What I have, what I need, haven't detailed in a decade!

[h00ligan]

Well that sucks!! It's unused and bought from amazon, so I could send it back :/

You guys really think the pinnacle is that much better? What's wrong with the mother's clay, or maguiar's?

I can't for the life of me remember what I used years ago.. but the consensus really seems to be that pinnacle is that good, So I guess I have to defer to those much more knowledgeable than I. I just don't want to go crazy, we're talking about very mild clay, if any at all is needed.

I'll look into the alternative wash choices. Alright, I added in a bone.
BTW, have a link to the cd/dvd test? I'll google too. Found it, I am going to have to try that with the towels I have now.. I'll probably end up having to buy more mf towels too!

[h00ligan]

Alright, here's what I wound up with so far.. what do you guys think? I'm not in a super hurry to place this order as it's the weekend anyway - waiting for this stuff is going to suck, I want to do it soon!

Dual-Action Hook & Loop Flexible Backing Plate 5" (http://www.autogeek.net/lc43125.html)


Pad 1 : Orange
Pad 2 : White
Pad 3 : White
Pad 4 : Gray
Pad 5 : Gray
Pad 6 : Red

The Grit Guard Insert - 2 Pack (http://www.autogeek.net/grit-guard-2pack.html)

The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave By Cobra 20 x 40 (http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-waffle-weave.html)

Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay (http://www.autogeek.net/ultra-fine-poly-clay.html)

The Bone by Cobra (http://www.autogeek.net/the-bone.html)

DP Gloss Tire Gel (http://www.autogeek.net/dp330.html)

Cobra Tire Dressing Pad (http://www.autogeek.net/td511.html)

Cobra Gold Plush Jr. Microfiber Towel, 16 x 16 inches (http://www.autogeek.net/gold-plush-jr-towel.html) x3

[Rob T]

I'd probably trade one Gray pad for another Orange....at least.

Everyone has their favorite clay products. I prefer Clay Magic.

[h00ligan]

The thing is, right now, I don't need more cutting pads. I have no doubt I will at some point and I can get more then, but we're already at $150, which is beyond what I had budgeted. So I'm trying to do what I can for this treatment, and I'll supplement in the forthcoming months.

What makes you prefer clay magic?

[LegacyGT]

Mothers clay, and other mothers products, are on the very safe side, and not aggressive enough to do serious correction. Don't worry, I started on the same mothers route; there is nothing bad about it. There are times that you need more aggressive results; I just bought some pinnacle poly clay to replace my mothers kit once it runs out.

[h00ligan]

But if the mitt scratches.. that's a no go. I mean, for $9 wasted (if I can't return it), i'd rather not use it.

I'll do my own cd test tomorrow with the various things I have.

[dougaross]

Welcome.

A word of caution on grit guards and buckets. Grit guards do not fit all buckets. Check forum for discussion of compatibility.

[Rob T]

What makes you prefer clay magic?

It just works better for me than the other clay bars that I have tried. I like the texture, and it seems to remove contaminant easier (in fewer passes) than others.

I have not tried the Pinnacle clay though.

[h00ligan]

Welcome.

A word of caution on grit guards and buckets. Grit guards do not fit all buckets. Check forum for discussion of compatibility.

Thanks, I thought they basically fit all five gallon buckets. I'll make sure to do some searching.

@rob t, appreciate it! I think any claying I have to do right now is so minor that most will work.

[Kurt_s]

Welcome. First, no worries... Lots of great suggestions here.

You have a new car. A fine clay bar should be all you need. The Mother's or Meguiar's OTC clay bar kits are reasonably fine.

Don't worry, just use enough lube to let the clay GLIDE over the the paint. After a few tries, you'll get a feel for it. I tend to move my clay linearly, front to back but sometimes I need to be circular to remove "stuck" fallout.

You don't need to rub hard (sometimes you might get tempted), just move smoothly until the "grittiness" goes away. I have a white car and "fallout" tends to be either black dots or brown dots that are actually "rust." Take the time to remove the "dots" with the clay as it is much easier than using a polish.

You will need to fold over the clay to get a new surface. Watch the videos to get a basic feeling. I used Meguiar's clay and split the bar into ~30-40 mg pieces. Since there is only one source of "clay" in the US, the OTC Megs and Mother's should be similar. If you drop the piece of bar on the floor, don't use it on your paint. I have not used the Pinnacle clay bar, but it should be fine too.

Many detail sprays will give you the lubrication needed to make the clay work well and protect your paint. I have used Megs Quick Detail (came in the Meguiar's clay kit), Megs Final Inspection, OG Show Off and now diluted Optimum No Rinse and Shine (ONR). Car wash soaps added to water will also provide appropriate lubrication. Some guys use plain water after washing the car to clay (I still use some type of lubrication for safety but I tend towards safety first).

It's not rocket science, the Mothers' clay will be fine. The nice thing about using ONR as a clay lube, it has multiple uses. I found that the Clay feels very different when you use ONR vs other detail sprays like Megs Quick Detail. Don't worry, you're learning and it all works out well. If you don't use enough lube, the clay tends to stick to the paint (not a good thing).

My needs for pads may be different for you. I own a PCXP and use several different chemicals for compounding and polishing. I also own both newer and older BMWs, and paint is really different between vehicles. Listen to the guys that work on your vehicle"s (and years) paint. I moved to 5.5 flat pads from 6.5" CCS pads over the last few months. For me, life is much better with 5.5" flat pads vs 6.5" CCS pads.

Since I deal with more "older" vehicles that need more "correction," I use more orange pads and can normally get away with 1-2 white pads. I 1 red pad for applying a sealant or wax. I bought 2 6.5" red pads, and only used 1 6.5" pad once. I now use either 4" or 5.5" pads for waxes and sealants. I suggest that you don't use the same pad for both waxes and sealants.

My major recommendation, don't worry too much. Work clean, use the least aggressive process for each step and you will figure it out pretty quickly with guidance from guys like Mike Phillips. You will be amazed how baby butt smooth and shiny you car will be with just a little dedication.

Enjoy!

[h00ligan]

Thanks Kurt, good advice!

[Kurt_s]

Thanks Kurt, good advice!
Pleasure to help!

I learn something new almost every time I log onto the forum and I've been playing with cars for more than a few years. There are a lot of changes in products over the past 10 years, just as automotive paint (and interiors) have changed a bit too.

Just remember, this is supposed to be fun! Reach out and you will get great advice. :)

[jcarson112]

I didn't read through this thread fully but I also have a red GTI and if the dealer did anything like they did with mine... they've filled and hidden swirls and holograms... after the 10 or so washes it's gotten they've REALLY been showing up. Nothing major but its not a perfect finish like I thought I got either.

Def give it a polish... I would say a good AIO should do the trick

[h00ligan]

So I suppose what I'll do is:

Wash, clay, inspect for swirls and if present polish with 3m, klasse aio, klasse sealant, wax

Sound about right?

[h00ligan]

Sorry one more clarification...

Orange pad for 3m

White for aio

Grey for sealant glaze

Red for wax

Don't remove anything with the machine, remove all products by hand (well break down the 3m then remove)

Are those the right pad choices? Since there's overlap, I'm not sure when to use white vs grey.