Advice needed for coating wheels

Desertnate

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This past weekend I sat down and a set of new wheels prior to them being mounted this week. Going off the advice from a thread I started last week, I used the Cquartz sample I had on hand. While everything turned out OK, the experience left me with questions regarding the application process.

What type of applicator is everyone using? Wheels are more intricate than modern cars and the nice foam rubber block you wrap the suede cloths around are just too big and the wrong shape. I found a very firm, yet cheap, wash sponge at a big box store and cut it up to create my own applicator. This solved the size/shape problem, but even though I wrapped it with the suede squares, I think it absorbed far too much product.

On dark-ish satin wheels, how can you tell when the product flashes? The age of the product might be part of the problem (my sample was a year old), but in a 73*F air conditioned environment, the product seemed to start drying almost immediately after application. On shiny car paint the process is pretty straight forward and I've been able to watch it happen. Satin gun metal wheels? Whole different story... Since I couldn't make out high spots and it appeared to be drying really quickly, I simply ran my MF towel VERY lightly over the surfaces a minute or two after application just to cover all bases.

One positive lesson I learned from this experience: MF suede cloths are great for applying coatings. When applying the McKee's 37 coating in the past, I used the LC coating applicator. While it's good, I noticed it makes the coating look almost like it was brushed on while spreading and then the product self-levels to a smooth surface. With the suede cloths, the product goes on much smoother and leaves no spreading marks at all.

Once again, thanks in advance for any insight provided.
 
Airbrush is ideal for wheels. Saves a ton of time and makes even application in intricate areas a breeze. They can be had for cheap at Harbor Freight.

If you don't want to mess with spraying, then simply wrapping a microfiber suede cloth around your (gloved) finger can be a simple and effective way to get into tighter areas by hand.
 
I'm no expert at coating wheels, but it might've been a good idea to coat them after the tires are mounted. They're sure to make a nice little mess when they mount the tires, possibly abrading away some of the coating.
 
I actually coated a set of brand new rims for a client of mine this past weekend - they had just arrived in the country and were still sealed in their boxes. In terms of applicators, I used the one of those blocks with a suede applicator for the barrels, but the spokes/faces had such an intricate design, the block was useless. I too tried cutting up a foam applicator pad I usually use on waxes, but it did definitely suck up product, so I landed up literally wrapping a suede applicator around my finger and using that.

Maybe taking a piece of foam applicator and placing that inside a nitrile glove, then wrapping that in suede MF may work?

As for being able to see it flash, I can imagine the struggle on that particular color. I used Gyeon Rim which flashes off very quickly in my environment, so I was able to pretty much apply and buff off high spots immediately.

Oh and just as a side note, I have found that the larger suede applicators seems to work quite well as a glass cleaning towel.
 
I use the foam make up applicator pads for wheels and intricate areas. The GTechniq applicator pads are also great.
 
Airbrush is ideal for wheels. Saves a ton of time and makes even application in intricate areas a breeze. They can be had for cheap at Harbor Freight.

If you don't want to mess with spraying, then simply wrapping a microfiber suede cloth around your (gloved) finger can be a simple and effective way to get into tighter areas by hand.

Is this tool fairly simple to learn how to use for a novice? Is there a sweet spot for tuning the spray pattern so that its not under/over applied?
 
You could always fold your suede applicator like Jeff (Gyeon rep) is showing in his photo. This does work pretty well.

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Is this tool fairly simple to learn how to use for a novice? Is there a sweet spot for tuning the spray pattern so that its not under/over applied?

Very simple... practice with some water to determine the ideal settings to produce a nice flow of product without overdoing it.

It has been a while since I have sprayed wheels, but I believe we were typically around 25 PSI.
 
Airbrush is ideal for wheels. Saves a ton of time and makes even application in intricate areas a breeze. They can be had for cheap at Harbor Freight.

If you don't want to mess with spraying, then simply wrapping a microfiber suede cloth around your (gloved) finger can be a simple and effective way to get into tighter areas by hand.

Very simple... practice with some water to determine the ideal settings to produce a nice flow of product without overdoing it.

It has been a while since I have sprayed wheels, but I believe we were typically around 25 PSI.


As always, Zach hit the head of the nail perfectly. Airbrushing wheels is absolutely amazing once you get used to it. I started practicing with water, then moved to Opti Seal years ago before spraying coatings. Airbrush is also great for honeycomb sale grilles, wheel wells, and many other areas.
 
Very simple... practice with some water to determine the ideal settings to produce a nice flow of product without overdoing it.

It has been a while since I have sprayed wheels, but I believe we were typically around 25 PSI.

Thanks Zach. Is there any issues with a lot of overspray?
 
Thank you all for the input.

The sponge I used aren't quite as dense as the applicators discussed here, but I have a feeling I'd run into the same problems with absorption. My next attempt will probably include wrapping the sponge in a glove or sandwich bag and then encasing that with the suede cloth. Simply folding the suede cloths isn't a bad idea either. I might go to a fabric store to see if they sell the material and I'll cut up larger squares that could be custom sized to my needs.

The paint sprayer is a novel idea, but how does it work when using only a few ml's or product? I think I used abour 7~8ml's total including what was absorbed into the applicator.
 
Thanks Zach. Is there any issues with a lot of overspray?


IMO, yes.

I would suggest spraying them in a different area or bagging off the car. IME coatings don't produce over spray quite like painting, but I have seen overspray on the glass when I was pulling the vehicle out at night. This was on a job where the wheels were off the car, sprayed (DLUX) in the same closed room (25' x 25'), but spraying was away from the vehicle. The surface still felt smooth to the touch but there was a visible film on the glass surface, so I would assume the paint on the car had it as well. I know a few other detailers have started noticing this now too. I know I've seen some people spraying wheels on the car, outdoors, with noticeable wind, so I can only imagine what those cars were like. I've limited my spraying of coatings now and choose to do hand application whenever possible. When spraying is require things are masked off and car is bagged.

My applicators will vary depending on the coating used, but foam, or MF covered foam work well IMO.


Just my $.02
 
IMO, yes.

I would suggest spraying them in a different area or bagging off the car. IME coatings don't produce over spray quite like painting, but I have seen overspray on the glass when I was pulling the vehicle out at night. This was on a job where the wheels were off the car, sprayed (DLUX) in the same closed room (25' x 25'), but spraying was away from the vehicle. The surface still felt smooth to the touch but there was a visible film on the glass surface, so I would assume the paint on the car had it as well. I know a few other detailers have started noticing this now too. I know I've seen some people spraying wheels on the car, outdoors, with noticeable wind, so I can only imagine what those cars were like. I've limited my spraying of coatings now and choose to do hand application whenever possible. When spraying is require things are masked off and car is bagged.

My applicators will vary depending on the coating used, but foam, or MF covered foam work well IMO.


Just my $.02

Great info, thank you.

Luckily the set of wheels on both of our vehicles don't have intricate designs so application of the CQUK with the suede applicator folded up worked good. Some spokes were tight but manageable. I suppose applying by airbrush in those tight areas would make easier/quicker work but overspray would something to consider.
 
Things like foam tip cleaning swabs for inkjet printers work well too.
 
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