. I guess I should give it a go and at least try to see if I can "make it work"! I'll try to document it, get some pics, and get up a review.

Yeah, my Toyota "pyrite mica" paint is really sensitive as far as color changing goes with LSP's. I usually like the carnuba look on most vehicles, but on my paint I much prefer the candy/glossy sealant pop. The UP, Collinites, Megs Carnuba plus and others really darken it and it draws your eyes to all the black plastic trim, which I don't like. With a candy gloss, the trim doesn't stand out as much (DG111 now and it looks great).

Looking forward to shaping it up a bit. Thanks again for your insight.
Click to expand...

You have a GREAT polish. Just make sure to get all the polishing residue off before applying dg111. Or use 101 before hand.

I was wondering why I was getting better performance from 101 on cars that I didn't ipa wipe before 111 application. Specifically cars I final polished with SF4000. 111 has no significant cleaning ability, at least not enough to power through what Menzerna polishes leave behind. 101 does though.
 
^^ I appreciate the heads up. While I'm really liking the DG 111, I'm gonna give the Powerlock a try. Hard to imagine I'll like it better than the 111, because the 111 impressed me that much. So, I don't need to do any chemical cleaning after the Menz polish do I (before the PL)? I thought that brand compatibility might eliminate that step?
 
I've done lots of cars with FG400, SF4000, then PL. SF4000 has very little cut, but is an awesome finishing polish. As was stated above, make sure you do Eraser or IPA wipedown before sealant.
 
Harpolith said:
^^ I appreciate the heads up. While I'm really liking the DG 111, I'm gonna give the Powerlock a try. Hard to imagine I'll like it better than the 111, because the 111 impressed me that much. So, I don't need to do any chemical cleaning after the Menz polish do I (before the PL)? I thought that brand compatibility might eliminate that step?
Click to expand...

That I'm not sure about. That's actually a good question.
 
mcate said:
I've done lots of cars with FG400, SF4000, then PL. SF4000 has very little cut, but is an awesome finishing polish. As was stated above, make sure you do Eraser or IPA wipedown before sealant.
Click to expand...

After I purchased the Eraser, I read that Eraser is intended as a prep for CQuartz. As part of its make up it does contain some surfactants (something like 3%, if I remember correctly from another thread), which obviously doesn't interfere with CQuartz adhesion.

I bought the eraser without doing much research- I just heard it was excellent for removal of any old products before application of a new product. What I hadn't considered is that perhaps it might not be compatible with other brands of LSP's. Can anyone shed light on this? Has anyone used Eraser before Powerlock application, specifically?
 
Eraser before Powerlock is fine. It's just an IPA mix with a little extra cleaner added. The obsession with totally clean bare paint is only really necessary before applying a nano coating. You'll be fine using it when using polymer sealants. I only use Eraser or my own home made version of it between polishing steps.

If you really worried about it, I use a panel wipe like Kleen Strip PrepAll (about $15 a gallon at CARQUEST) when polishing is all completed just before the LSP is applied.
You know its clean then.
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
Try using M205 on soft black paint. If you're not Kevin Brown or another highly skilled user, it won't finish very well. On harder paint, it will finish better.
Click to expand...
Noting the comment, the location and post count...I'd say Mark changed his username once again...that is...if I was a bettin' man. LOL! I haven't been on here in months either. Mark, that must be you...for sure. If so, what would you be using on that soft paint?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top